[fstrthnu]

i have some spots that I have to rebase and reclear from wet sanding. I plan on shooting just the areas I need to with the base and then shooting the whole car again with the clear. my question is what grit sanpaper do I use for the areas for base and what for the rest of the car? My local jobber said to use a red scotchbright pad but that sounded kind of rough to me. What do you guys think. I am using ppg shop line. Thanks

 

[Rambo_The_Dog]

i have some spots that I have to rebase and reclear from wet sanding. I plan on shooting just the areas I need to with the base and then shooting the whole car again with the clear. my question is what grit sanpaper do I use for the areas for base and what for the rest of the car? My local jobber said to use a red scotchbright pad but that sounded kind of rough to me. What do you guys think. I am using ppg shop line. Thanks

Did you just break the clear wet sanding or did you break through the color/primer/metal and have to reprimer any bare metal areas?

 

[fstrthnu]

no, just through the base

 

[fstrthnu]

Anyone !!!

 

[Rambo_The_Dog]

no, just through the base

I would use 400 wet and take the extra time with a rubber block and lightly block the entire car on the flat panels.

This way you would remove a bit more of the clear (careful not to go through again) on the entire car before shooting the color and the clearcoating again.

This will also lessen the chance of excessive clear build-up and make you entire job turn out much better.

600 would also work if you are at all worried about the amount of clear in the first paint job - it'll just take longer.

Better to also wet sand the car and let it sit "open" for a week at least to let all the solvents escape from the first paint job.