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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #62
Loose Ctrl,

Ah you have a good eye there. Actually they are Old Weld 30 Spoke wheels. They are real dusty right now but I do like the look.

I had to buy new lug nuts to mount the wheels, Had to go to 3 different auto parts stores. All they had were "Metric" nuts, what is this world coming to. I finally found them at O'rileys Then of course they sell the lugs in 4 packs. That way if you only need 1 wheel you have to buy 2 packs. And have 3 lugs left. Well I needed all 20 lugs So I purchased 5 packs. I will order me up some locks later. It's Damn highway robbery I say.
 

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Down in flames.
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Loose Ctrl,

Ah you have a good eye there. Actually they are Old Weld 30 Spoke wheels. They are real dusty right now but I do like the look.

I had to buy new lug nuts to mount the wheels, Had to go to 3 different auto parts stores. All they had were "Metric" nuts, what is this world coming to. I finally found them at O'rileys Then of course they sell the lugs in 4 packs. That way if you only need 1 wheel you have to buy 2 packs. And have 3 lugs left. Well I needed all 20 lugs So I purchased 5 packs. I will order me up some locks later. It's Damn highway robbery I say.
Everything for our old vehicles has gone online.Not many auto parts stores carry SAE parts any more.I tried to buy an alternator for my 71 Skylark.I ended up switching to metric bolts to get an alternator. :pain:
 

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Rip,
Jealous, jealous, jealous!!!! :drool: Your making me drool! LOL
Looks real good! I guess I need to get my butt in gear, and back to work on mine. It's about time that I can, I've just about, just about caught all the worms from that can I opened, and back in the can! (S10 I bought) Now if I could only get the speedometer to work. :smash: It sure will be a lot funner to work on something old again! computer cars suck! You have to keep replacing parts till it works again, or pay someone to much money to tell you what to fix, and then he's wrong and just say's :eek: "Sorry". An old car you look at it, listen, and say, Oh! It's ..... and fix it! After getting your parts from Rockauto.com, because they can't figure how to look up the part you need at the local bolt-on store, for rip-off prices.

Hey, do I see a metal lathe back round? One of the mistakes I made when I move south was, I didn't bring a lathe, and a Bridgeport with me!

Keep up the good work! :thumbup:

Pat
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #65
Yeah you see my toy. It is a Grizzly 9729 Combo Machine, Drill, Mill, and of course lathe. I bought it around 10 to 15 years ago. I use it for roughing out some parts. I have cut slots with the mill and some other odd jobs. I like to just play around on it. I made a replacement part for my brothers planer. It is ok but not close enough tolerance for real serious work. I have also turned brake drums and refaced rotors for off road equipment.

I went to look over the donor today and there is a lot of things to do to get this ready to pull. It is setting outside on my platform lift. I want to un bolt and un hook everything underneath to so I can move the car off the lift and nose it into the shop and yank the running gear in quick fashion. I can then push the old doner off into a new life as a prius or leaf.

Glad you like the progress. Keep plugging at em!!
Rip
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #66
December 2015 Roundup

December 2015 Roundup on Project Sleepy T

Here it is the end of 2015. I thought I would do a year end round up on Project Sleepy T.
Right now I have a tacked together rolling chassis. Let’s go back some and see how I got here.
When I last left you I was getting ready to start on the rear suspension. The rear suspension consists of a Ford 31 spline 8.8 in positrac rear end running 3:73 gears at this time. That gear combo may change to 4:10 gears later.


A1



Here is the 8.8 rear with the oem brackets removed and the new 4 link brackets attached and ready to set in place on the frame bench.

