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Frame Reinforcing Options

  • Forget the k-member - use a tubular drop crossmember

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Replace k-member only - no removable center

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Replace the k-member only - removable center for tranny changes

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • K-member with rearward struts - no removable center

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • K-member with rearward struts - removable center

    Votes: 1 50.0%
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Will I ever get it done?
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 41 Chevy frame has some rust through on the K-member. I have looked at a lot of ways to fix this, and just when I think I have made up my mind, I see it done another way and begin to wonder. So, I thought I would check to see what you think. I was going to replace the k-member with 2x3 .120 wall and add struts of the same going back to just in front of the front spring mounts on the rear. Making the crossmember solid forces me to pull the engine in order to get the automatic transmission out if I should ever need to. But I am afraid that splitting it with a bolt in transmission mount will negate the rigidity. If you have any experience, photos would be appreciated of what you have done.
 

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When I did my pro-street 41 I used a removable reverse "K" member made by Butch's Rod Shop. Butch retired and sold off everything so I don't think it's available anymore but you could easily make your own if you have a welder.

Your frame is a very strong "Top Hat" design and a bolt in crossmember will work just fine. Butch's "K" member was made out of 1'x2" square tubing welded to a square plate that bolts to the bottom of the frame at the outside and inside lips. It also had struts that bolt to the top of the frame and the crossmember for a little extra support.

Unfortunately I don't have a pic of that crossmember but here's a pic of the one I made for my hemi powered '53 Chevy pickup. It's made along the same lines except it's not a "K" member just a simple crossmember. Note the supports that bolt to the the top extending from the top of the frame. This whole thing is made out of 1"x3" square tubing and the entire crossmember just unbolts if the trans needs to be removed. It's held in place with 2 grade 8 bolts on each side. The supports and the trans mounting pad are made from 3/16" steel.



Centerline
 

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Will I ever get it done?
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Good looking frame.

Not very many votes. I was hoping for lots of opinions.
 
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