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If it’s the stock trans then you need to remove the seat and unbolt the tunnel hump.
shifter needs removed. IIRC you push the stick down into the trans and turn it 90 degrees to the left.
Use an engine crane extended into the cab to hold/lift the trans and unbolt the trans from the bellhousing. top Two bolts easy to see, bottom 2 are in the bellhousing. Need to remove inspection plate for bolt access.
slide trans back and down to floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If it’s the stock trans then you need to remove the seat and unbolt the tunnel hump.
shifter needs removed. IIRC you push the stick down into the trans and turn it 90 degrees to the left.
Use an engine crane extended into the cab to hold/lift the trans and unbolt the trans from the bellhousing. top Two bolts easy to see, bottom 2 are in the bellhousing. Need to remove inspection plate for bolt access.
slide trans back and down to floor.
I have it unbolted with a trans jack under just could not get it to come down because it's hitting up there and yes I did remove the shifter so as I expected I have to remove carpet and seat to remove tunnel hump?
 

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Some are!
I’ve done the 3 speed bench press many times. Cast iron 100 lb ones were always extra grunt.
needing to remove seat and hump is preferred method. Hackers just cut more room in the hump. Seen that many times.
 

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I always pull the sm465 with the motor. That thing is very compact and can easily be pulled out with the engine.
It makes things much easier then having that fat girl sitting over you while laying under the truck.
Once out I seperate the two setting the motor on motor stand feet then use a pallet or floor jack to slide them apart.

It allows you to catch things like that spongy fuel line or leaking oil seal. The worst part is having to reinstall exhaust gaskets which is why I try to put V band clamps on everything.

Removing the fan and distributior cap often allows enough angle. A piece of plywood will protect the radiatior.
 

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Well unfortunately I had enough today the dang pilot bearing does not want to come out
You'll be surprised by this, but it really works....pack the cavity with bread..yes, good old white or wheat bread or a burger bun, .....and drive a close fitting dowel or rod into it....the bread will compress and hydraulic and push the bearing out....with a lot less mess than doing it with axle grease.

Or thread the ID with a 5/8-11 TPI tap and used a bolt to jack screw it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You'll be surprised by this, but it really works....pack the cavity with bread..yes, good old white or wheat bread or a burger bun, .....and drive a close fitting dowel or rod into it....the bread will compress and hydraulic and push the bearing out....with a lot less mess than doing it with axle grease.
J
Or thread the ID with a 5/8-11 TPI tap and used a bolt to jack screw it out.
Tried the bread and grease andit ain't giving . I like your other waythread the ID with a 5/8-11 TPI tap and used a bolt to jack screw it out. Try it later tonight or tomorrow
 

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Bread trick works. Make sure your using something just smaller then the bearing hole to push the bread in.
Simple hydraulics the force has to go somewhere and it will force the bearing out once enough bread is stuffed in.
 

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I took an SM420 out of a donor truck at the junk yard years back. The seat was already out, just unbolted it and we used a fork lift and a chain to get it up and out. At home we took the stick off it and put it in from the bottom.
 
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