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The rear end is hung on a set of parallel 4 link bars and will be held up by Coil over shocks. The panhard bar is attached to the housing at the pinion. This 8.8 rear end has a nice flat flange on the forward part of the housing next to the pinion. This flange was used to mount a big ol chunk of steel to dampen vibrations in the drive line. With the steel removed I fabricated a mount for one end of the Panhard bar. The other end of the bar is secured to the frame with a welded bracket with 3 adjustment positions. The rear upper coil over mount and rear cross member caused some initial problems as I put it in the wrong place. I totally forgot how much room I needed for the coil overs so I hacked the cross member out and decided to go with a tubular cross member I picked up from JW’s Rod Shop. After re measuring everything I tacked the new cross member in and got the numbers Bang On.



A2



Finalizing the rear cross member location.


A3


This is a great place to mount the Panhard bar.past the centerline of the axle. This used to be a mount for a chunk of steel here to dampen driveline harmonics in a previous life.

A4



The frame mount on the rear panhard was pretty straight forward. The tricky part was providing enough clearance around the various components.



A5



This is the rear panhard rod installed. It clears everything from full up to full down.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #67
December 2015 Roundup pg2

Page 2
I custom built my own front 4 link mounts for the rear end. They came out real good and I thought I had built an original idea building them when I was cruising thru eBay one day and there they were a copy of what I built. I guess maybe my original idea was not so original.

B1

I started first by tracing some tubular 4 link plates on to some 3/16 steel plate. I then cut out the outside profile of the brackets.

B2



The 4 brackets roughed out, paired up and drilled as a pair.


B3


I cut a piece of 3/16 plate and welded a piece of 2.5 X 2.5 square tubing end wise to it. I then notched the plates to fit over the tube. Here I have notched the brackets to fit over the square tubing and it will go to welding next.


B4

Here is one side welded up and ground smooth. This one is now ready for some primer.

B5

At this point I have the brackets set up and tacked to the frame. The rear 4 link is now complete.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #68
December 2015 Roundup pg3

Pg 3

Rear axle Bumpstops I needed a good set of predictable rubber bumpers for the rear suspension. I picked these up at my local auto parts. I think they are Performance Suspension. They were a perfect fit. I cut the corner off some box tubing I had lying around and made a couple brackets to bolt the Snubbers to and then welded them on the inside of the frame to tuck them back out of sight.

C1

here shows the bumpstops and also a sample of the box tube I made the brackets to hold the bumpstops from.



C2



A close up of the Bumpstop and bracket.


C3





Bumpstop and bracket tacked into position
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #69
December 2015 Roundup pg4

Pg4

On to the front suspension
So with the rear done I moved on up to the front. The front axle is a Super Bell 4 in dropped I beam axle I am using 37 Ford spindles and GM metric rotors and calipers for stopping. The GM rotors are drilled and studded for Ford 5 X 4 ½” wheels. I am using a Posi Super Slider front spring and a parallel 4 link with Panhard bar to hold it in the right spots. That should have been nearly a bolt on operation, I just needed to make some frame brackets to mount the front link to the frame

The frame mounts for the front 4 link I again made on the fly. I knew where the bars needed to be and that meant the lower bar would require a mount 2 5/8” from the lower portion of the frame and a upper tube attachment in the side of the frame rail itself. For the lower mounts I grabbed a convenient Pizza Box and kind of sketched what I wanted to see. I then cut out my pattern and bent the template where needed. I taped it up and stared at it a while. After that I made a few more changes then committed the template to some 3/16” steel plate. I drilled a large ¾” hole slightly angled in the bottom of the plate and inserted a piece of ¾ 1/8th wall Dom tubing about 1 ½” long. This is tacked to the plate.



D1




Great template material.. This is the beginning of my 4 link bracket in the front end. I just kept bending and shaping till I got it close.



D2



A few bends here and there



D3



Ok I laid this out on a piece of 3/16 steel drew up some lines then cut the rough cut. I had to more of less guess at the bend angle and do some trimming until I merged it all together.


