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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help for my understanding please. This has happened ones but I like to know how I can prevent it repeating.

I have Saginaw 4sp, for most of it I think it shifts fine, never pop out of gear, does not grind, I think it is healthy.
No problem when driving normally.

I have Indy shifter, I think it’s generic, I think linages are generic to the Saginaw.

what happened was I was taking a slow corner and must have shift into 2nd … I double clutch all the time.

it seems the shifter would not pop out of second into neutral. This has not happened before. The clutch is pressed.

so I shut off the engine.

it feels like stuck in 2nd gear

had a friendly guy come and with a combination of rocking the car, me stomping on clutch and wiggling the shifter it somehow pops into neutral and normal. I drove it around and it was normal now.

Could someone help and explain what happened and what caused it?

Should I look at replace, renew linkages?
Should I replace the Indy shifter?

I kinda like the Saginaw so won’t be replacing it unless I really have to.

thanks all for your help
 

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More than likely it is your linkages.
I can't help in how to fix it, but have had the same problem many years ago.
Mine would even get stuck in 2nd, and 3rd gear at the same time. I could fix it by rocking the car and moving the levers underneath. It was dangerous, but only a Vega so it was easy to roll away from me. It was a major pain when it happened, so I learned how to shift without it binding up. This was in the early 90s before I ever used a computer.

There are really smart guys on here that can help, so just hang tight!
 

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I had something similar happen with the OEM shifter in my Vega. Ironically I swapped in a Hurst Indy shifter to fix it. What I would do first in your situation would be to get under the car and verify the condition of the bushings in the linkages and verify the neutral setting on the shifter itself. The bushings could be worn enough to throw things out of wack.

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I do not know what an Indy shifter is but I have experienced this and it was the shifter. It was loose and sloppy.
The Indy shifter was the cheaper version of a hurst Style shifter. Not precision built and without any shift adjustment stops on the main body. Prone to wear out quickly. A little harder to keep alignment of the shift arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all for your experience and insights .. ... I really needed it and appreciated it.

So .. I am going to adjust the linkages and see. Putting the shifter in neutral with a pin and check / adjust the bushings .. etc .. seems pretty easy to do.

Now, ... I think I will keep the Saginaw 4sp box for now

Do I

Change the Indy shifter to Hurst Competition plus ???

Is the Indy (now purchased by Hurst) generic GM shifter That Bad ???

Does anyone know what I need to swap out the Indy shifter to Hurst Competition plus? .. I am thinking I need

1. The Hurst Comp + shifter (obviously)
2. Hurst mounting bracket ????
3. Hurst shifting linkages

and would it be a pretty much straight bolt in swap ??? It's looking like $500USD ~ish
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I do have a slight suspiction leaning towards the issue being the Indy Generic GM shifter as
1. It is pretty floppy and lose
2. The neutral is a bit lose and floppy, the sideways motion is a bit out if it's not put back in the right spot. (I am sure I am not explaining this that well)

I had previously being told that is just how the Saginaw 4sp shifts and you want the shifter to be floppy so it doesn't get stuck. I now doubt that advice ????
 

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I’d try to adjust it and lube it first. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit for a pin. Buy a hurst pit pack like this for new bushings.
what mount do you have on the trans for the shifter?
pic helps.


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ah, yes the pit Pack is great, I think I will get them anyway.
By the looks of it, the shifter don't look bad ???

It seems if I add a screw at the front do I get a stop screw ... like Hurst Comp plus ???

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Doesn’t look bad.
Spray it clean with carb and choke cleaner followed by some wd40.
‘Slide the 1/4 inch bit in the alignment hole and line it all up.
‘Don’t worry about a stop screw. They’re mostly there to limit over shifting with a hurst and better trans like a Muncie. Saginaw can’t handle too much high rpm speed shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Doesn’t look bad.
Spray it clean with carb and choke cleaner followed by some wd40.
‘Slide the 1/4 inch bit in the alignment hole and line it all up.
‘Don’t worry about a stop screw. They’re mostly there to limit over shifting with a hurst and better trans like a Muncie. Saginaw can’t handle too much high rpm speed shifting.
Cool ... yeah I defn won't do any speed shifting .. I am granny shift and that is fine :D
 

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I assumed people know this, but i'll mention it. Indy shifters; are a Hurst product line. If you wanted to you could drill the end plates, and double-nut some bolts to act as shifter stops.
I don't know if there was a Competition/Plus for your application or not. However, the quality of BRAND NEW Hurst stuff is problematic at best. And while I don't sell shifters, every one of my 300 gearboxes or so that leaves here ends up with a shifter on it at some point. Usually I recommend people recondition a used shifter with vintage parts or purchase a reconditioned one from Crash Enterprises (Eric) or The Shifter Doc (Scott). I don't make a dollar on these recommendations. However, getting good quality shifters means the likelyhood of gearbox issues after installation, is significantly reduced.
 

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The danger is it leaves a gear engaged when you pull it for the next gear. If it goes to another gear and you release the clutch the cluster, engaged gears and maybe the input shaft, it’s big bearing and possibly the main case are gone.

This is a ptroblem you need to very carefully investigate before something more disastrous happens.

Bogie
 

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I do know that the Hurst parts are somewhat interchangeable. I bought the Indy shifter for the Saginaw in my Vega, which was a HUGE improvement over the worn out OEM shifter. I later used the Indy's mounting bracket and linkages with the Competition Plus shifter when I put a Saginaw in dad's '57. I was having what seems to be the same problems as the OP with the OEM shifter in my Vega.
 

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The danger is it leaves a gear engaged when you pull it for the next gear. If it goes to another gear and you release the clutch the cluster, engaged gears and maybe the input shaft, it’s big bearing and possibly the main case are gone.

This is a ptroblem you need to very carefully investigate before something more disastrous happens.

Bogie
Would the clutch have anything to do with it? Once two gears are simultaneously engaged while the car is rolling, there'll be carnage. Solid connection from the gearbox to the tires, along with all the rolling weight/force behind it...

Russ
 

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Problem is caused misadjusted or worn linkage/bushings and/or misadjusted shifter. . What is happening is trans is being engaged into two gears at one time, thus locking up the output and/or input shafts. IOWs it locks up the trans where nothing turns. Bent shifter forks can cause similar too IINM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am gonna adjust the linkages.
Thinking back it was low speed turn, I think
I pushed in clutch shift to 2nd, it may be a bad shift.
I might have half released the clutch.
Then I want to take it out of second and I can’t
I didn’t release the clutch until the car stopped
Then I released the clutch but still stuck in second
So I turned off the engine .. trying clutch few more times and moving the car by rocking it front and back … some sort of combination made it pop out 2nd and all back to normal.
 
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