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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows if red oxide primer will do anything bad to wood?TIA
 

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No. The red is iron oxide (rust) which is not a problem for wood. The only possible problem would come in with the solvents and carriers in the paint and even then I can't think of anything that wood wouldn't like.
 

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i agree with willys. solvent base paints dont have any effect on wood. been finishing cabinetry for years with it and works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, because I am building a snare drum and I am thinking of doing that color on it. Thank You Alll.
 

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Does that stuff work on cars? Everyone is doing the oldschool flat black look, I'm wondering what the red oxide would look like?
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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55ford said:
Awesome, because I am building a snare drum and I am thinking of doing that color on it. Thank You Alll.
Post it here when you get it done. A buddy of mine has made a number of kits check out his site (click here) . I know he has painted a few, in fact, as I remember I painted a set for him come to think of it. It was a blinding indigo blue color.

Why just a snare? Rockabilly are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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can't believe I'm answering this post......

55 Ford, red oxide primer on wood alone will scratch very easy, you need to topcoat it or :
(better!) use red oxide (red mahogany) colored wood stain,
you can mix stain colors (black walnut for darker example) to get the color and shade you want
save all your scrap from building the snare so you can test for results with the stain or primer scratch problem
buy the small can(s), takes about 1/2 oz of stain or primer for a drum
want "flat" finish, top coat with clear and sand with 1,000 grit
 

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red65mustang said:
can't believe I'm answering this post......

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This is getting to be big business, as far as furniture makers using automotive finishes.
For years some have used lacquer and some air dried stains and air dried polyurethane varnish.
Now your seeing house of color and base clear.

I sell two custom builders and here is their procedure.
Coat of epoxy (stop the soaking of primer), 2 coats (sometimes 6-8) of 2k primer (this person blocks her wood straight) and than the color with 3 coats of HS clear. 600 wet the next day and 3 more coats. It is than wet sanded and buffed better than any body shop would do.
$50,000 just for kitchen cabinets (Black) no counter top, no installation, just the cabinets!
My other builder is doing a bar $30,000. He stained the oak and let it set over night and now has 12 coats of polyurethane clear over a four day period wet sanding between applications. Talked to him last week and they have been buffing for two days.
As far as coatings on wood pretend its a car and use same procedure.
Yes automotive clear can be sprayed over the wood stains if they set over night first.
 

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My wife and I are partners in a project to restore a 100 year-old Victorian cottage to a meetings/wedding/restaurant venue. We worked on it full spare time for over a year (what a burden!) but it is a jewel of a show place now. As you might expect the mill-work in the interior is magnificent. It is all paint grade clear vertical grain douglas fir, not a stainable variety so it had to be painted. Rather than using the crappy water based enamels that don't have any gloss and are impossible to lay on smoothly or the oil based ones that never dry and yellow in a year or so, I sprayed automotive single stage catalyzed urethane white. Incredible shine, color retention and will out-live the house.
 

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here is a pic of the interior on one of the boats i used to build. all the woodwork is finished in urethane clear and then wetsanded and buffed. it was actually 3 step process. first coat was a very low solids clear with a dye in it for the color then a transparent polyester primer filler was applied to fill the grain then sanded smooth then a urethane clearcoat and of course the wetsand bufff. looks nice and durable but shows every fingerprint so i think its a little impractical, especially for a boat.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Being wood is not my thing I have a front door that has been sitting in my garage for about five years, maybe this is the way to go?

This door came from my grandfathers house built in 1928. I have pictures of my dad walking thru it on his way to overseas in WWII. I climbed the fence and swiped it off the house before the bulldozer knocked it down.:(

Anyway, I had some repair work done on it and the guy stained it (without me asking) he then promptly quit and I don't know what he put on. Well, I know it wasn't the right stuff for the project because after I coated it with Varathane the Varathane just peeled off like I applied it to wax or something.

I assume I am going to need to take Jasco or something to it and start all over. Anyone have any ideas? After reading some responses here I am thinking strip it, stain it and apply some urethane or polyurethane clear of the automotive variety.
 

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this will be fun

Barry, good point, if you don't seal the wood with epoxy first, do allow atleast a day between coats cause the wood soaks up the solvents like a sponge and drys like a sponge....slow

willys36, bet it looks great, and when you do the exterior trim use a coat of auto urathane clear for UV protection. anytime you use auto paint on wood, leave one side "unsealed", wood has to breath or it will rot

mrclean, try some nu-finish auto polish, less prints and lasts

(side note: want a gorgeous surface on any varnished-stained wood table/chest/etc. use some Mother's on it. got a dull finish, use Maguir's cleaner wax)

martinsr, he stained it then rubbed it with linseed oil, that's why the urathane didn't stick. Do you know what wood the door is made from? There are several methods to re-finish it depending on the wood

I knew I never should have answered this thread.....credentials: learned from my grandad who was a master furniture builder, learned enough to work my way thru college re-finishing yachts!
 

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MARTINSR said:
Being wood is not my thing I have a front door that has been sitting in my garage for about five years, maybe this is the way to go?

This door came from my grandfathers house built in 1928. I have pictures of my dad walking thru it on his way to overseas in WWII. I climbed the fence and swiped it off the house before the bulldozer knocked it down.:(

Anyway, I had some repair work done on it and the guy stained it (without me asking) he then promptly quit and I don't know what he put on. Well, I know it wasn't the right stuff for the project because after I coated it with Varathane the Varathane just peeled off like I applied it to wax or something.

I assume I am going to need to take Jasco or something to it and start all over. Anyone have any ideas? After reading some responses here I am thinking strip it, stain it and apply some urethane or polyurethane clear of the automotive variety.
I bet if you wash a spot with wax and grease remover the clear will stick Worth a try in small spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank You All Soooooo Much, right now the drum has 2 thin coats of primer on it and a thicker coat of khaki spray paint and a coat of glow in the dark paint too, because I wanted it to glow in the dark, but I don't now, so what I was wondering is, pep boys has a spray can of the red oxide primer for like 3 bucks by valspar, and could I spray the drum with that then put a satin clear coat on, because I don't want woodgrain showing and I want it flat. Thank You Again All.
 
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