D4



Here we have the finished lower portion of the brackets.
I drilled a ¾” hole angled thru the frame rail. I inserted another piece 2 ½” long of the Dom tubing and welded it in place thru the frame. The lower plate was aligned and tacked when the sparks quit flying and the smoke cleared I had the aft mounts in for the front 4 link. I placed the 4 link bars on their perspective mounts.





D5

Here we have the driver’s side completed and setting together.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #70
December 2015 Roundup pg5

Pg5

I will be using Vega cross steering so the steering arms were cut from the 37 spindles and I am using Bolt on cross steer arms. I did find the arms were a bit low and interfered with the lower 4 link tube at sharp turns left and right. I pulled the arms off, heated them, and bent tem about 1 inch up. That fixed the clearance issue.

E1

This is the contact point of interference I am finding at full left and right turns. It will require a little heating and bending upward on both left and right steering arms.



Front shock mounts were simple I had a set of Pete N Jakes later model I think 48 ford shock mounts. They were way too long for my use so I cut the tops of the mounts off and shaped them to fit my frame. The brackets were bland so I drilled a few “Lightening” holes to dress them up some.

E2

The final version of my shock mounts out front. They are ready to tack also.





The front wheel hub / disk assembly initially caused some issues. I had what was supposed to be two Volare disk rotors and was attempting to match up some wheel bearings but things weren’t matching up like they should. After some investigating I found I had a set of Ford Ranger Disks. That changed things so I tossed out the old rotors. I still wanted to go with Volare rotors but then started looking at Granada rotors. It was a confusing world All of these different rotors and bearing combos was clouding the issues so I called Speedway Motors and talked with one of their brake techs. As I had already purchased my caliper brackets and Calipers and axle bearing spacer the Speedway tech recommended I use a Chevrolet Rotor that is used with metric brakes. I did not want to change bolt pattern I wanted a Ford pattern. The tech said they have Cheby Rotors with a Ford pattern. They have been drilled with a Ford 5 X 4 ½” pattern and had ½” studs installed. He had the rotors, bearings, and Seals I would need and for the set. they were only $125.00 and I got free shipping. That was better than the local stores. I ordered the rotors and as soon as they showed up slipped them on and got ready to fit the tires on the chassis and remove it from it from the frame rack.


The tires are Rear 285 75 15 and 205 75 14 on the front. They are mounted on a set of Weld 30 spoke wire wheels.
So the chassis is setting on wheels and now I shift the work a bit. Next task is to remove the engine and transmission from the ford donor I have, and get the engine and trans mocked up in the chassis. After the engine is mocked up the major focus will be back on the body sub rails and some serious de rusting of parts. Things may be a bit slow over the next few winter months as heating the shop cost me a small fortune and when it gets much below 40 degrees F I measure fuel consumption of my furnace in the shop to need about 20 barrels of oil a day to heat things up.

E3

So at this point I think I have a roller.. It has been an interesting project so far.

E4

The rear tires “BIG’s” look pretty good setting at ride height.



E5


We can’t forget “The Little's” up front.
I hope everyone had a great holiday and I wish all of you well in the New Year.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #71
Welcome back everyone.

This is now the permanent home of my 27 T coupe Build thread. I actually had a good sized build thread in my project journal however I had trouble before getting the notes posted so I am done playing that game. This is where I am and where I am going to be from now on.

So lets get busy!

Continuing on the deck lid inner shell rebuild.
Hello again,

My repair of my OEM deck lid shell was mostly completed with just a few details to go. I set back and looked at it real critical like, and I didn’t like it. Because of the different widths of the repairs on each side it looked odd. It did fit the shell mostly but I Made an error setting the amount of curve from one side to the other side. It fit but not real straight. All in all I decided to set the OE shell to one side and build a new shell from scratch.

I was inspired to build a new style inner shell by looking closely at the T roadster inner deck lid shell (Figure 1) that is now available through Howell’s. The main difference between the coupe and roadster is that the deck lid extends back and up and the roadster just ends in the rear.

What makes this new style of shell different is in the way the shell is spaced from the skin.

