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THE BEST WAY TO GET THE CHROME OFF IS TO TAKE IT TO A CHROME SHOP AND HAVE THEM PUT THE PART IN THE TANK AND USE THE "REVERSE POLARITY" PROCEDURE. IT IS THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE CHROMIUM PLATING OFF AND NOT REMOVE ANY MATERIAL FROM YOUR PARTS. THEY SHOULD KNOW WHAT'S UP WITH THE KIND OF METAL, ETC. IF YOU GO WITH AN ACID DIP, YOU WILL LIKELY NOT HAVE ANY PARTS LEFT AS TO THE MANY EMBLEMS. A LOT OF EMBLEMS ARE MADE OF "ZINC DIE CAST" THAT'S A FANCY WORD FOR THE "TOP OF THE BARREL JUNK" AN EXPLANATION IS AS FOLLOWS---WHEN METAL IS BEING FORMED AT THE SMELTER, PREMIUM QUALITY STEEL IS AT THE BOTTOM AND AS YOU MOVE UP THE QUALITY GETS WORSE. ZINC DIE CAST IS THE CRAP AT THE VERY TOP. THAT IS WHY THEY MAKE EMBLEMS AND ALL KIND OF CHEAP THINGS OUT OF IT. YOU WILL NOTICE THIS ON A LOT OF AUTO/BOAT AND MOTORCYCLE EMBLEMS. WHEN YOU SEE THE CORROSION APPEARING AS BLISTERS AND LUMPS, IT IS COMING FROM WITHIN THE PART. A CHROME SHOP CAN EXPLAIN THIS TO YOU POSSIBLY A LITTLE BIT BETTER. IF YOU PUT DIE CAST IN A CAUSTIC ACID STRONG ENOUGH TO REMOVE CHROME,,, WHEN YOU PULL THE COAT HANGAR/WIRE OUT OF THE VAT, YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY EMBLEM LEFT. IT WILL SIMPLY DISSOLVE/MELT IT. I HAVE ABOUT 20 PLUS YEARS RESTORING ANTIQUE HARLEY DAVIDSONS AND HAVE HAD A LOT OF PRECIOUS AND DAMN HARD TO FIND PARTS RE-CHROMED. I DON'T GET ON HERE VERY MUCH. MY E-MAIL IS "[email protected]"
 
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