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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #21
I am slow on my updates lately. I have almost finished my rear center panel rebuild/replacement. Getting the center panel out was fun. It was riveted and bolted together in the rear. The bolts being rusted and such were very cooperative when removing them. (NOT).

The damage was extensive with the left and right braces eaten off on the ends and extensive rust all along the length. The center post was gone from the tab that mounts it to the cross member to the end, The top portion was in pretty good condition. Main cross member was just a loosely arranged bunch of rust. The ends of the sub frame that the cross member was attached to were also just so much dust and chips.

I built the 2 vertical side pieces from scratch using some of my left over box tube. Not as pretty as I wanted but the fit is exactly like the stock pieces and even looks original.

The center brace was absent it's lower portion and so I trimmed all the damaged material from the last 2 inches and replaced it with new steel. I used a piece of square tubing on the back side to to replace the spine portion of the brace. The top cross portion of the center piece was fairly solid but I added some 3/4 wide strips across the top to give some more support.

A lot of fitting and refitting and I have the framework attached to the rear cross member. I have had the skin on and off a couple of times and right now I am getting ready to put the skin on for the last time.

Because all of this steel is new and is in a location that lends itself to rust in a big way. I wanted to give it some extra protection.

I decided to try some spray on bed liner on the center panel skeleton and on the sheet metal skin all along the lower part the center and ends that set in the rain channel. My theory is the bed-liner will keep the steel all nice and cozy for years to come against dirt and dust and water.. I am at the point where when everything cures I will fit it one more time and then attach the skin for good. Then on to the the quarter panel ends and then the focus shifts back to the frame to finish all the cross members. and hang the suspension so I can finally get the thing off the frame rack.

OK, that wraps up the progress up to today. I am feeling a case of summer fever coming on so may take a few days and just coast maybe a nice road trip.
Till Next time.....
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #22
Hey T coupe,

Yeah I got to admit I enjoyed doing this. it allowed me to work a little out of the box by recreating the replacement parts.

Once I get the center panel finished, marked, measured and such then I can do the quarter ends. I want to make sure things fit so when I open up the quarters and pull the rain channel loose I know how things are supposed to fit. After removing some rivets and manipulating the rain channels away from the quarters so I can replace the corners. According to theory if I am careful I will get it to fit all Back just like new.... Right?????

I have I think 2 holes in the quarters that will need fixed and I think I am going to use a technique my Grandfather taught me years ago and that was to use Lead to fill and repair holes. Oh I hear them now... Not lead they say.. Poison and all. Oh no call the EPA..

Yes I use lead from time to time because it is so mice to work and easy to apply. You can get it to look so good no mud is necessary except a very light skim coat if even that.. I love to solder and braze and I love working with easy to work materials. I have done quite a few Harley Davidson fender repairs and some custom work and have used lead a lot. There used to be a spot on the FL Harley rear fenders everyone wanted filled or messed with. and the spot was just slightly larger than a penny I would take an old copper penny clean it real good and solder the penny over the hole to plug it. Then lead in over the top and poof another fender hole made to disappear.

OK, off to dreamland for the evening :cool:
 

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Rip,
You have a typical '26/27 T. You have the "New improved model" with the metal around the rear windows, instead of the wood, but they quit using the four bolt spare tire mount in '26, and went to a three bolt hole mount. He did it to save the cost of one bolt & nut. Mine is a three bolt mount, and wood around the rear windows. But they also used parts till they were gone, so it could be the reason why.

Fords bad idea was for the rain gutters to just dump the rain water into the rear behind the sub-frame on the coupes, that is why they are all rusted out back there.

His other bad idea was to put the brake in the tranny, to stop the drive train, through the drive shaft, to the rear end, through the axles, to the skinny tires. Everyone knows what happens when you go down the road, and pull the E-brakes.

Your car is looking good.

Have a good day. Pat
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #24
Today I have done something I have never done before and that is weld on a body panel and metal finish it.
Some will remember my problems in the welding thread about MiG welding thin sheet metal. I found I was having machine problems. That fixed, I jumped into replacing the Right rear quarter panel corner.

I cut the bad metal out using the new corner as a template. I then took a 1" strip of sheet metal and spot welded ( With my handy Harbor Fright spot welder) it to the top inside edge of my replacement panel and slipped the sheet metal under the T quarter. Then I butted my new panel up as tight as I could and spot welded the strip in place.
Next step was to spot stitch with the MiG. I would do about 5 spots then hit the panel with air. I kept the temperature of the panel to room temp and it turned out pretty damn good for a beginner. I did learn Mig welds are harder than heck to hammer down. A lot of stitching, hammering, and grinding and it is almost complete. I may draw file it a little more but for now I am going to jump on the other side before I forget how I did this. Just a couple a pics today a before, during, and after.
 

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Rip,
Looks good! I have been having problems lately with my mig welding good also. Some days I couldn't ask for better welds, and then some it won't weld worth a crap! I've replaced the liner, ground clamp, put a cleaner on it, one day I welded the ground clamp to the metal, because it act's like a bad ground! Arrrr! I have to go buy some new contact tips, and .023 wire. What was wrong with your welder?

