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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen plenty of threads on how to install door skins, but how do you save the one you're taking off? Everyone seems to suggest grinding the edge off to remove the lip, but I have to reuse the skin. It's for a Pinto so there are no available replacement skins, and it's the door frame I need to repair for the most part. The bottom edge of the frame started to rot and a little of the lip on the skin.

Is there a way I can peel the lip up to remove the skin?

Or am I going to have to cut it off? And if I have to cut it, how do I reattach it? Welding a new lip on seems like a pretty big amount of work, not to mention the possibility of warping the metal.
 

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put up or shut up
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try to peel up the bottom and fix it without taking off the skin. I'd try to peel it back just on the bottom around where you'll be fixing it and have a look to see if it will be possible to fix it that way, if not then plan on the bigger repair. Seems like a
2x4 clamped to the top surface would help while peeling the flange up so the skin doesn't distort. You can also just cut away the flange and fabricate a piece that looks like the flange and reweld it back on after the door frame is fixed. I dunno... just shooting around idears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I don't remove it, I'll have to peel the skin back and distort it to be able to weld the inner frame. I figure I'll just deskin the door and have the frame sandblasted (then epoxy it) while I'm at it. I have a couple other spots to fix on the door skin which would be easier with it off. A ******* shoved bolts in the seam and ran weld over it to keep the doors shut for a circle track. The door I needed was the only straight panel on the car.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Instead of removing the skin to repair the door shell, why don't you remove the area on the door shell to repair and weld it back in leaving the skin intact?

Post a photo of the damage and lets see if this can be done.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can't get one tonight, but it seems easiest to remove the skin. I'll try to get one tomorrow when I'm at the shoip. It's mainly the bottom edge of the frame where it touches the skin, and if I weld it with the skin touching then the weld will penetrate to the skin.
 

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door skin tool

I copied a door skin too years a go, and haven't seen it since I've moved twice. I forget where i saw it being used. I started with a steel block, I think about 1 X 1 by 2 in long, I cut a slot 3./4 deep length wise just wide enough to slip over a door edge . I rounded the edges by slipping the slot carefully over the back side of my 6 X 48 belt sander and carefully deburring the edges. I drilled a couple 1/2 in holes to intersect the slot. Then I cut 1/4 and 3/16 slots 90* to the long slot. The next part is to take a couple old screwdriver, that fits the short slot, sharpen the end then heat it up and bend it to 90*. You slip the tool over the door edge , then hook the screwdriver blade edge on the edge and pry back, that lifts the edge of the skin, work along the door to bring the edge up. That tool would work where the tile nippers wouldn't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·




Here's what I've got to fix.

When I closed my bodyshop back in the late 80's I threw away a brand new drivers door for a pinto. Still kicking my butt. Really should have saved it.
Shame to have thrown it away because I'll guarantee there's someone out there who could use it. My driver's side door needs minimal work luckily, the right one on the car is rotted pretty bad however (with almost no rust on the surrounding body). This one is a lot cleaner than the one on the car.

I copied a door skin too years a go, and haven't seen it since I've moved twice. I forget where i saw it being used. I started with a steel block, I think about 1 X 1 by 2 in long, I cut a slot 3./4 deep length wise just wide enough to slip over a door edge . I rounded the edges by slipping the slot carefully over the back side of my 6 X 48 belt sander and carefully deburring the edges. I drilled a couple 1/2 in holes to intersect the slot. Then I cut 1/4 and 3/16 slots 90* to the long slot. The next part is to take a couple old screwdriver, that fits the short slot, sharpen the end then heat it up and bend it to 90*. You slip the tool over the door edge , then hook the screwdriver blade edge on the edge and pry back, that lifts the edge of the skin, work along the door to bring the edge up. That tool would work where the tile nippers wouldn't fit.
I'm having trouble trying to picture this, any chance you can take a photo of the tool? It sounds like it might be more suitable with the little amount of room I have.

This one that John long linked to seems like it might not fit, but I could probably make one that would work in the tight space I have.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=66130&d=1339970760
 

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put up or shut up
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that's totally a good candidate for a lower skin job or to just peel it back where needed. Peeling back the whole door is a lot of work. If you have a metal brake you're in business. the rest of the door inside is probably still good and if you see anything above the bottom of the door it's probably superficial and just on the surface due to gravity and water that will rest on the bottom of the door as opposed to settling on the side of the door above the bottom.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Or cut the sections of the shell out as I originally suggested. There is absolutely no reason to remove that skin if you can't get a replacement. Just cut the shell, remove it out from under the skin and fab a new piece and sand blast and repair the skin right at that spot only.

Brian
 

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put up or shut up
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in other words, fabricate the flange on the backside of the door where needed?
The other day I did a lower door skin that I fabricated and on the other side I did just that...cut a chunk of the flange out, replaced a piece on the inners and welded a piece back to look like the flange. I also didn't cut it all the way at the bottom cause the metal was ok there so I didn't have to file it down or worry about it changing the gap to the rocker. Saved soo much time doing it that way. Good call.

Funny, I'm actually editing a video on the lower door skin and left out the footage of the repair of the flange being cut out on the other side but after this thread I will probably go back and insert it into the video.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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in other words, fabricate the flange on the backside of the door where needed?
The other day I did a lower door skin that I fabricated and on the other side I did just that...cut a chunk of the flange out, replaced a piece on the inners and welded a piece back to look like the flange. I also didn't cut it all the way at the bottom cause the metal was ok there so I didn't have to file it down or worry about it changing the gap to the rocker. Saved soo much time doing it that way. Good call.

Funny, I'm actually editing a video on the lower door skin and left out the footage of the repair of the flange being cut out on the other side but after this thread I will probably go back and insert it into the video.
Yep that is what I am saying, cut that rusted area out with a cut off disc. Run the cut straight down thru the folded lip of the skin but not the outside. Lift the fold a little so you can pull the cut piece out, and to clean the inside of the area for repair. That lip may even need to be completely cut out, cut it out by running a cut along the edge just on the inside of the fold.

Fab the new inner piece, weld it in then cut a small strip of metal to replace the piece of the folded lip of the skin.

Brian
 

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Tool location.

We are at the Farm near Yellowstone for the summer, I Don't know if the tool is still in the body tool box, It was slow to use, but worked where there was limited space. The Big shop is 500 miles south, and I should have some time this comming winter to start on the Car projects. Last winter we rebuilt the south 100 year old farmhouse. New Roof, windows, more insulation Cabinets, tile and hardwood floors wiring plumbing.
 

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put up or shut up
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Yep that is what I am saying, cut that rusted area out with a cut off disc. Run the cut straight down thru the folded lip of the skin but not the outside. Lift the fold a little so you can pull the cut piece out, and to clean the inside of the area for repair. That lip may even need to be completely cut out, cut it out by running a cut along the edge just on the inside of the fold.

Fab the new inner piece, weld it in then cut a small strip of metal to replace the piece of the folded lip of the skin.

Brian
yeah, that's good advice, Brian.

Here's a pic of that repair. The piece replaced on the inner structure was just a small piece. I got lucky by being able to keep the bottom edge but it looks like this fella will at least have a small area where he'll have to weld it on the very bottom of the flange, but doesn't look so bad. Using a file to get your edge straight and a finer one to clean it up works very good for that sort of stuff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That does seem like a much easier idea. If I do it right, I shouldn't have to do it again for a long time so it wouldn't matter if the welds on the lip penetrated through to the frame. Chances are they would.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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That is exactly what I was talking about Henry, you were ready with a photo. :)

Brian
 
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