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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Well it's a done deal! I rolled a couple a beads in the shell today. I did encounter a couple of problems in the process.

First problem was throat depth of my bead roller. I wanted to put 3 vertical beads in the panel but I was about 1 1/2" short of reaching the center. I had to regroup and remeasure for only 2 beads. I had some minor clearance issues because of the side but I was able to work through and successfully put 2 beads down the the panel.

Pugs you were right it flimmed a bit on the first bead at about 1/2 way. It caught me by surprise. but once I re supported it and finished the bead and it straightened right out. I could tell a big improvement in the strength when I finished both beads.

I made note to myself to put some kind of fence on my bead roller as it is a big pain to only have a line to follow. Another item I noted was the position of the forward reverse switch. It needs to be accessible to both sides.

This is by far a long way from show car look but at lease it is solid new and it fits..

One of the things I needed to know before I rolled this was just how much clearance was between the skin and shell. I took a couple of plastic garbage bags and laid one out on the inside of the skin. I then took a bunch of play doh and rolled them roughly into about 1/2" ropes and laid them on the trash bag on the skin. I laid another trash bag over them then assembled the two pieces. of deck lid together. I then pushed some and wiggled the panel just to simulate usage. I pulled the two pieces apart and looked and the clay ropes. I had calculated to have 3/8" of space and the clay showed I had anywhere from 3/8" to 1/2" right where it is needed.

The next step will be to get a good covering of SPI epoxy over both or the pieces and when dry I will put the shell in place and set the rivets and close up the lower edge. Oh I will also add a 3 x 3 square of fat mat to insulate and quiet things inside.

I am hoping for cooperative weather next week so I can get these pieces primed and out of the way. I think both doors are next. I am hoping for an easier time as I have all the parts that were damaged in new steel and I don't anticipate any trouble. I need to get the doors done before I set it on the chassis and mock up the body mounts and other items I haven't realized yet will need to be done then.

Still lots to do but I think I can do it. :cool::cool:
Nice.

Now you just need to finish the ends of your beads.
If you take a piece of tube the same diameter as the OD of your bead, you cut about 1/2 the tube off one end about 1/2" deep and use it as a punch. Hammer it around the end of the bead and it will round it up nicely.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Thanks for that tip Pugsy. I had a hunk a pipe close but not exactly the right size but it did improve the looks a lot.:thumbup::cool:
 

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Slow but willing learner
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Thanks for that tip Pugsy. I had a hunk a pipe close but not exactly the right size but it did improve the looks a lot.:thumbup::cool:
Rip, I bought a set of Taiwan hole punches off Ebay for 7 bucks and free shipping or some such ridiculous price. Grind half the tip off and, Walla! a tool size to finish any size bead end.

John
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Rip, I bought a set of Taiwan hole punches off Ebay for 7 bucks and free shipping or some such ridiculous price. Grind half the tip off and, Walla! a tool size to finish any size bead end.

John
Damn....the next time I go to punch a hole, odds are I will be only punching smilies......now I gotta go buy another set.
 
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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Rip, I bought a set of Taiwan hole punches off Ebay for 7 bucks and free shipping or some such ridiculous price. Grind half the tip off and, Walla! a tool size to finish any size bead end.

John
That is a great idea John. I think I will go ebay shopping... :thumbup: :cool:
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Doors!!

I have been stuck in a weather holding pattern for at least a week on priming the deck lid. It just isn't warm enough yet to paint. Best I could do today was 56 deg F. 10 deg below where I want to be for a minimum. The forecast is for warming weather in the near future so I am ready when the weather cooperates.

So in the meantime I did another week long tidy day and today I started forward on the next part of the body. That will be the doors. I am going to do lower door skins and the bottom of both door frames.

