rust

i've read a lot of good stuff about ras-o-nil. i haven't had the chance to use it yet. apparently it works very well at converting rust and increasing weld strength. it's also non-toxic. they have a website but unfortunately i can't tell you their exact address. i think i found it as a link from another page. <a href="http://www.rasonil.com?" target="_blank">www.rasonil.com?</a>

JB

I have used "rust seal" by sem seems to work faily well did the frame on a caddy stopped the rust so far, but the best way is to sand blast all the rust off. Rust ionizes the metal and if you dont get it all off it will come back, so I would say that chemical products only slow down the process and doesn't cure it

If you are dealing with rust, chemical dipping is the best method. This is where the entire vehicle is dipped into a tank. This ensures that all surfaces, including seams, gets treated. It isn't cheap, but hey, what is anymore?

Sandblasting is next best, but be aware that if you use to much pressure you can warp body panels, which is a bodymans nigthmare.

I used chemical paint stripper and then sandblasted on my last project. This minimized the amount of sandblasting I had to do, basically just dusted everything off.

Go to www.eastwoodcompany.com Request a free catalog. They have a rust removal product that is real good, also they have a rust encapsulator thar stabilizes rust and prevents further rusting this is to be used in areas where rust cannot be removed. It can be topcoated with any type of paint. They also have a lot of other supplies and tools that you might be interested in. Works for me.

I use Amchem "Metalprep". It will convert the rust from ferros oxide to another chemical form which is not progressive. Interior surfaces which will not be covered, I just wire brush and paint on the Metalprep and paint with an enamel to seal it. On exposed surfaces where you intend to paint, I try to get down to a clean metal surface by sanding or sand blasting and in some cases you just have to weld in new patches or panels. I would caution you to not get involved with a project with serious and pervasive rust. It gets very time consuming and very expenive.

I have used Duro Extend for years on daily drivers and I have yet to have one rust back through providing it is properly sealed on both sides. A friend of mine even loads it into spray pump botels to spray large areas and places that are just tough to get to with a brush. Just follow the directions and wear rubber gloves and if you spray it treat it like paint and you should come out ok.

big dreams,
I have used rust-mort befor when I was in body school and it works really good. Th e thing you need to remember is the rust on it is called red rust and it keeps growing untill its killed or in other words turned to a black rust which is for lack of a better word dead. then you can clean and patch and move on in your project. they also have a spendier rout to go which is called an electro dip which I think is much faster but more costly. Good luck!

i visit the stovebolt page frequently,and they use a product called zero rust,from what they say it works really good and has its advantages.ive never used it,but i plan on it soon.the website is zerorust.com and you can go to stovebolt and look under tech tips.they had something on doing electric rust removal.thats stovebolt.com.Good
luck.

I can't believe that nobody has mentioned POR. The name stands for "Paint Over Rust". Some people recoil at the very suggestion! Now I am talking about rust in the floors or trunk or somewhere that is inpractical or difficult to replace with new metal. If it is an outside panel that will be painted then replacement is the only real answer. This stuff works!!! It comes in black, silver or clear. Use an old brush to put it on with, then throw it away. Don't get it on your skin or you are a marked man for a long time. If you do get it on you apply laquer thinner, not water (which sets it) at once.
Good luck

I have always used Corroless for my rust problems and it always worked. You can spray it on or brush it on. It's about $30 a quart and can be purchased from the Eastwood Company (1-800-557-3277), Good luck

[ January 29, 2002: Message edited by: hotrodstohell ]</p>

Only rust converter I ever used did just that . it converted the rust to something else that needed to be media blasted to get to a smooth surface anyway !

I'd just like to say to the guys who are afraid to sandblast their cars, that they should try
using another type of blasting media, like walnut
shells. By using this type of media the body panels are not warped.

I was taught by an old body man that sandblasting is the only way to totaly remove rust...I do agree with the chemical dipping process though, just heard it was expensive and I wouldn't know where to have it done. I have a blaster and do my panels one at a time. It works great...

I have used Duro Extend with great results. Both on my 57 chev pu and on newer rigs too. It can be brushed or sprayed on.

about rust remover;some of the so called rust converters are basicly muratic acid. it is cheap and when cut with water, it can make a good converter. sheetmetal shops are a source where you can find it .

YES, BY ALL MEANS RUST CONVERTERS DO WORK.
HOWEVER THERE IS A COMPANY CALLED "RESTO
MOTIVE LABORATORIES INC" WHICH MANUFACTURES A LINE OF PRODUCTS CALLED "POR-15". MAN, THE STUFFIS GOOD AND DOES EVERY THING THEY CLAIM. I HAVE USED THESE PRODUCTS IN MY OWN SHOP NOW FOR AT LEAST TEN YEARS AND TO THIS DAY THIS STUFF NEVER CEASES TO AMAZE ME.
THEY HAVE PRODUCTS FOR RUST REPAIR & PREVENTION(BELIEVE ME ONCE THIS IS APPLIED THE RUST AAAAIN'T COMING BACK), ENGINE PAINT AND EXHAUST PAINT THAT WON'T BURN OFF, GAS TANK SEALER,WOOD SEALER--THE LIST GOES ON. SOME PEOPLE CALL IT "POWDER COATING IN A CAN". ONE BIT OF WARNING, IT PERFECTLY SAFE TO USE BUT WEAR RUBBER GLOVES --IF
IT DRIEDS ON YOUR SKIN IT WON'T COME OFF FOR A COUPLE WEEKS---- "TRY IT YOU'LL LIKE IT"