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I am looking for HELP or ideas. - I own a 1948 Chevy P/U with a 427 Chevy Tall Deck in it.Mild cam, big valves in the heads,(Streetable) I changed the intake over to alumn, had the back water passages on the intake drilled and tapped to take 3/4" heater hose to get the hot water out of the back of the heads, hoses run up front to a block above the thermostat, thermostat I drilled a 1/16 hole in the back flange area. I took off the reg water pump and installed a Moroso electric water pump,it has a new 4 core radiator,I also use distilled water,timing is at 10 degrees, it has a 700R4 trans with the cooler up front and low out of the way of the rad. Before I changed everything it would run 210 - 240 degrees
what I did seems to help, it runs now about 200 -
220 Is there anything else I can do to bring down the temp. I don't want to fry the engine???? Down the turnpike it not too bad, it is the slow in town traffic where I get worried. HELP <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

[ May 17, 2002: Message edited by: Lloyd Topping Jr ]</p>
 

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If it runs okay at highway speeds & hot at low speeds/idle the radiator is okay, but you need more air moving thru the rad.......The BEST set-up is a mech fan w/a shroud.......keep us informed...Don
 

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I have had similar problems with my 57, staying cool at speeds means that capacity is okay, you need more air through the radiator at idle. I suggest an electric fan,as it will further unload your engine. I have a thermostat set up like a honda... doesn't work well though and blows the fuse upon startup sometimes, still needs some work I guess, so I use a manual switch and watch the temp gauge. I only use (need) the fan in traffic and idling around town, she stays cool in the hottest weather at a dead standstill. If clearance is an issue look into Spal fans, they hvae some only 2" thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Don Meyer:
<strong>If it runs okay at highway speeds & hot at low speeds/idle the radiator is okay, but you need more air moving thru the rad.......The BEST set-up is a mech fan w/a shroud.......keep us informed...Don</strong><hr></blockquote>

Don.
I really appreciate your quick reply - the problem
is I have NO room for a mech fan on the engine. I have a 16" electric fan on the outside of the rad that is a pusher. The fan is controled by a sensor in the front of the intake manifold. I have the fan at the top of the rad. Should I have it run all the time and mount it lower on the rad???It is right at the very top of the rad. Thanks, Lloyd
 

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i say put in a 160 degree thermostat and put dual electric fans on you r radiator one on each side, high RPM's running all the time that should bring it down some
 

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If you're running an electric fan it is important to know what temp the fan kicks on and also what temp the fan will shut back off. If it's simply a temp sensor that turns the fan on at 200eg. it may be shutting the fan off as soon as you hit 199deg.. In that case you'll never go below that at idle since at that temp. the fan shuts off and your cooling stops (when car is stopped). Most cars with factory electric fans the fans are turned on by the PCM at approx. 212deg. but aren't shut back off 'till temp. has dropped back to around temp. the t-stat opens. See if you can by-pass the sensor and run the fan continuous at idle and see what temp. does. Also fan should cover as much of radiator core area as possible, if necessary go to dual fans as mentioned. Your fan may not be running enough as well as covering enough area. Also if using dual fans I would make them both pushers and measure it so both fans together cover entire area of rad. core.

[ April 21, 2002: Message edited by: dmorris1200 ]</p>
 

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You better put some type of lubercaint and antifreeze in the rad. Water by itself won't do the job. The pusher fan is not the way to cool it down because of the area of coverage. As suggested Id put on a clutch fan and a shroud if you want to cool it down. The hole that you drilled in the thermostat should be in the front of the motor thats the highest point of the motor.
Did you ever add water to a hot frying pan? That's what is happening to your motor, try a 185* thermostat for more heat disipation to the coolant.I have close to the same setup and with a 160* thermostat it runs 165* just about all day and get's up to 190* on a very hot day. LOL
Heres a site I found from another for cooling problems.
<a href="http://www.inccn.net/techforum.htm" target="_blank">http://www.inccn.net/techforum.htm</a>

[ April 21, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]

[ April 23, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
 

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I'm confused here, we all know a good fan and shroud works great, but didn't Lloyd just say there's no room and that's why he's using electric pushers? That was the first suggestion and Lloyd responded "NO room". Hey Lloyd is that the case, because if so then we need to find the best way of keeping this engine cool without any use of mech. fan or shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by dmorris1200:
<strong>I'm confused here, we all know a good fan and shroud works great, but didn't Lloyd just say there's no room and that's why he's using electric pushers? That was the first suggestion and Lloyd responded "NO room". Hey Lloyd is that the case, because if so then we need to find the best way of keeping this engine cool without any use of mech. fan or shroud.</strong><hr></blockquote>
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by Lloyd Topping Jr:
[QB][/QB]<hr></blockquote>dmorris1200 - Yes - the problem is I have NO room for a mech fan. I could probably put in a shroud of some type. I took off the Reg Water pump and installed the Moroso Electric water pump so when I shut off the engine I can still circulate the water to help cool the engine down. Should I move the electric fan down farther on the rad??? I can go maybe 4" Would a Ford Taurus fan work??? It is bigger in diam???
 