I started by trying to unbolt the hinges, there are 3. A top hinge secured with what only looked like 2 slotted screws, a middle with 4 screws and the lower with 4 screws. Being this vehicle is 91 years old It used slotted head screws and that caused a bit of a problem. I tried a hand type impact screwdriver that ya hit with a hammer. That did not budge the screws. ( I have been soaking these for quite a while with PB Blaster. I tried heat and still could not budge the screws. I finally took the screwdriver tip adapter off my hand held impact and put it on my Aircraft impact wrench and cranked down the torque. I started slow and slowly brought the pressure up until the screw came loose. I did the first screw on the top hinge and it came out. The second 1/2 did not. I wound drilling and using an easy out. I had problems on 1 more screw but I got all the visible screws out but the door would not move. the bottom and middle hinges were moving slightly but the top was stuck.

To shorten the story I found out why the hinge would not move was that it had an L in the end of the hinge and that is held with 2 screws which were hid behind the inner cover of the A post. Removing the screws were not easy and then you have to wiggle the hinge out.

Success at the end of the session though. I persevered and persisted and finally got the door off. I have a problem with the right door in that something is out of wack between the top of the door and the A post. Now that everything is removed I can see a bend in the upper part of the A post. So when all is stripped cleaned and straightened I will have 2 repaired doors to hang on the body. The fun is coming back..:cool:
 

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Grand Prix user
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How come you didn't just "Rip" it off?

Joking. Boy I bet it is a thrill moving on to doors now. Ancient hinge screws ain't fun but maybe the door repairs will be.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
The weather finally cooperated and yesterday I was finally able to get the deck lid, Inner shell, and rear brace primed with 3 coats SPI Epoxy Primer. The Primer was mixed at 72 degrees and the parts were at 74 deg. I am truly impressed with the primer. It went on so easy.. I will be letting the parts cure for a few more days and then in with the Fat Mat and the two pieces will be sealed together.

Not a lot to see but I figured I would toss a couple a pictures out to entertain.

So onward with the doors...:cool:
 

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Slow but willing learner
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Great job Rip. If any of that pitted metal is going to show, now would be a great time to wipe a little filler on the pits while it is in the 7 day window.

John
 

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How good is that.
Nice to know that you have all surfaces coated with paint now so no issues for years to come if at all.

With your doors, are you planning to use those finger hinges or will you upgrade to the next year which has the hinges similar to the model A's.
Are your latches working and in good condition?
 

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Grand Prix user
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The weather finally cooperated and yesterday I was finally able to get the deck lid, Inner shell, and rear brace primed with 3 coats SPI Epoxy Primer. The Primer was mixed at 72 degrees and the parts were at 74 deg. I am truly impressed with the primer. It went on so easy.. I will be letting the parts cure for a few more days and then in with the Fat Mat and the two pieces will be sealed together.

Not a lot to see but I figured I would toss a couple a pictures out to entertain.

So onward with the doors...:cool:
Dadgum, Rip... you can be right proud of that, the skin looks store-bought!:drool::thumbup::pimp:
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
John,
The backs of the brackets will all be covered with structure and the front parts that are exposed are getting a screw on cover that will completely cover the front side and you won't see the brace at all. BTW thanks for reminding me about the brackets as I just thought up that cover assembly..:thumbup:

Thanks IDJ I appreciate the words of confidence. This thing has put me to school on my metal work. I still have miles to go but I am getting that elephant eaten one bite at a time..:thumbup:

fiftyv8, Yeah I had to make sure this deck lid never has problems. The difference between my shell and a factory job is a whole bunch of holes spaced over the inner shell. The factory made sure the air could circulate between the inner and outer shell and helped keep things kind of dry. My shell has no circulation holes per say but I get ariflow from the 4 corners. Ad that to the fact I am going to have a layer of "FatMat on the inside to help with keeping surfaces the right temps and to eliminate BOOM BOOM BOOM.

Ok next we look at the door mission.. besides the rust repair the right top of the the passenger door hits the A Pillar and I will need to determine what is out of whack. Once both doors are off I can measure and use a square to figure where the out of whack is and give it a Whack or 3!!

