Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 1930 Model A pickup street rod it weighs 2520. i put new shocks on it about 4 months ago and it helped alot , was a pretty smooth ride compared to the way it was. Now after only 4 months it's riding really rough again. i hit a bump last night and it was so hard it popped the door open. should a shock go bad that fast or is there some thing else going on.It has a 78 mustang 2 front end and a 65 nova posi rear. my question is Is there something else i can do or put on to smooth out my ride with out costing an arm an a leg?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,112 Posts
Measure the length of the shocks at ride height. Record length. Remove shock. Stroke it by hand. Does it stroke smoothly? If not you have a bad shock. A lot of times you can tell a bad shock by feel.
Now measure the length of the shock fully compressed. Record. Measure the length of the shock fully extended. Rcord. Subtract compressed length from extended length. This is your stroke. Approximately 60% of your stroke should be for compression. If this is not the case, you could be bottoming or topping out the shock. Example: 5" stroke = 3"compression
How much room for travel is there between the front and rear axles and the frame? Are you bottoming the frame on the axles?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
QA1 shocks

FYI, I have purchased QA1 shocks from: Carter Gerlach <[email protected]>

I called QA1 and inquired if I could buy directly from the QA1 plant in the Twin Cities because I live there and they referred me to Carter. I also have a lightweight car, '38 Willys 2 door sedan with a 327. When purchased the car was bottoming out the shocks so installed short body QA1 shocks. That solved the shock bottoming problem but led me to the stiff coil spring problem. The cars builder cut coils off the coil springs until he got the front end very low, for appearance. After reading about cutting coil springs it was obvious when they are cut the stiffness increases. So the builder got a nice looking rake to the car but sacrificed ride.

Then decided to replace the coil springs and install coils over the QA1 shocks. Tech support recommended the softest spring they sold because of the cars weight and after removing the coil perches on the lower TCI lower A arms the QA1 shocks and springs fit fine.

During the installation of the QA1 shocks and coil over springs I knocked off an adjusting knob from the QA1 shocks. Carter fixed that on the car for little cost, he is a good guy.

If I recall the cost of the QA1 chrome springs was $75 and the cost of the shocks was $250, not positive of the total but close. The QA1 shocks I got were single valve adjustable and of course with the threaded shock body you can adjust the amount of upward and downward shock movement. As another poster said you want 60 percent upward compression and 40 percent downward movement.

Understand that to get the appropriate 60/40 shock travel the ride height won't be selectable unless you want to violate the 60/40 shock travel. Once you get the shocks and install them you will understand my statement.

Also buy the 2 $15 adjusting wrenches from QA1 you will need to install/adjust the QA1 shocks, IMHO they should include those with the shocks. Of course follow instructions to unload the shocks AND use quality anti-seize lubricant on the aluminum QA1 shocks when adjusting same.

On to installing sway bars, too much body roll for me AND when rounding corners at higher speeds, and hit a Minnesota bump, have had the QA1 shocks bottom out on the outside of the front end because of all the roll.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top