Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,487 Posts
I have a 1998 s10 with a 4.3 do I need to switch frame mounts to put a v8 in it thanks

Youn need an adapter, the V8 sits about 4 inches further forward the
an the V6.

Go to the many S10 v8 swap sites and get the books from Jags That Run for this swap they have tons of info you will need.

Bogie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,309 Posts
You can use the 4.3 engine mounts for a v8 swap but from my research the 2.8 engine mounts are a lot more easier to work with and give more forward and back movement compared to the 4.3 engine mounts.

I have a 96 chevy s10 which is very close to a 98 s10 and my v8 swap is using the 2.8 mounts on the frame and is from trans dapt name brand and can be had for pretty cheap and not cost an arm and a leg. I also moved my radiator forward by cutting into the core support and customizing a shroud that is for a 4.3 to fit and work for a mechanical fan.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9906
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Those are the mounts I have on my 82. I’m in the process of correcting some issues with the engine setup. Currently trying to figure out how to rework my cooling and will probably be cutting the upper support too. Radiator and electric fans fit, but I only have about an inch clearance to the pulleys and no shroud so it runs on the warm side. Eric and Bogie have given me some great advice. Best I can tell you is if you think you might need to do something do it the first time around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going with a 350 vortec engine just have to do a little work with the ecm and Injectors wiring for them been doing a lot of reading on it don't seem to be that bad to do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went to one of the s10 sites and asked couple questions and got treated like crap from them bunch of smart ***** never go back over there at least you guys will help someone out I thank you for that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK I found motor mounts and frame mounts I'm going to use s10 2.8 mounts that are aftermarket ones that has no rubber in them. I been doing a lot of reading how to get my 5.7 vortec wired up don't look to be to hard to do. Sound like I have to get my ecm re flashed or get it re programed.
 

·
******* Professional
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
OK I found motor mounts and frame mounts I'm going to use s10 2.8 mounts that are aftermarket ones that has no rubber in them. I been doing a lot of reading how to get my 5.7 vortec wired up don't look to be to hard to do. Sound like I have to get my ecm re flashed or get it re programed.
The Vortec swap is supposed to be a nice one. Pretty much uses your existing wiring harness and all accessories with only minor mods to the wiring harness. As Eric said, the radiator is best put into the "forward" position by modification of the existing radiator support or you can buy aluminum ones that that fit "forward" without modification. This is required to clear the extra two cylinders you are putting in the front of the engine bay.

Which radiator and fans to use is highly contested. I started out with a swap radiator from Superior with two electric fans and a shroud. Wouldn't cool my 383 on the street. Went to a 7-blade flexalite metal flex fan and built a full shroud from a Summit kit, and that was better but still wouldn't cool on the street. So bought a new radiator support and cut it up to install a 1985 Corvette radiator from Jags that Run and built another shroud. Still wouldn't cool on the street. Finally went to a Taurus 2-speed fan and shroud, along with an electric water pump. Still wont' cool on the street, but I don't care so much anymore - only been racing the vehicle for some time now and it's turned into more of a racer with the door bars to climb over, and the fuel cell in the bed - but now I can cool it down between rounds. I really think those single core radiators Jags that Run recommends are for the birds. I bought their book and did everything that they said, but just can't cool my particular engine, which is 405 to the rear wheels as of last Winter. It just keeps going up and up the longer that I drive, even at speed with the Taurus fan on high and I have no inner fenders - so I really don't think I have an airflow problem. If you are making less HP (and it seems you are talking stock motor), then you probably won't have nearly so much problems with cooling unless you want to retain and run the A/C. In that case you will need to move the condenser way up front. People have done it.

