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I am new here and have been reading the posts for a week and was wondering if I could get some help. I have a 1970 Mustang coupe that I have had since 1979 ( first car). I am putting a new headliner and vinyl top and paint on the car. In the rear window chanel at the top I have a Rusted through area about 1/4 " wide by 2" long. My dad has a bead blaster and I am going to blast this area and another place that is surface rust. I know the right way is to cut it out and replace it but I don't have a welder and it is in the window channel in the curved area at the top where the rubber gasket for the window is.Can I fill this spotand with what?
I have done body work in the past ( 15 years ago) when Bondo was the thing to use, what is the best filler to use on this rusted area and other dents after they have been hammered out? What type of primer can I use as I do the body work, I am disabled so it will take me awhile to finish the car. I need a primer that I can spray as i finish a area. I might try to paint the car myself, I have painted enamil in the past but I want to use a base/ clear coat. I know I will need a new gun. I have a cheap gun to spray primer, not HVLP.
Thanks For any help.
Scott
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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if you know how to fix that by welding youre way smarter than me. you could fix it with filler and everybody here is only recommending All-metal as it's impervious to water. i just made a new panel by getting this 'glass grating like stuff from a plasterer. they have fine, with like 1/4" squares very pliable, and some really stiff crap. you could probably build a car with this stuff coated with all-metal. mesh, that's the word i'm lookin for. it's blue, any plasterer should have a free peice for you. you dont want to use any filler w/o a mesh backing (to fill a big hole that is). firmly attached first before you start covering it.
hey, you asked if "bondo" could fix it. the answer is yes. is it the right way to do it? well,NO some people think it's a cardinal sin to put even the slightest bit of bondo on a car. they can spend 40 grand having a panel pounder straighten their car. i would if i were you and had your welding skill, take it to someone with a welder you can use, like a school, and fix it the best you can and only use the filler to smooth it out. ;) here's a good rule to follow: always try to fix it with metal first, use filler as just a smoother-outer, or as only a last resort. never put anything over rust, the rust has to preferably be cut out and replaced or neutralized. especially in the area of your windshield. it is like the one spot that i would highly recommend you take it to a body shop!!!!!!

[ October 07, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]

[ October 07, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]

[ October 07, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]

[ October 08, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
 

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You could always use a fiberglass filler after you bead plast it, rough it up with some sand paper and use the fiberglass filler just like you would bondo......it won't absorb any moisture.
 

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If you are set on not welding I would use fiberglass mat and filler. First you have yo remove all the rust. That neutralizer stuff IMO is not really effective unless it is light surface rust in which cas you can sand it off easily. Anyway, if you get to the repair from the back side it is easy to make a resin/mat sandwich and slap it over the hole. If you have to put it on the top, use a hammer to slightly indent(only about 1/16" deep) the edge of the rust hole so that when you apply the "sandwich" over the hole, the end product will be level with the original hieght of the metal. If you do this right, it will block sand off nicely and all you have to do is prime and prep it. Is however takes some practice when using fiberglass.

Oh ya, make the "sandwich" on a piece of seran wrap. Let it cure with the seran on it, and then just peel it off after about 30 minutes. Sounds weird, but will work like a champ.

Chris
 

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Find a bud thats got a mig welder and weld a patch in. If you are going to fix it then you might as well fix it right to begin with. You can also rent small welders. You should be able to look in the yellow pages and find someone that does portable welding that could come there and do it. It shouldn't cost too much. Then use All-metal as Bullheimer suggested. This is waterproof and tough. Make sure you don't put it on too thick as it will take awhile to sand if doing it by hand in corners and tight places. All-metal has aluminum filings in it to add strength. After all this you should not have to ever worry about this area again. If you do find someone that does portable welding make sure you get on his good side as you'll probably have more to weld later. Advise him of this and make sure to have most of the welding ready when he makes a return trip. Keep a few cold ones in the fridge just incase. You might end up with someone that wants to hang around and help out.

Kevin
 
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