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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this is not going to work.

Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Car


I thought I could adjust it so it would not be "that bad".

But it is just going to have to much bump steer even adding a idler etc.

So it is all getting ripped out and starting fresh.

This is a 94 s10 frame stock control arm G body spindles. The frontend has around 800lbs of sprung weight. This has around a 60% rear bias.

I am thinking a pinto rack off rock auto(something easy to replace) then make my own mounts and links.

But I also dont want to run into a bump steer. Also I dont know which rack will even get me close.

Any one have recomendations on what works? Perferably something you installed on a s10 frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well there is this kit that I am considering.


Seeen a few videos on the install and they went easy enough. No actual testing shown if the kit resulted in bumpsteer.

It also uses a custom rack which I am hoping is not custom just a uncommon year or such so I can get a replacment if the company disapears/changes owners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes.
I am just going with the trz kit.
Get the thing close to perfect then
I will install adjustable height tie rod ends on the spindles to fine tune it further.

Not cheap. But what I should have from the start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Those A arms are as low as they can go. I am really happy with how the spring rates are currently and know with a few adjustments with shocks and traction aids I can have the suspension perform dang near perfect.

I think the rack with level tie rods then adjustable ends will lessen bump steer to the equivlant of a factory steering box and idler setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A rack from a "rear-steer" (behind the axle) Intrepid should be super-entertaining in a front-steer application. Picture it. Of-course you could re-do your whole thing and put the steering behind the front axle, swapping to early-F spindles with steering arms made for that, but then you'd need a rack with a lot of width which might be a Chevy Celebrity or something. It would be good to look into basic conventional steering/suspension design a bit more to understand what needs to go on. With that, If what you want for your own reasons is for the a-arms to be angled down at rest then the tie rods have to angle down the same. The arcs created during travel have to be working with each other.
Oh yea.
Back to the TRZ rack kit.

I dont think I can do much about that lower control arm angle. I really dont want to mess with the spring rate.

Need to play with some things this weekend and get things along these lines.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am starting fresh on the steering.

I assumed the drivetrain in place would be enough to figure out the angles.


But this is going to be rear weight biased somewhere between 58 to 65%. I really should finish off the cab 80 lbs, electrical 30lbs, exhaust 60lbs, add 120lbs of coolant and fuel, etc to get all the weight set up to find the correct tie rod lengths and angles.

All of the above is going to add more rear weight bias which will slightly change the at rest height.

Which will affect the compression amount before the wheels lift off the ground.

I am going to push it out of the barn this weekend. I will check some instant center angles with string and floor jack to get a rough idea on tie rod lengths and angles. But I will wait on ordering that rack till I have a better understanding and baseline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looking at unisteers setup
Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Automotive exterior Tool Auto part


I had what I am hoping is not to crazy of an idea.
Art Font Rectangle Auto part Monochrome



Take basically any manual rack and instead of mounting it 3ish inches off the engine crossmember mount it flush.

Then make a U shaped bracket out of 1/8" angle (with 1" top and bottom flat pieces)
Have the top and bottom of that U ride on/against a flat piece of steel with a layer of grease(shown with Xxxx's) keeping it from moving as the suspension moves.

Then have two gusseted tabs in the front of the U shaped piece that the tie rods connect to.

Worth playing with or nuts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have a metro I am currently playing with as a A/B commuter I will have around 3k into it(lots of things updated) and it will pay for itself within 2 years on gas mileage alone. Once thats out of the heated garage I will park my 91 s10 in the barn and push the 94 into the heated garage to continue working on it.

I am going to bite the bullet and go with a rack from TRZ on the 94. The metro is taking a bit longer then expected as I dig deeper I find more things that really should be addressed. Playing with the freaking headlights currently and ... cheap wiring is fun.

But yea TRZ rack is the plan on the 94. I am cheap and really don't want custom stuff on the 94. But there are some areas like brakes and steering where just paying for something where the engineering has been done makes sense.
 
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