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I just got a GTO 1964 that has been sitting in a farm for 20 years.

All of the undercarriage has surface rust and I am wanting to know the best way to get rid of the rust.

I figure I can sandblast the frame and suspension parts but what do I do with the body especially the inside of the doors?

Thanks
 

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You can strip the car down the just the bare body and have the whole thing blasted.
And correct me if i'm wrong someone, but dont a lot of guys get the whole body dipped in some sort of rust remover?
 

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on my 63 willys i uesd a rust converter called POR
it worked great.
brush it on like paint and it turns into this hard black surface.
it turns the rust into something else.
sorry for the lack of scientifical details but i just woke up.:)
BTW it'll work on that frame just fine.
 

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on my 63 willys i uesd a rust converter called POR
it worked great.
brush it on like paint and it turns into this hard black surface.
it turns the rust into something else.
sorry for the lack of scientifical details but i just woke up.:)
BTW it'll work on that frame just fine.
That stuff works great. BUT, if you're doing a full restoration, rust removal is the 1 thing you shouldn't simp on at all. Get the car blasted, or dipped, and get every bit of rust off and replace any rusted out areas with fresh metal. No point in going all out and spending a ton of miney restoring a car to still have rust. Personally I HATE rust and will not stand for having any of it on my car, even if it is "encapsulated", or "converted".
 

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Exactly, that's why its not good for a restoration

That stuff works great. BUT, if you're doing a full restoration, rust removal is the 1 thing you shouldn't simp on at all. Get the car blasted, or dipped, and get every bit of rust off and replace any rusted out areas with fresh metal. No point in going all out and spending a ton of miney restoring a car to still have rust. Personally I HATE rust and will not stand for having any of it on my car, even if it is "encapsulated", or "converted".
*skimp. *money.
I hate making spelling errors lol
 

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Pis15

I agree with bigdog! I will not stand for any rust on my car! When I started on my 56 belair, I used por15 inside the doors, the whole inside including the floor pan, the trunk and the window channels. I followed the instructions exactly. That was a few years ago and now the rust started to show through! I contacted their tech and they said that their product works and I must have done something wrong. Baloney! POR15 is a waste of time and money! I just finished striping, sanding and scraping every bit of PIS15 off my car! If they won't stand behind their product then what good is it? They said that they know what they're talking about because they're professionals. I told him that I was going to spread the word and asked him how I could post a review. I never heard from them again. Don't believe they're reviews! Get rid of the rust or cut it out and replace it! Learn from my mistakes! I spent a lot of time and money for NOTHING!
 

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I agree with bigdog! I will not stand for any rust on my car! When I started on my 56 belair, I used por15 inside the doors, the whole inside including the floor pan, the trunk and the window channels. I followed the instructions exactly. That was a few years ago and now the rust started to show through! I contacted their tech and they said that their product works and I must have done something wrong. Baloney! POR15 is a waste of time and money! I just finished striping, sanding and scraping every bit of PIS15 off my car! If they won't stand behind their product then what good is it? They said that they know what they're talking about because they're professionals. I told him that I was going to spread the word and asked him how I could post a review. I never heard from them again. Don't believe they're reviews! Get rid of the rust or cut it out and replace it! Learn from my mistakes! I spent a lot of time and money for NOTHING!
did you degrease and use their zinc phosphate metal prep as well before application?
 

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Por15

Like I said, I did everything as per they're tech sheets. I used their Marine Clean, let it sit, rinsed it with water and then let it dry. Next I used their Metal Ready (now it's called something different like prep and ready), let it sit for 15 minutes while keeping it wet, rinsed with water and let it dry completely just like they say to do. Then 2 coats of Por15. After a few years, I started seeing tiny rust bubbles in the paint. The Pis15 did not do anything except mask the problem! I took a razor scraper to it and it came off in sheets in some areas. I put stripper on it and it wrinkled the pis15 in seconds. The specs say that solvents can't hurt it but stripper takes it off in a heartbeat! The only good thing thing that I can say is that when brushing it on, it flows out nicely with no brush marks but hardly worth the the price, the time invested, and the health risks that come with it! Not to mention that it DOESN'T STOP THE RUST! It sucks to think that I risked my health only to find out that Por15 doesn't do anything more than cover the rust like any other paint does. I don't think that I mentioned that I live in a so. ca. desert climate and the car has been garaged the whole time and not exposed to any moisture. Don't waste your money on this "snake oil!" IMHO
 

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I see no reason to use it for the body/frame. Best way is to actually remove the rust. No paint or cover up will be as good.

Hinges56- i think what the stuff does is just covers it up and stops it from spreading. Not actually getting rid of it like they say.
 

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POR doesn't claim it gets rid of rust, only encapsulates it and seals it from water and air...purely physical and not chemical (which is even what they say).

Nonetheless I'm glad to hear of yet another POR failure. Sorry to hear to Hinge's luck though.
 

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ok ok
UNCLE!
ban me
shoot me
call me bad names.
i guess i didnt realize the op was capable of spending large green.(i tend t think others are poor like me)
i just thought i would tell him what i had done.
 

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Chevymon, how did you remove the rust on your door bottoms? Now do you epoxy prime them to prevent it from coming back? The problem is that it's hard to treat where 2 metals come together like where the door skin meets the inner door. I have some similar rust in other locations and I was trying to decide what to do. It's hard to tell how deep the pits are.
 

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Just my two cents worth on por 15. I've had very good results with it. I don't know how you got it off so easily. I havn't found any stripper that will cut it. I've even used a scailler to try and remove it. I don't use the prep stuff. Right out of the can works best for me.
 

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Hold on there Billyzz, Nobody is criticizing anybody! I just find it interesting how other people deal with rust! And believe me, the more that I get into my project, the more I am on a budget! When I started , I was going to do a small rust repair at the bottom of the rear window! Now the whole car is bare metal. What a can of worms! Every day I ask myself if I've gone too far?
 

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Chevymon, how did you remove the rust on your door bottoms? Now do you epoxy prime them to prevent it from coming back? The problem is that it's hard to treat where 2 metals come together like where the door skin meets the inner door. I have some similar rust in other locations and I was trying to decide what to do. It's hard to tell how deep the pits are.
My local rust stripper has an oven to bake the paint and undercoating off----and that is a very important step because I think it is sulfuric acid that some strippers use for paint removal that causes the problems you here about.

After the Paint and all is loose it gets power washed and then it goes in the phosphoric acid bath (very similar to ospho) but the problem is that they heat it so it works quicker, but then a quick dip doesn't get all the rust off. So when I get it home I use the phosphoric acid and a wire brush to finish it. The stripper charges $30 for a door. I like the electrolysis a lot better because they get it all, but the price is $85 for a door.

After its cleaned and rinsed I put a scratch pattern on it, W&G it, then tape all the holes and pour SPI epoxy in and roll the door around. I left enough in the bottom to seal the seam.

 
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