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I have a 400 sbc I'm about to start building. I want to build a 427 stroker but have read that it's to risky. It's a stock block. Should I stroke it out? Or just build a 406? I'm looking to have 500+ HP any suggestions would be awesome. I don't wanna spend the money on a stroker motor just to blow it up. But if there is a safe stroker application on a stock 400 block I'd love to know.
 

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What is the casting number on your 400 block? Is it 509, 511, or the other one? From what I understand 500 horsepower is easy to make with a 383, or a 400. But there's going to be a lot of questions asked here.
I'm definitely following this thread, because I want to learn how to make 500 horsepower on a 400 cubic inch small block Chevrolet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will have to double check the casting number tomorrow but I looked at it when I first got it and I believe it's the 511. I guess I really just wanna know the safest stroker application for a 400 block if there is one. Or if it would just be smarter to not stroke it?
 

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3.75 is safe. Is the block an original bore?
Actually it really doesn't matter. As long as you don't go over 4.155. Bigger than that you are better off going with an aftermarket block.
 

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get a Dart block and do wat u want...stock 400 block is schit...you can do 400-450 w/o stroking it...leave it at that....or make a Dart 406/427 w right heads/cam make 550+ but gotta have compression...11.5

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Dang. I just build a 400 block. And now I want to do an SHP block. It's all up to you, do you want to do it once? Or do you want to do it twice?
 

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Additional cube bigger than 406 stroker in a stock block is a risky proposition, block strength isn't the best and if you do have a 511 block that is 4 bolt mains, the weakest of the stock 400 block bunch.
Reason it is weakest as those extra main bolts are drilled in a poor spot due to the 400 having larger main journal size than 350 blocks...those extra main bolts got drilled in a spot on the main web that is already too thin, putting a bolt hole in that area didn't help.
 

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If you want a 500hp 427 your better off starting with a 454.
Lots of tech on the best methouds and parts to use on here and other places.

I am not a fan of high reving V engines. When stuff breaks it does it in a violent way.

Just so much weight and things not doing work at the higher rpm. Lots of cash to do it right.

If you want to rev to 7000rpm safely(cheaper) start with a 4 cylinder or rotary(multible rotor) and add boost. A safe 500hp will be easy.
 

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Good friend runs a 460/554 BBF in his pulling truck , redline is 9200 , its been together 5 seasons now , 1000 HP plus !
 

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Good friend runs a 460/554 BBF in his pulling truck , redline is 9200 , its been together 5 seasons now , 1000 HP plus !
Sounds like a 8-14k engine. I imagine the thing has 2-4 in the heads alone.

When someone says they want a safe engine my mind thinks of a engine that will cost less then 5k finished and be somewhat streetable. Not tore down once a year.
 

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I see they make this stuff for filling the lower half of blocks, suppose to strengthen the bottom end, i do not know
anyone that has used it or it would be any good for your application, some of the guys on here could add their opinion on
the stuff, just a thought
 

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Sounds like a 8-14k engine. I imagine the thing has 2-4 in the heads alone.

When someone says they want a safe engine my mind thinks of a engine that will cost less then 5k finished and be somewhat streetable. Not tore down once a year.
14k might cover the heads
 

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You can't run a filled block on the street very well - works okay in a drag application but the heat gets up pretty quick as you are just cooling the area around the top of the cylinders. Might be able to 1/2 fill one and get by but I would talk to someone that has done it.
Again - it's application of the engine. All out racer, better off selling the block and going aftermarket. A decent street build, just bore it and live with a stock throw. I never truly figured out what GM thought they were accomplishing with this one anyway. Cooling issues, shorter rods, head surfaces that require a lot of attention - beats me - maybe using up parts?
 

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Me and the little brother experimented with block fill. He’d get 1 pass ( 1/4 mile) and the block would crack. No biggie, he got the blocks for free. He had a deal with the local wrecking yard. He’d tear them down, give them back all but the block. The 383 craze had just started. Everybody wanted cranks.
A couple100 bucks in gaskets and boring and a new motor was ready to go.
Tried filling the blocks.
Great success!
Made 2 passes before they cracked. Didn’t matter how full you filled them.
Gave up!
Got smart!
Built a 468 bb.
 

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14k might cover the heads
14K in the heads and only and 554" Ford only makes just over 1000 hp?? Seems like it ought to bew in the 2000 Hp range for that much head expense

Cousin has a Shafiroff 582" BBC in his mud race Jeep, makes right at 1080 HP after recent refresh at Shafiroff....it was just $14.5K new complete carb to oil pan, ...and $5K for the refresh at the 7 year mark. He turns that about 8800 rpm.
 

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I see they make this stuff for filling the lower half of blocks, suppose to strengthen the bottom end, i do not know
anyone that has used it or it would be any good for your application, some of the guys on here could add their opinion on
the stuff, just a thought
Block filler, Rok Block, Hard Blok...take your pick. There are epoxy based and machinery grout(hydraulic cement) based products.
They can help, but won't perform miracles. Even a half fill on the street requires a big radiotor, good pump, and an engine oil cooler if you are going tocruise it or long highway drive it. Piston to bore clearance needs a little more room. Piston squirters in the crankcase would be another good idea...I have not tried that yet though. All I've done is the short fill and cooler routine, works fine for street/strip and less than 75 mile drives in one go.
 
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