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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How long do you think a unibody car would last (before warpage) using an engine no greater than 320 hp/ 450 tq (gmpp 383ht) if not using subframe connectors?


Or perhaps the car wouldn't be affected with "only" 320 hp?




i'm not copping out:


1) i'm not convinced that subframe connectors alone really do the trick---need more such as roll cage etc. to really stiffen things up?


2) plus, it seems overly complex----the car i want to use doesn't have commercially available connectors.



3) i only want to run 11's in the 1/4 mile with this car, then move on to a different project.


Again, i'm not afraid of work and i really believe in doing things the right way, but it seems to be too much trouble for questionable benefit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry for the slow reply. The weekend is really the only true time i can respond and even that is not guaranteed.


Chevette.


And i forgot to emphasize the 444tq that the 383HT makes. Really from 2000rpm and above. That may affect the car even more than the HP?


Drag only, no street use.


i want to gear enough to run in the 11 sec bracket, but not so much to risk wheelspin---so maybe 3.73? With 11.5 x 29 slicks. Likely a custom aftermarket 12 bolt as the stock rear can't handle it. Front suspension "generally" will remain stock.




My original plan was to take two 1/4"(or thicker if necessary) metal plates, about at least 35" inches wide by about 12-14" long(or longer) and bolt or weld one to the bottom of the floor and one to the top----thus forming a "sandwich." This sandwich would be located where the rear seats would normally be. Then weld the ladder bar brackets to the bottom one. i could then use the stock floor for the coilover mounts (?).


i think have seen this setup(or similar) before on a fast nova, so i think the concept has merit. (i believe Joe Sherman's son?)



However, i'm into doing things the right way, the first time. So, if the above concept is stupid, then please indicate why so.


It may seem like i'm trying to skip steps, but for this project i just want to go bracket racing without getting too complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What car? 450 ft lbs is more then a lot of these cars came with.

Even if a specific car was produced with a v8 or big block, some of the high power cars had additional reinforcements that the lesser models didn't get. Ie, high hp Mopars.

Unibodies are predominately spot welded. They loosen up from flexing over time. As stated there can be damage. Cracked quarter panels, permanent twist, crack a windshield, etc from flexing. There is a tremendous benefit whether drag car or g-machine to installing them. Even better if they are tied into the floor pan in at least a few places. They'll take a lot of the squeaks and rattles out of a car and help the suspension work. Welded is the key. Bolt on ones just tend to wallow out the holes you drilled to install them so they don't do much.

If you don't think you car is flexing jack one front wheel up under the control arm and see if the door still opens and closes as nice. Some cars the door won't close if you can even get it open.

Yes, i have a 29 yr old GM j-body and one of the doors doesn't work---and i've never raced it. So yes, they do flex.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Think it would be helpful to know what unibody you are talking about. Some as mentioned can handle it without major issues but certainly others could be a death trap of sorts. I also question the whole 11 second project, then moving on to something else - faster I suppose, so why bother with this one to start with?



With me, i generally look at cars as projects. If i want to go faster, then it will get too complicated for this project---likely needing tube frame, struts etc. etc. etc. So i'll just start another project. Plus, i'm thinking if i want to go faster i would want to go with an altered anyways.


Why not just go tube frame now?


It's a money/time thing. Mostly time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i mean the easy thing to do would be to get a g-body, doesn't have to be monte carlo or cutlass--even a 4 door would work.


zz454 big block
ATI or equivalent quality TH-350
Bolt in aftermarket 12-bolt, 3.73 or lower
11.5 x 29 inch slicks
Driveshaft and u joints, hoop, not a big deal to get off the net these days.


This combo is 100% bolt in, no need to mess with "subframe connectors" for obvious reasons and should run in the 11 sec bracket fairly easily.


But i've fallen in love with the chevette and am not giving up on it despite better logic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
i may just go that route.


i am familiar, at least visually, with the Colt 45. But was/is this an altered, gasser, or funnycar or all 3? The tilt front end suggests gasser, but there's nothing that says an altered or fc can't have a tilt frontend?


Also, i hate to rub it in, but will anyways since i'm GM (specifically chevy) biased; The car had a chevy engine? :p
 
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