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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw a "Trucks" show yesterday and they brieftly spoke about using Arm and Hammer super washing soda in water (1tsp to 1 pint ???) with the part mostly submerged and the negative clamp from a charger attached to it. The positive lead was to be connected to another piece of metal sitting in the water but not the part. The charger was supposed to be set at 2 amps and within "48hours" the submerged portion of the part would be free of rust! Sounds great as I've worn myself ragged blasting, grinding, brushing, sanding and swearing the rust off the lower A arm on one side with very slow progress. Anybody have any insight on this? How about the frame where it would be impossible to do this? I want to get it cleaned up and painted before I press new bushings in and reassemble the front end of my 55 Ford with Granada spindles.

Thanks a lot!

Ron :welcome:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Guys!

Thanks for the info. Again, this site and all your knowledge is fantastic and a huge help! Invaluable. And you know, I've got a friend with an inground swimming pool ....................... heh heh heh
 

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Well in any case what the electolytic rust removal deal is is the following.. :pimp:

Get a large plastic tub big enough to hold the part then get some re-bar or something like that to be arranged around the perimeter of the tub..attach the positive lead from your battery charger to the re-bar..I forget if those are the anodes or cathodes but any way the positive goes there..

then hang the part in the center of the tub and attach the negative lead to the part..

Mix some Arm and Hammer Washing soda < this is important! and water and pour enough in to cover the part...turn on the battery charger and wait awhile..depending on the size of the part and how much current your battery charger puts out will tell the tale on how long it will take to get the rust off and of course how rusty the part is..

Some guys put a timer on the charger as if one forgets the part it can be evaporated to nothing if left in there too long..

The science is a bit complicated but the making of one of these is not..

One safety note use the stuff out lined as using any thing else can create a hazard..the electrolysis process does create hydrogen and oygen from breaking down the waer so good ventilation is important..don't want to here of any one blowing up their garage.. :pain:

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Charger Amperage?

Hi again, sorry to be a pest! I've got my set up for the rust removal going, actually for a few days now, with little or no change to the rust on the A Arm. I've been running my charger at 10 amps but it has the capacity to go to 55 amps. Should I run it that high?

I've got a large plastic bin (roughly 10" deep x 15" wide x 24" long) about 16 gal of water and a mixture of the Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda at 1T to every quart I believe. I used about 32 T of the Washing soda. My A Arm is mostly submerged and I've connected the negative lead to the extension protruding from the water. I have 2 - 1" x 10" black steel bolts attached to the side of the bin with c clamps and not touching the bottom or the part. I used some copper wire (thick about 1/8" diameter, unshielded) to connect from bolt to bolt. The positive clamp is on one of the bolts. It is currently running at 10A but I'm thinking of boosting that up to the max on my charger (55A START). What do you think? I don't want to burn out my charger (I doubt that it would) yet I would love to see something after running since Sunday!

I've read the link you sent thoroughly and I see it doesn't say how high to set the charger and the TRUCKS! show I saw said to run it at 2amps (which is what the meter says on the charger at all settings).

Thank you so much for the help. I really do hope to become more self sufficient as I get going on the project! Sure anxious to move it along, especially since my front end parts have arrived!
 

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use 1/2 cup to 5 gallons of water..best to mix with hot water as that helps to dissolve the material..

Another setup

try upping the setting on the battery charger..does take a bit of fiddling to get it to work..

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Sam!

I'll go kick the charger up to 55 amps and see how that seems to be working after a while. I may pour it all out and start over. I was just reading an article about it that I got on Google. The system this person uses is a bit more complex with plates all around the tub, bottom etc. Wowzers!
 

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small chance that the plating on the bolts is why.....
needs to be "raw" iron/steel....your moving "iron rust ions" from one piece of iron to the other piece of iron....iron rust won't transfer to cadmium, zinc, galvanized etc....hit them with your grinder

you need more bolts, for a whole A arm = more surface area or once "some rust" is transfered, the bolt surface has a higher resistance, slows down the transfer
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, I've got some rebar around behind my shop left over from when I built it last year. I'll dig some out this weekend and grind off around the ends and place them all around the edge of the bin with connections. That may work better. What they showed on the Powerblock Trucks! show sure was a lot easier! They showed an A arm they had done with just one piece of metal in the bin and a charger connected running at 2 amps. What they showed after 48 hours was remarkable and clean / free of rust. Probably ran it for 48 days is what I'm thinking!
 

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I've used this process for several years now. I have yet to see it remove rust completely. I will soak parts for half a day then scrub with wire brush and/or scotchbrite pad, then soak again with the battery charger on 2 amps. When its working properly you will see small bubbles coming off the part and you will get a brown foam floating around the sacrificial steel in the water solution.

I also derust small parts in muriatic acid, not recommended because of the dangerous fumes and caustic fluid, but they come out of the bucket like new and rust free. The acid solution works well when the parts are submerged in the solution, not as well when brushing on out in the open.

Never uses stainless steel for a sacrificial anode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Too Many!

I think I've got this working pretty well now. I've got 2 1" x 10" black steel bolts connected with copper wire across from each other in the tub. Lots of little bubbles, a thick rust brown colored foam forming. I am thinking the TRUCKS show I saw that said their A arm took 48 hours with 1 rod acting as an annode was either incorrect or their A Arm didn't have 52 years of rust on it!

Thanks to all that replied with the great tips! This remains to be the most fantastic source for "how to" hotrod info!

Hope to help someone else in the days ahead!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Trucks show on rust removal

Unfortunately, Trucks left a bunch out of their story. I've received several great replies since I posted and have since "perfected" my cleaner set up. I get good rust removal in about 2 days of soaking.

Thanks again to all the guys that pitched in with help! :welcome:
 

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ok try not to laugh to hard but while i was at target the other day i bought one of those kiddie blow up pools .lucky for me on my 59 ford the top half of the door unbolts so there is no upper frame .unfortunately i cant figure out how to post the pics but after a few days now the water is almost completely brown from rust. when i remove the door from the solution what do you do next. also if someone can figure out how to post the pic i will gladly email it to them so everyone can see thanks
 
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