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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I'm wondering if there is anyway to tell if my 1985 crown vic is roller ready or not. Its a 2 barrel carb, non HO 302. Preferably without taking it apart first...

And if anyone has had success with the roller lifters designed specifically for non-roller blocks if it comes to it. I wanna through in a hydraulic roller cam, maybe from a mustang or explorer. (With the gt40p heads eventually)

Thanks
 

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1985 would be a roller block. Look at the block casting numbers behind the starter to be sure you have an 85 block. The first 2 positions should read E5


E =198X
5=5


E5 =1985
Pushrods are quite a bit shorter in an engine with a roller cam in them. You could pull one and check, but it could also be equipt with a flat tappet cam and still be a roller block.
 

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Many non HO's were still flat tappet up until 1989 in full sized cars and trucks,and Ford to confuse folks even more used the same block casting numbers from 1980-89.best way is pull the intake a roller cam motor will look like this picture,and has that sheet metal piece we affectionately call the "spider".
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Many non HO's were still flat tappet up until 1989 in full sized cars and trucks,and Ford to confuse folks even more used the same block casting numbers from 1980-89.best way is pull the intake a roller cam motor will look like this picture,and has that sheet metal piece we affectionately call the "spider".
But, I've also read that they may be roller blocks, but flat tappet inside, thus will not have the spiders. I guess I would have to look for the threaded holes for the spider?

I plan on changing the intake/carb/manifold at the same time regardless so I might as well check then to see what I'm dealing with.

I'm also a newb when it comes to this (but I'm learning).
 

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Not sure if it is roller ready. I use to have a 85, 5.0 Mustang I bought it 86. I could be wrong but what I seem to recall is when the roller cam motors came out in 85, they were specific roller blocks for Mustang only. It wasn't until about 87 or 88 where Crown Vics had roller cam motors. I know there were roller cam blocks with flat tappet cams. They have the bosses for the spiders but I believe they need to be drilled and tapped. Again, I'm not saying that 85 motor you're looking at isn't roller ready, just what I thought was true. LATECH could be right. I was under the impression that the use of roller blocks in 85 was reserved only for stick shift Mustangs only. Roller cam cast blocks have "XXX" cast on them around cylinders 1&2 under the intake manifold.

I recently picked up a 30K mile GT40P motor, trans and complete wiring harness with CPU for $450
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Not sure if it is roller ready. I use to have a 85, 5.0 Mustang I bought it 86. I could be wrong but what I seem to recall is when the roller cam motors came out in 85, they were specific roller blocks for Mustang only. It wasn't until about 87 or 88 where Crown Vics had roller cam motors. I know there were roller cam blocks with flat tappet cams. They have the bosses for the spiders but I believe they need to be drilled and tapped. Again, I'm not saying that 85 motor you're looking at isn't roller ready, just what I thought was true. LATECH could be right. I was under the impression that the use of roller blocks in 85 was reserved only for stick shift Mustangs only. Roller cam cast blocks have "XXX" cast on them around cylinders 1&2 under the intake manifold.

I recently picked up a 30K mile GT40P motor, trans and complete wiring harness with CPU for $450
Well if its flat tappet in a roller block I'd be happy. Want I want to inevitably find out is if the lifters need to be retro-fit lifters or just regular rollers when I find a roller cam. If its technically a roller block, I can tap the holes for the spider and the hydraulic roller lifters will fit naturally. I THINK.
Haha, but if not, like I said I'll look into retro-fit connected lifters and some cam or whatever.

IT WILL BE A ROLLER BLOCK>

Dont really wanna buy another engine cuzz this bad boy only has 65k miles. Also plan on replacing the heads with GT40p's when I put a new cam in. That'll be at the same time.
 