I was cleaning off some bad weld, on a part in the vise, and I caught my thumb with my 4 1/2" grinder, oooooh :pain: did that hurt, I jumped up & down for a bit, then raped kleenex on it, and raped some tape on it, and continued to grind. Damn, that's going to leave a mark.

They do sell a softer wire, that hammers down better, so day before I finish welding on the body, I might get some. LOL

I separated the upper parts of the quarters above the belt line, Wow was there a lot of surface rust under there! I cleaned it up, and it was good and solid under it. Glad I did it, even if it's a pain in the butt to do, I'm going to coat it with Rust seal. I know now the rust won't bleed down, after painting it.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks for the compliment there Pat. I will say I was surprised it turned out as good as it did. Yep if you haven't drawn blood yet you are destined to loose some. I cut the web of my hand yesterday playing with that sheet metal. I try to always remember your playing with razor blades but even I slip once in a while. The upside is I am helping the economy by having to buy Hydrogen Peroxide in the large volume drums..
 

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Rip,
When I went into the house after a hour or so the wife spotted the tap, and asked "What did you do this time." She made me wash it out, and then put peroxide on it (we also have several bottles of it), I told her she just like to see me in pain, she just smiled. And back to working after she got done. The burning from the grinder,. hurts much more then the cut it's self.

Pat
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #28
I know what you mean about the other half. I am bald on top and the skin is getting real thin. It seems I have a propensity for bumping my head and now "The War Dept" is threatening to make me wear a helmet out in the shop! After this latest gash on my hand she now wants to wrap me in a layer of Bubble wrap. I said only if the bubble wrap is aluminized so I can make myself a AFDB. (aluminum foil deflector beanie):mwink:
 

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Hot Rods are Built, not Bought
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That panel weld looks great. I am a bit surprised you didn't have a lot of pinholes though. Cleanliness is godliness when it comes to TIG and MIG. I'd suggest getting the steel cleaned adjacent to the proposed weld location of all rust, paint, oils, etc. before welding. I think you will find things will progress much easier.

Hope that helps.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #30
I was really surprised that it turned out so well. The picture above was of fitting the panel. then I very carefully cleaned the quarter where the panel fit. It was nice and clean and shinny both the front and back. I had to do the sanding initially by hand as a power tool would remove to much metal and make the panel too thin.

My earlier practice on the bench showed me that hitting it even lightly with a power grinder or power sander just removed to much metal. I cleaned the metal all by hand being extremely careful not to remove metal...:sweat:
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #31
A little more progress has been Had. I have the left rear corner in place and welded initially. I need to grind down the excess but this side was even easier than the first. (Bit of a learning curve). I had finished rebuilding the center panel about a week or so ago and so after welding in this last corner patch I went ahead and put the center panel in place to check fit and alignment. I am pleased but I see I am going to have to work the T strip a little bit I did not see it was bent slightly. All in all I like how it is coming along.

I had to finish the corners and get the center panel finished so I can position the body and get ready to fit the body replacement Sub Rails. I wanted to have the structure of the rear completed so when I fit the Sub Rails I would have accurate dimensions for the rear body mounts. there is no room for error with the sub rails because they will be 1/8" away from the frame itself and they follow the curve of the frame up and over.

With this part of the body ready I have all the rest of the dimensions I need to finish up the chassis to roller status.

Next step is to remove the body and get serious with the frame. Cross members and mounts.

Progress is slow but steady...

Pictures show before and after. Remember nothing is completely finished yet.
 

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Rip,
Looks good!

Are you going to pull the T strips out to clean under them? On mine, I'm glad I did. I wouldn't have found the bad area under T strip, at the belt line. Which caused me the split both sides belt lines apart.

You got ahead of me. lol

I have not been working on mine, I have outside house, and yard stuff to get done (honey do list), replacing fascia boards, and rain gutters (in the rain no less).

I have parts soaking in molasses. I was suppose to clean them a few days ago, but oh well, looks like tomorrow I will. Then put the rust sealer where needed, then I can put every thing back on also, so that I can finish my sub-frame, and tub it.

I see the dents in your quarter. Mine were just as bad on both sides, but someone bondo over them without trying to knock them out at all. I stripped about a 1/2 - 3/4 gallon of mud off my quarters (and they are small quarters), top and bottom. The body is mostly smooth underneath, I don't understand why he put such a thick layer over everything. I have hammered them out, and I just got a metal shrinking disc, and about ready to tackle some stretched areas, the body is completely down to bare metal now, waiting for epoxy primer.

Then back to the frame.

Keep up the good work!

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I agonized over the T Strip decision. I wanted to believe in my mind that it was going to be good enough that there was no hidden damage. I still believe there is no damage but there is enough surface rust between the seams and under the T strip it demands that I take it apart!!!! Damn can of worms..