I haven't decided if I will change out the hinges as I really don't want to alter the outside look and So far the initial inspection of the right door hinges shows little wear and nice smooth movement. As for Door latches I rebuilt the stock door latch assemblies with some parts off Ebay. They are a simple but pretty robust latch. I also have all the B pillar parts of the latch in new oem parts. I even got the door anti rattle cushions..:cool:
 

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Rip here are a couple of pic's of T hinges.
What you have is 1926 finger style hinges, where as the next year went to the other more solid type.

If yours are in good condition then might as well stick with them.
Biggest problem is this rings tend to break off unexpectedly.
 

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Rip, when working with your body, be sure that all your D nuts used mostly to attach trim and garnish pieces are firstly intact and wont drop out as I have discovered late in my build, but also check threads are not stripped or got broken off metal stuck inside.

I had a lot of trouble with D nuts around the rear window and garnish mould on the A pillars.
Cover plate panels on the B pillars also required a run thru with a tap.

I ended up purchasing some replacement D nuts from Snyders in Ohio, but have in desperation I have actually gone to the trouble of drilling out the center of a D nut and pressing a new piece of round bar into a drilled hole and the re-tapping it.

Some would call it dedication, but it ain't much fun...
Original D nuts were pressed in and burred over, but nowadays most folks just use a MIG weld to hold them in position.
I've wised up these days and can attach most small to medium size taps to my battery variable speed drill which is must quicker and easier to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Oh man are those D-Nuts a major PIA. When I started working on my B pillars as the passenger one was bent some and I had to replace almost all of them. I searched all over for replacements and finally located some I think it was snyders also. There was a limited quantity available and I bought enough to do the B pillars. They were pricey too! I am going to change to a clinch nut on everything else where possible. If I have to weld the hole shut and redrill for a clinch nut it will be business as usual..:cool:
 

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I hear you.
I discovered my A pillar D nut problems when doing final assembly and it was tough.
Next project will be all clinch nuts if there are problems.
My current project is a 26 T coupe converted to a 5 window pickup.
Next project will be an almost perfect body 27 T coupe with welded in steel roof, Jag IRS and full fendered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
I finally reached the milestone on the deck Lid project. :D:D

I finished attaching the new shell I built to put the deck lid skin on. and everything fit. I got the fat mat down and assembled the pieces clamped them together and went riveting away. I used stock factory type 3/16 Steel rivets and along the top in the back I used 3/16 Click Lock rivets. On the Hinge Block/Bearing I decided to use bolts and nylock nuts just in case I ever needed to rebuild the hinge points.

I almost screwed up when I was assembling the 2 pieces as I had totally forgot to allow for any method of latch mounting. I needed a platform to hold a latch too. I am looking at a remote mounted trunk release but haven't decided yet which one. My deck lid is smooth where the oringinal key went in to the latch I decided to set 4 screws through the inner pannel and I cut another piece of 18 ga to hold the screws in position till I am ready to install a latch..

I then set the inner panel and clamped it in place. On the sides I used 7/16 head 3/16 shank steel rivets and the blind area I used 3/16 Steel Click Lock rivets. I did mount the hinge bearing/bushing using screws with nylock nuts. instead of rivets. That way if I ever need to replace a bushing it is a simple process to unscrew and replace. The last thing I need to do is roll the edges over the inner panel on the sides and on the bottom. I will take care of this in the upcoming weekend. I ordered myself a 5 inch rubber coated dolly to use on the bottom seam so I don't beat the bejeebers out of the skin. It should be here by friday.

Next step I will finish pulling the drivers door off and get both of them torn down.

This deck lid is the hardest thing I have ever done body and fender wise and I am elated that it worked out so well. A big thanks to all of you guys I call my advisors for all the hints and help during this learning process. I finally consumed the elephant in the shop! I did Persevere:thumbup::thumbup: :cool:
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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That's terrific Rip. :thumbup:
 
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