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Ideally you want to cover as much area as possible either with one huge fan or two running together. You want as much air trough the radiator as possible and for as long as possible. Did you find out at what temp the sensor is supposed to turn the fan on and off. Can it be modified? And just to clarify, I didn't mean to offend but I didn't se the point in ten more people saying to install a mech. fan if there isn't room. Unless someone has a suggestion for Lloyds vehicle to either move the radiator forward or relocate it? Also make sure you have a good 50/50 mixture of coolant/water, and a t-stat around 180deg. Air flow through (not around) the radiator is critical. Unfortunately the fans actually create an obstruction when not running, but you need them. Some manufactures use specially designed air dams and spoilers to create a ram air effect through the radiator, could you make something to create the same effect?
 

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I stand corrected, sorry bout that I need to change the oil in my eyes. At the drags the guys put a piece of aluminum that fits all of the radiator with about a 1" 90* flange to hold it away and then cut out for the electric fan or fans. It helps to work as a shroud, and the fan is mounted to the aluminum
Also you mite want to use Royal Purple coolant additive or Red Line. It will help cool at least 10* and lube the pump,the stuff works.
Heres a site for cooling problems that some other rodder put on another message.
http://www.inccn.net/techforum.htm :rolleyes:

[ April 23, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]

[ April 23, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by 1BAD80:
<strong>I stand corrected, sorry bout that I need to change the oil in my eyes. At the drags the guys put a piece of aluminum that fits all of the radiator with about a 1" 90* flange to hold it away and then cut out for the electric fan or fans. It helps to work as a shroud.
Also you mite want to use Royal Purple coolant additive or Red Line. It will help cool at least 10* and lube the pump,the stuff works.
Heres a site for cooling problems that some other rodder put on another message.
http://www.inccn.net/techform.htm :rolleyes: </strong><hr></blockquote>

The Moroso Water pump came with a thermo switch
I use it to run the fan, The water pump is wired so when the Ign is on the pump is running,it runs all the time. The setting the on switch is - turns on at 160 degrees and turns off at 140 degrees, Plus it is a sealed unit. When useing the Red Line or Royal Purple additive can I still use it with anti-freeze - 50/50 mixure????
 

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I'm sorry guys, I posted that link wrong. It should be: <a href="http://www.inccn.net/techforum.htm" target="_blank">www.inccn.net/techforum.htm</a>

Something to think about. running too lean will make you run hot at idle.
 

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You must run a fan w/a shroud period.
A puller fan is more efficient than a pusher.
Walker radiator has a excellent set-up(shroud w/a fan)
50/50 is not the best combination for cooling. Try less anti-freeze - ie 25/75 w/a water wetter.
keep us informed........Don
 

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Any idea about the freezing point with only 25% coolant? This guys in connecticut. I've never had any trouble with 50/50 in any street aplications yet. Ran 50/50 in my chevy which did high 12's in the quarter mile with a 350 LT1 and 4.56 gears in the back. I can see your point just don't know how far you can go and still handle severe cold winters.

[ April 23, 2002: Message edited by: dmorris1200 ]</p>
 

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200 degrees for a bigblock is not hot. a bigblock should run between 210 and 225. Get that electric waterpump off and trade it for a mallory unilite,crank up the timing 'till it pings and back it off 2 degrees and gas on it
 

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What is the pressure cap rating? Nothing has been said about the PSI of the cap.
Higher the poundage, the greater the boiling point of the coolant,( able to expand and take more heat ) .I live in Center East side of the state of Michigan. The Royal Purple Or Red line coolant additive does mix very well with a 50/50 mix.
Thats what I use.
Prestone antifreeze/coolant specs. are

FREEZEUP BOILOVER

50/50 -34* F +265

70/30 -84* F +276

We get cold here and get it hot here also.
I use 50/50 with Royal Purple in a 406 w/11 1/2:1 I Hope this helps you.If you need help on bending the flanges on the shroud Please email me and I'll give you some hints,LOL
G
 

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Shroud idea sounds interesting 1BAD80, anything to help direct that air through the radiator. That and a good fan that covers more area to cool more fins should be a definate start.
 

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I put A high horsepower (above 600 with NOS) 351W in a Mustang in exchange for the stock 302. The radiators are the same but the 351 had heat problems. I built a shroud for the front of radiator that completely seals all the area around it. It forces all air to go through the radiator and elimenates the possibility of the air being pushed around the radiator. The temperature immediately dropped over 20 degrees. Before you drive it, make sure you are able to hit the shroud with medium force with a rubber mallet all the way around without it coming loose, or else it will be ripped out by air pushing against it and possibly damage the radiator. Try to upgrade to dual fans, wired up to run when ignition is off until it cools the engine/coolant. Most people don't know that the engine internals can stay hot for several hours , causing the coolant to sit and boil. Like oil loses it viscosity, coolant loses its cooling properties when over heated or boiled. Keep the electric pump and hook it up to run after ignition is off like the fans, this will assure that the water/coolant circulates and cools the engine after running. Another to add and is fairly cheap in comparison, is and engine oil cooler. The oil also helps cool the engine as well as the water/coolant. Overheated oil loses viscosity and counters the water/coolant trying to keeps temperatures down. Try an engine oil cooler and if it doesn't help, it won't hurt. Good Luck!

[ May 12, 2002: Message edited by: blown69stang ]

[ May 12, 2002: Message edited by: blown69stang ]</p>
 
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