Hot Rod Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have seen a pinion bearing made for several different rear axels that is removable without a press. This would be nice if it was a good piece and was quality. I am doing the job myself without a press and this would be very helpful. If any of you have experience with something like this give me your opinion on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,928 Posts
The only pinion bearings that I have seen that just slide on and off are for determining shim thickness when setting up a ring and pinion. They are not meant to be used in a normal application. Those bearings have the inside diameter honed so that they will slide on and off the pinion so it is easier to change the pinion depth shim.

Vince
 

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
OK so there not real bearings. Guess I didn't look close enought. This would still be helpfull. Do you think that I could use an old bearing and some how use that in the same fashon. Just a thought.

Also where did you see these mock up bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,928 Posts
They are REAL bearings, they have just had their inside diameters honed out. I have seen them in Jegs catalog and Currie Enterprises has them in their installation kit. No, you cannot use the old bearings for establishing pinion depth. They have worn and the differances in clearance vs a new bearing is too great. Sadly there is no easy method to set pinion depth. The setup bearings make it a simpler process however.

Vince
 

·
Hotrodders.com Moderator
Joined
·
2,783 Posts
bearings

NovaSS350 said:
OK so there not real bearings. Guess I didn't look close enought. This would still be helpfull. Do you think that I could use an old bearing and some how use that in the same fashon. Just a thought.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you took the old bearing and race as a assembly and checked the overall thickness and compaired it to the new assembly and it was within .001 or so you could use the old bearing for set-up. But you will still need to hone the bore so it slides over the pinion. Till you go through all this you might as well buy the altered bearing. Unless you have access to a hone and can re-size it your self...But to answer the question, yes the old assembly will work if the thickness is the same.

Keith
 

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well I already have the kit and didn't get this altered bearing. I need it! I can't find it anywhere I looked at summit, jegs and the parts house I work at and couldn't find it anywere. If anyone can tell me were to get one it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The relocated shims is an interesting idea but do they work. Anybody ever used them or have any experience with them. That could make the job alot easyer.
 

·
Hotrodders.com Moderator
Joined
·
2,783 Posts
pinion shims

Vince, I thought the same thing!!! I just took a 12 bolt apart that another shop set-up and it had the shim under the outer race... The idea behind it will work but what is being overlooked is you still need to beat the race in and out of the housing to change the shims... I would rather take the bearing off of the pinion then remove the race from the housing, but thats just me.

novass350,

One thing that is common practice with people that set-up R&P is to polish the pinion some what the bearing fits on to it so the bearing can be removed. Even just removing the black oxide coating will help. Use some anti-seize on the pinion and the bearing will come off and go one with very little hassels....

Keith
 

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Alright because the thing holding me back is the fact that I don't have a press. Could polishing the shaft down enough eliminate the need for a press.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,805 Posts
the bearing MUST have a press fit on the pinion gear.

You can heat the bearing to slide it on , too much heat and the bearing is junk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
977 Posts
You can soak the pinion gear in a metal bucket half full of solvent and dry ice and pre heat the bearing in an oven set to 250 degrees. Sometimes this is enough to allow the bearing to be taped on with a brass drift but this doesn't always work. Often it will still need to be pressed. If you need to change shims you will still need to have a press. I've seen hydrualic bearing pullers that will work but a 12 to 20 ton press can be bought cheaper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
505 Posts
Get a press. Buying is cheaper then building but building your own is more satisfying and you'll likely have a better press.

When I was a 12 yr old boy, my Dad told me "son, if you aint got your own press, you might as well go out back, dig a hole, and hop in.

He went on to say that "there are two things a man over 12 needs. "One is a press and the other is a vesectomy". Unfortunately, I didn't know what a vesectomy was so I just went and built a press. Still have it and still use it when the kids get outta the way long enough for me to get in there and get at it.
 

·
Hotrodders.com Moderator
Joined
·
2,783 Posts
bearings

Like the others have stated you will still need a pressed fit. I guess i didn't explane my self well in the other reply. Sorry,, What i have found works for me, I have never had any problems doing this. I will polish the pinion stem untill i get a -.0002" to a metal to metal fit with the bearing race. Most of the time a new bearing and a new pinion with the black oxide coating will be closer to a - .0005" or tighter fit. This is not a real big problem with a press but i didn't used to have one when i started doing ring and pinions.. Also many people will not use anti -seize when pressing on a new bearing and that can lead to problems trying to get it off if needed.

There is a tool called a bearing splitter. It fits around the bearing and tightens up with 2 studs and nut. Then it has holes in it to use ready rod and a standard gear puller. This is what i used before i had a press. It works on the same idea as a press but you need to supply the muscle..... They are not overly costly unless you get a snap-on or other tool truck typ.

Sorry for not being clearer.....

Keith
 

·
I dun learned sumthin
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Alright well this is pretty informative. My situation is that I am seeing if I can do a ring and pinion swap myself. I would really like to so that I know how to do it. But being that I don't have a press or a pinion depth tool it might be better right now to have some one do it. I just hate to let others do my work but I guess sometime you just have to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
That being the case why don't you just use the relocated shims? To me it would beat having to pay someone to do the entire setup of the gears. You will have to pound out the outter race from the housing a few (or more) times...but I don't see how that would be such a huge deal and it sure would beat paying for the install. The brass rod is your friend:thumbup:

You could then try the dry ice/oven approach to putting on the inner race and if that doesn't work you can just take it to a shop to have them press it on.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top