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Discussion Starter #1
OK, before you say it - don't yell at me - I posted this on another site as well but the response has NOT been eardrum shattering !! :D :confused:

I just received my running board covers and SS trim for my '31A roadster. The boards and covers are identical for both the '30 and the '31 so I decided to use the SS version of the trim from a 1930 instead so I could eliminate the welting. The trim does not fit over the cover and somewhere I had read that the outer edges of the pyramid embossing had to be routered off for it to fit correctly but can't find that information again. Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone done this successfully? How? With a router jig? I have big and even bigger routers so not a problem with a tool.

Another question, these are self-stick covers but Macs and LeBarron-Bonney suggest using cement as well. Has anyone had experience with applying contact cement over the self stick tape they use or is there a better version of a contact type cement I can use - the usual stuff is real good for counter tops. Where to buy it as well? Other suggestions?

And no, I wont promise that I wont do it again even if you shove bamboo slivers under my finger nails. :pain:

Dave

(As always, thanks)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Irelands child said:
:
Dave

(As always, thanks)


I'm surprised :eek: - no response - that someone hasn't even spoken harshly to me about dual posts (regardless of my anti-yell statement) !!!

Dave
 

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OK .. :D

Fuss, curse and complain ... about the double post ... Happy NOW :)

I would help but I know almost nothing about Model A's ...

Model B's are a different story ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Deuce said:
OK .. :D

Fuss, curse and complain ... about the double post ... Happy NOW :)

I would help but I know almost nothing about Model A's ...

Model B's are a different story ;)
Thanks, Deuce - I feel much better now (I believe you wander over there occasionally as well).

Actually - a guy on the other site just suggested Rhino bed liner material instead of rubber covers which may be a viable alternative since I'm not necessarily looking for a resto appearance.
Dave
 

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I dont' know either but I have some rubber matt type material to use on the running boards for my 38 DeSoto and I plan on using conatact cement. Since I made them myself they are less than perfectly flat and I don't have any machines that will make them any smoother so that's the route I'm trying this spring unless I find something better in the mean time.
 

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For my pickup, I made running board covers from aluminum diamond plate...............looks good and covers the rusty part.
 

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boatbob2
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running board covers

hi guys,ive used 3 M,5200 for years on all kind of things i dont want to come loose.its NEVER failed me.the only bad thing is that it takes 7 to 10 days to set up.BUT if youre thinking of ever removing the covers DONT USE IT. you will tear the rubber cover,.home depot has the 5200,about$ 12.00 a tube ,,,shoot some on the metal running board,and squeege it out leave about 1.8 in of 5200,and a little on the cover. put weights on it,and it will stay forever. im boatbob2
 

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31 runningboards used a molded on the board cover which had a 1/4 round edge which abutted the side trim pieces. Reproduction covers are cut from a roll of pyramid matting. One manufacturer makes the correct 31 boards with moulded covers.
The original running board trim was made of zinc, reproductions are offered in zinc-plated steel or stainless, natural or polished finish.

1930 runningboards were 1 piece with the splash apron. The forward section of the aprons were welded to the front fenders.
 

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boatbob2
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running board covers

Hi 38 Special, i put the covers on,right over the primer,(2 coats of epoxy primer) but you could paint the running boards and clear them. i cut a piece of 3/4 in plywood,to the same shape,and put 2 hole cement blocks on the plywood.(it really does take 7 to 10 days to set up.) 5200 doesnt get hard hard, more like a rubber type. if you put some 5200 on a piece of waxed paper,after it cures you can stretch it like rubber. i would use acetone, and remove the self stick,so i would be assured of a good bond. you can remove the excess 5200 by using acetone on a rag.......... im boatbob2
 

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Discussion Starter #11
38 special said:
I dont' know either but I have some rubber matt type material to use on the running boards for my 38 DeSoto and I plan on using conatact cement. Since I made them myself they are less than perfectly flat and I don't have any machines that will make them any smoother so that's the route I'm trying this spring unless I find something better in the mean time.
I tried the contact cement method (the good stuff, Weldwood, that both Mac's and Lebarron-Bonney recommend and sell) on the first set of covers, one of which I damaged and they peeled right off. I bought a second set of covers, which for some reason are a lot heavier material and suspect that they will peel off as well and probably even easier than my first attempt. OEM's were heat and pressure bonded @400deg/350psig (at least on Fords) thru holes in the boards themselves for an anchor - JIC. Do I have confidence that they will stay stuck with contact cement - nope :sweat: :pain: !! Which is why I'm looking for an alternative method plus help others who are in this dilemma. :thumbup:

Dave
 

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Thanks Irelands Child.
Thanks you too, BBob. Hmmmmm... that gives me another idea. I could use a thin piece of plywood and attach it to the running board and then glue the rubber to it. That would make my running boards smoother. I'll try to let you know how it turns out.
 
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