I have been mulling this over in my head. It looks like a straight forward job but with the surprises I have already had I am not holding my breath. The body is coming off the frame next week and going to my large flat table. There I will get everything square and see where I stand. After I verify it will set plumb I think I will blow it open at the belt line and the T strip so I can clean the metal and prep it and shoot a good cover coat of paint on the seams then put it back together.

Doing it that way I will save pain and agony later. See I talked myself into it. ha ha Taking the body apart on the flat table will be the best plan on moving forward with the body. I can keep it plumb and level all the way around.
Hey Pat, Speaking of tearing it apart at the belt line, I haven’t even given it more than a cursory glance but is the belt line made the same way as the T strips? What holds it in place?
Well enough for this weekend. I think I am going fishing tomorrow!!!
 

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Rip,
Going fishing! I haven't done that in years. We have two ponds on our land, one leaks dry, which is a easy fix, the other I'm going to have stocked. It has catfish, and 2 large koi's in it. I want to put some bass, and blue gills in it also. They say after a couple years I can fish them.

To remove the T strips, you'll need to remove the back window panel, then drill out the rivets along the strips, it still won't come out. You will need to find the spot welds along it, and drill through them. The rain gutters are on the back side of the quarters, and the T strips are on the front side of the quarters. I believe you'll find more surface rust then you want to think there is. I cleaned mine up, and going to put my rust seal on the edge to stop future rust from starting.

I bought the rivets, and I'm going to re-rivet it all back together, It' easy to do, and holds tight.

To split the belt line, you'll need to remove the insert on the door jam of the "B" pillar. I heated the nut inserts from the back side with a propane torch, and the screws came right out. You'll need to split three spot welds on the back panel edge, and a spot weld on the inside of the brace that goes there to the sub-frame. You will need to split all the spot welds around the top, and front of the quarter window. I I drilled them then I used a air chisel, and it went quick. Then you'll have to remove the bolts along the bottom edge, then you'll have to work the top lip off the roof framing, and work it to the front "B" pillar, which is folded over also. Don't pull outward top hard, you might bend the outside edge a little, trust me, I did, but it's a easy fix. You'll find a bunch of heavy surface rust under the belt line.

It goes back on a LOT easier then it comes off. I'm glad I did mine, I know it would have been a problem down the road. I through the top panels into my molasses tank, and they have been soaking for almost two weeks. I just have not had the time to remove them, and clean them off.

Good luck.

Pat
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Does it have to be riveted or can you bolt it?

I'm sorry if I miss something I haven't kept up with your thread here, do you plan on epoxy priming all your stuff before you reassemble, because that is what you should do.

Brian
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #36
Brian,

The riveting back of the T Strips won't be a problem. I have many years riveting experience on aircraft. I also have a 3X gun and a variety of bucking bars. I really do think a person could just bolt it together if they were so inclined. Maybe even use recessed head screws.

I am glad you stepped in Brian, as I was going to ask you what type of primer I should I use on this to be compatible with a Base-Clear system? What do you recommend product wise?

Fishing was good this morning, I caught 3 good pan trout.
 

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Rip,
3trout, Umm. I love eating fish, the wife, not so much!

You cam screw it back together, I have been putting on, and taking off the parts with 10/32 screws, you wouldn't have to use recessed screws, the rivet heads on the outside are round heads. You would have to drill each hole bigger if you wanted to use bigger bolts, the holes are only for 3/16 rivets, I think about .210 dia hole. When I am done screwing around, and ready to install them for the last time, I will rivet them. For the size they will be stronger, and tight, and look clean. I also have other parts that were riveted, that I have taken a part, that I have to rivet back together. in fact, I have to install about 55-60 rivets!

I had to change the dash mounts ( see pictures) when I changed my cowl, they get riveted in. The round head in back, and counter sunk in the door jam.

I am coating the seams, and rain gutters with the rust seal, and then epoxy primer on everything. I have everything down to bare metal.

Oh, I didn't get the parts cleaned today either, I had to mow.

Pat
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #38
Hey Pat? Do you have any detail pictures of the bottom of the B pillar? I know I have a problem with the drivers B pillar where it attaches to the sub rail and would like to see how it is supposed to be.

Thanks
 

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Rip,
I am going outside to mow in a little while, it takes me 4 1/2 hrs, good thing I started yesterday, after I get done, I'll take some pictures of the "B" pillar mounting. I have the insert off, so it will show the insides. I'll post them later for ya. If you need any other pictures, just ask, mine is apart to the point, I can show just about anything on it.

I don't know if I asked you this before, Do you have the spare tire mount, the part that bolts to the body, and are you going to use it?

Pat
 

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Rip,
I got you some pictures of the passengers side. It's hard to see the rivets that hold it to the sub-frame, in the pictures. The little tubes you see are around the screws, are spacers (they slip off), that hold the insert out flush to the "B" pillar. There are some washers over some of them to shim them in spots also.

I actually got my parts cleaned. I started to mow, and it started to rain, so I started to clean my parts, and it stopped raining, and the sun came out. I pressure washed them, and they sure turned out clean. That molasses does work good.

Pat
 

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