For a swap without motor plates, the 2.8 frame mounts and the adjustable mounts as sold by Jags that Run or Transdapt, or any other number of sellers that require the 2.8 frame mounts are the way to go. Note that they have two height positions. Putting the motor high in front will clear the stock pan, but will give you an inappropriate drivetrain angle (trans pointing below the rear diff). This will be even worse if you have lowering blocks or springs in the rear. However, putting the front of the motor in the other holes will require you to cut off the lower part of the mount and use an aftermarket S10 Swap oil pan. Sorry but that's the only way to get the driveline angles right unless you build your own mounts and put the engine so far back that the oil pan will clear. But this causes problems with trans tunnel and header (to a-arm and firewall) clearance, and of course you need to modify the driveshaft because everything is sitting back further. My advice, just pony up an buy the Milodon S10 swap pan and oil pick up. You'll be money ahead and glad that you did. I use the Milodon pan with the engine mounts in the upper holes with the ears cut off. NO beating of the trans tunnel, Headers actually fit without rubbing on the firewall or frame (I have had both shorty's and now have fenderwells on it) and don't get crushed by the a-frame like the ones that were on my vehicle when I first bought it. If you lower your rear 3", you can use a 3/4" spacer from Jags that Run above the trans mount to keep the driveline angles correct. Also be aware that the swap mounts position the motor about 1" to the passenger side, but I believe factory is also there as a laser pointer on the trans output shaft shows that the tranny points exactly (right/left) below the pinion yoke.

So yes, the radiator setup, engine mounts, and exhaust are the critical things in a S10 swap. they all have to work out.

Good luck with yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info I'm going to run a vortec 5.7 and a 5 spd transmission I would like to put the motor as far as back as I can I want to run ac
 

·
******* Professional
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
Thanks for the info I'm going to run a vortec 5.7 and a 5 spd transmission I would like to put the motor as far as back as I can I want to run ac
Manual trans complicates things immensely for exhaust. Why few people do it. Better to go with automatic, if vehicle had one originally. If S10 was original 5-speed I would make sure you want to do this swap before you get started. You won't get A/C and a radiator in stock location to work with a V8. They don't go back that far. In a S10 the engine goes where the engine fits, and where everything attached to it clears!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks mine is only a 2 wheel drive I know exhaust would be hard to do with the fuel tank in the way that is why I thought of going with side pipes most of the headers they say they don't fit manual transmission I will have to call to make sure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
It’s a first gen, but here’s the clearance with the engine mounted all the way back. My radiator is just a hair too big to recess, so I’m waiting for a non rainy day to pull it out and clearance the upper support. This is how I got it btw and it runs about 215. I want to find a Taurus fan and shroud.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
******* Professional
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
Thanks mine is only a 2 wheel drive I know exhaust would be hard to do with the fuel tank in the way that is why I thought of going with side pipes most of the headers they say they don't fit manual transmission I will have to call to make sure
My S10 is a 2WD. My Blazer is a 4WD. I've been talking about the S10.

You can either run a single 3" pipe down the passenger side, or cross the driver's side exhaust to the right side, right behind the trans and run both pipes through either a single muffler or dual mufflers. Both Summit and Jegs have such a kit to fit the Hedman shorty's. I used to have that setup. Again, you will have problem with manual trans. You will probably end up with some kind of stock cast exhaust manifolds with a manual trans (Camaro of some year I believe works - Google is your friend) and can run things down the passenger side the same way but will need some custom work. I emplore you to not do side pipes on a S10. People laugh at them.

Problem with multiple core radiators is that they get thicker and give less clearance. If you are going to retain A/C then you need to figure out where the condenser will go before you fit a radiator and you will probably best retain the clutch type belt driven fan. I think the Jags that Run book addresses that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't care about side pipes either but I know with a 5 speed it is going to be hard to do I been looking for headers they fit automatic only I will have to call and find out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,309 Posts
I once ran side pipes on a 86 s10 2wd and it was a pain to hook up exhaust to them with full length headers and I ended up having holes cut in the fame to get the exhaust through to hook them up. After many burnt legs and hated having the holes in the frame they were removed and the frame welded back up and never used again. They can be made to work better then what I had them setup as but to me it was more trouble then what they were worth.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top