The old way was to have channels rolled into the shell and that determined the shell to skin spacing. (See Fig 2) The Coupe shell has two channels stamped into the shell on each side and the depth of these channels determines the distance from the skin to the inner shell.

I hope I haven’t lost anyone yet. The new panels eliminate the channel on each side and instead they use hat shaped strips of 18 ga spot welded to the back side of the shell in several places to space and support the inner structure.

So what I am going to attempt to do is build a new style shell for my Coupe skin. I think this is the simpler most economical ( Say Frugal ) way to move this project along.( Figure 2)

What I plan to do is start with a flat sheet of 18 ga and layout the flat area and mark the edge flanges. Next bend the edges on both sides. (See Figure 3)
Next I will use the shrinker / stretcher on the flanges equally to establish the same curvature of the skin. I will also use the reinforcements in the rear corners like the original (Fig 4)

Now I have a question on rolling in some beads to stiffen up the shell. Can I do that after I establish the shell curvature? I would think that if I bead rolled it it would be much harder to establish the curve I need.
As for Holes like the OE style that will be determined later.
I have attached some images that I have referenced to.

So soon I will be back cutting and hacking..:cool:
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Beading after is no problem.
How about pre-stretch for the beads?
Do you have an ewheel?
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #73
Yeah Pugs,

I am glad there won't be anything disastrous when I bead roll it.

No I don't have an Ewheel although I would love to have one and be able to make something with it, instead of a lot of scrap metal. It kind of depends on how much stability I have when the edges are stretched as to how many beads it will take.

I am looking forward to starting on this. just 1 project in front and that is to drop the trans in the F150. :cool:
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Yeah Pugs,

I am glad there won't be anything disastrous when I bead roll it.
:cool:
The panel may flim flam enough to drive you crazy when you run beads partially thru it without pre-stretch,
 

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Rip,
How you been doing? Glad to see you working on your coupe. Mine has been at a stand still since I fell off the top of the ladders (you know where it say's "This is not a step, don't stand on") Today I went to pre-op, and I have surgery on my shoulder first thing Monday morning. I just got done Saturday repairing, and shingling my roof. I remember why I was never a roofer.


Sunday I put the head pack on my tractor (Oh, I bought a '63 Ford 4000 diesel tractor), and tomorrow I go, and pick up my coupes 327 from the engine machinist. I have to get all my heavy stuff done, before surgery. But I have a bunch of other things I won't be able to get to before then. I am going to be tied up (pun intended) for a month or two after that.


But, I will be reading about yours till I can get back to mine!


Good luck, Pat
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #76
Hi ya Pat it looks like you are also making progress on your coupe. Sorry to hear you going under the knife. I had a comple right shoulder replacement last may and it turned out to be a breeze. I overnight in hosp and home. Pain was not nearly what I had expected and if I were to need the other shoulder done I would not hesitate. I will say a prayer for you hope you have a great outcome.

After I pull the trans from the F150 I will be back on the Coupe and make some progress I hope. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Well Well Well here we are again. I am finally back working on the TCoup deck lid. I have been measuring figuring measuring and fitting. I have the plan firmed up and started about a week ago. First order of business was to make some layout marks on the sheet of steel.

After looking at the measurements and the layout, I made a couple changes and then went for a reality check on the body measurements. I mocked the outer skin in the hole and discovered I did not know the orientation of the hinges. I spent a couple of hours one evening looking at thousands of T Coupe images till I found one with the detail needed. I mocked the hinges and clamped the skin in position. The top of the deck lid up near the rear window area the decklid actually goes up and under the window structure. When the lid is closed it mates up with the inside of the body which has a slight curve to the outside.