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This is what the inside of a roller block looks like. The lifter bore casting is a little higher to accommodate the longer roller lifter. The heads are GT40P - but be aware that all exhaust manifolds won't clear the spark plugs:





The performance version of the 'spider' can be found in the Ford Racing catalog - the OEM version if I recall was an engineering plastic (but that was a long time ago that I changed that part out so my memory is hazy)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is what the inside of a roller block looks like. The lifter bore casting is a little higher to accommodate the longer roller lifter. The heads are GT40P - but be aware that all exhaust manifolds won't clear the spark plugs:





The performance version of the 'spider' can be found in the Ford Racing catalog - the OEM version if I recall was an engineering plastic (but that was a long time ago that I changed that part out so my memory is hazy)
Gorgeous. I'll be getting shorties to fit on my dual exhaust that clear GT40p heads as well from Ford racing. - thinking ahead-

And fingers crossed.
 

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Well if its flat tappet in a roller block I'd be happy. Want I want to inevitably find out is if the lifters need to be retro-fit lifters or just regular rollers when I find a roller cam. If its technically a roller block, I can tap the holes for the spider and the hydraulic roller lifters will fit naturally. I THINK.
Haha, but if not, like I said I'll look into retro-fit connected lifters and some cam or whatever.

IT WILL BE A ROLLER BLOCK>

Dont really wanna buy another engine cuzz this bad boy only has 65k miles. Also plan on replacing the heads with GT40p's when I put a new cam in. That'll be at the same time.
As I said, I'm fairly certain only the Mustang carbed, not efi blocks were roller cam in 85 The rest such as Crown Vic, trucks, ect were not roller cam type blocks and strictly flat tappet blocks. I could be wrong. I'd suggest doing a search or asking on The Corral they'll know for sure. Why not just buy a P motor? I picked one up with 30K miles, complete with trans, wiring harness and CPU for $450. The motor is going in my 66.
 

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If you stop by The Corral you might want to check out the classifieds,those guys are always into the latest upgrades you might snag some good AFR or Trick Flow heads for a good price.
 

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While not 100% sure, but my guess is that at least most if not all late '85 blocks had the provisions for roller cams as they transitioned. It's one of those little tidbits you pick up that hangs around a few brain cells. Oh and you do need a hardened steel camshaft retainer and either a steel, bronze or composite distributor gear to go with a steel roller cam.

There is at least one major drawback to GT40P heads besides the need for special headers - bolt down instead of stud mounted rocker arms ..... and not an inexpensive fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wouldn't the rocker arms (bolt vs stud) be according to the valve train? If I buy gt40p heads, wouldn't I just have to use the appropriate rocker arms/mount?
 

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Wouldn't the rocker arms (bolt vs stud) be according to the valve train? If I buy gt40p heads, wouldn't I just have to use the appropriate rocker arms/mount?
Yes, you can do that but those can be a bear to adjust properly for proper lifter preload and a 5/16 bolt vs a 3/8 or 7/16 stud is so much stronger. Crane makes an interim 'fix' and the full on machined version is in the Ford Racing catalog, paper or on line. If you use any steel roller camshaft other then a Ford 'letter' cam you may have to go to the full one. Not expensive, but you do need to find a trusworthy machine shop
 

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And if you use one of the "budget" heads in the link above they will out flow the GT40p's and have stud mount rockers that are fully adjustable and less expensive and use just about any conventional header out there so in the long run you save money,hassle and get more power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
And if you use one of the "budget" heads in the link above they will out flow the GT40p's and have stud mount rockers that are fully adjustable and less expensive and use just about any conventional header out there so in the long run you save money,hassle and get more power.
The Flo-Tec 180cc do actually look promising, it states that it's designed for a hydraulic flat tappet as well if I'm not mistaken. Definitely going to consider it if I cant find a pair of decent cheap GT40p's, but you never know. The problem with where I'm located is that its hard to find anything around here without travelling VERY far -Northern Ontario-. So buying a bolt on + shipping might be the way to go unless I find something to tear out of at a scrapyard in Toronto or something (unlikely).
 
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