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rotor not alined

669 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  53LEDSLED
at the very edge of the rotor, it has about .03" off when you spin it 360 degrees. i dont know if im being anal, or if thats ok. i tried tightening the bolt that holds the rotor to the spindle but it only makes the rotor harder to turn. all the parts are new, including both inside and outside bearings, 2" drop spindles, and rotor. here is a picture to give you a better idea about what im talking about. thanx
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Is that a 2 piece hat and center on that car..??

0.03 is not all that bad as the caliper should float a bit to accomodate that..if it is a 2 piece there may be a bit of runout where the hat and hub are mated..None of these things are absolutely perfect and what you have looks good from here..

When you tighten the nut that holds the hub..turn it in till the rotor is hard to turn and then back it off about a flat or 2 and put the cotter key in..that should give you the correct bearing clearance..

put the wheel on and try may be just fine..

just my take on this deal..
what is a 2 piece hat and center?

i did just what you said and the wheel turns fine, with the caliper pads just hitting a little bit, but thats just because their new pads and the caliper is not properly adjusted.
my worry was that if its 0.03 off at just 4" from the center, how bad is it going to be 10" or 11" when the tire are one, and how much will that affect me at high speeds??
Check the runout at the wheel

mount a wheel on the hub and check the runout at the wheel rim to see if you have a wobble there..

we are trying to isolate the issue so that we can fix the correct thing..

Wheel wobble is not a good thing..makes a vibration at speed..also check your reading on the dial indicator..are we at 0.030 0r 0.0030..makes a difference..

two piece hub and hat deal is when the rotor and the hub are 2 seperate pieces and the rotor is pressed onto the hub and the lug bolts then go trhough both pieces..if there is a bit of dirt or shaving between the hub and rotor this can cause a runout..

take a break and walk around a bit and not be too excited as we can get to the bottom of this deal..

Take care
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Take an indicator reading on the flange where the wheel studs are located and see what you get there. If your off .030 there I would take it back and get another as this would efect your wheel run out as you earlier mentioned. How does the other rotor check out? A slight bit of run out on the pad surface can be corrected on a rotor lathe but run out on the wheel mounting surface is not good. If you use the rotors with pad run out you will get a pulsating feeling on light braking and normal braking the rest of the time.:thumbup:
its only 0.02" at the flange where the wheel studs are at, i imagine thats not bad at all??, as far as the pad surface goes im not going to worrie about that for now, if i have problems with it, ill put it in our lathe.
thanx every one:thumbup:
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