The curve outward on the skin is held in place by the inner shell. It is a complicated series of flutes in the shell bent to hold the curve. as I am building a new inner shell I had to figure out how to replicate the function using what I had in the shop. I dug around and found a piece of 1/2" 060 Box tube. I thought I was going to have to use a die to bend the curve in this tube but I found it fairly easy to hand form this part. I filled the tube with dry sand and set down in the coupe facing the rear window and proceeded to bent the tube by hand and I matched the curve inside the body.

The idea is to weld the tube to the hinges thereby making the hinges and this tube one piece. The curve will hold the skin at the right angle and take the place of the flutes in the inner skin. That brings up the inner corner reinforcements which in oem conditions attach to the inner shell and the hinge assembly. It re enforced the inner shell. So I will use these corner pieces and integrate them into the new inner shell. I have not cut the steel down to final size yet for the inner shell but I have it laid out. I am going to work on the hinge assembly today but it is already after 10 am so I should get in at least a couple of hours on the deal.

Just a couple of pictures to entertain you...:cool:
 

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Hot Rods are Built, not Bought
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Looking good Mr. Van Winkle.

As a side note my grandfather, who would have been in his mid 90's, once told me that the reason that Model T deck lids are so scarce is that he and his buddies used to scour the salvage yards for them when they were kids.

Why?

They made awesome snow sleds.

Wouldn't that be a hoot of a video.. think Our Gang comedy.
 
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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #79
I have been working on the upper corner brace/hinge mount .. These are at the part of the deck lid where the inner shell connects these parts together and makes the rear skin curve in the right direction.

Because I am not using the oem shell I need to connect these corners together. So after rebuilding each corner piece, (these 2 brackets were built on 3 different sets a prints originally ha ha) I got the brackets squared up and temporarily clamped in place. Because the oem inner shell was part of this structure and it had 3 dimples in the shell and the center was the highest dimple with the left dimple and right dimple set back about a 1/8". Now if you draw a line left and right and put a small curve in it it will match the curve of the back of the cabin under the window,

The brackets are normally mounted to the skin in the very back as the skin gets a 90 deg bent to make the top seam flat. A long strip with a rubber seal curved to the body is attached to this edge and seals the trunk to cabin gap and keeps weather out.

At this point I think I have fully confused everyone reading this thread. I am going to post a picture of the inner shell and it highlights the "Dimples".

I have a shot of the hinges clamped together with the 1/2" box tube that is arched to take the place of the inner shell and holds the skin where it is supposed to.

Oh there is a shot of the end of the box tube kind of showing the curve it will have.

And finally, Introducing Abby The Shop Inspector

Tomorrow I am going to finish my bead blast cabinet dust collector. I am constructing a cyclone dust catcher for my bead blaster. More on that later..:cool:

Enjoy everyone... Aspirin are available at the ticket booth:pain:
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter #80
So after a little playing in the shop it is back to business on the new deck lid shell.

I had mocked up the corner pieces and the 1/2 box tubing. I needed to tweak a little here and there and then found I needed to weld the brackets up outside of the lid. I just laid it all out and moved slowly and in the layout process I squared it up and welded the tube onto the corners.

I then cut a 1" wide piece of 18ga and laid it against the square tube between the edges of the corner pieces. This is the area normally filled by the inner shell so I needed to ensure a straight surface between the end pieces.

The last 1 1/2" of the deck lid is bent at a 90 there and that makes a nice flat area to mount the skin to. that area also serves as the mount for a metal strip with weather strip attached. The weatherstrip keeps weather out of the cabin.

This has been a interesting exercise. So far I am very pleased with the way this is coming along. My next step will be to clamp the corners in place and after I get everything aligned I will drill a hole of each end of the brackets and mount them with some 8-32 screws and nuts. I will then take the assembly over to the car and hang the lid on the hinges and make sure things are going to fit correctly.

If I am lucky and things fit I can then bend up the inner shell. I pulled out the sheet of steel for the rest of the inner shell I have laid out and took a good hard reality check so far everything is looking correct. Here are a couple a photos for your consumption..:cool:
 

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