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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am painting an engine compartment piece with single stage black that I am also clearcoating. Ive used 3 wet coats of single stage black and then two coats of high solids clear. Ive let the clear dry for 24 hours (70-80 deg). Then Ive wet sanded with 600 grit, then used a 3M finishing film disc of 800 grit. Then a 3M finishing film disc of 1200 grit and then a piece of Norton wet paper at 1500 grit. I then polished with a wool pad using Meguiers #105.

I realize I need to do a couple more steps of polishing but teh visible sanding scratches are quite noticeable and when you look close up at the polished area the sanding scratches are plainly visible. I think they are some of the 600 wet scratches still showing through.

I went and isolated a seperate area on the same part and went through my sanding steps again taking more care with each grit to get a thourough sanding and polish with Meguiers #105......still the same visible scratches.

Any ideas on where I might have gone wrong or what I can do to make sure the sand scratches are removed.? This is seriously frustrating. :(
 

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I start with 1000 grit 1200,1500,2000,and finish with 2500. One problem I would have is that the wool pad would leave scratches. I never use a wool pad. I use a foam pad with a better result. I would sand with 600 grit, reclear and be sure to clean with wax and grease remover than tack and lay down the clear. Let cure for a week. Wash your pads out very well. Old compound is hard like sand and is in the pads. When you start to buff, get the pads damp. This will keep the compound from drying out and becoming sand particles. You tube has a lot of how to buff videos. Some are training videos used in the 3M class rooms.

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh man.....THanks for helping me out with this. I'm gonna have to do a better job of being more meticulous at trying to keep the dirt etc out of the clear.

What if I cant get the "trash" out with only 1000 grit? :rolleyes:
 

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The trash will come out. You might need to start over, but I will come out. Or you will be pissed at every car show. SAND-IT. Paint booths are a touchy subject, BUT they are the key. I recommend purchasing METAL TO PAINT. This video is by Rich Evens and it will change your life. You are welcome to call me on the phone. PM me for the number. Once you learn the steps, Everyone with 100 miles will be wanting you to paint for them. It is just a system. NO TRICKS

Kirk :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help Kirk....I will look into that vid and the youtube vids....

I just went outside and picked up a different underhood piece that I did 3 coats black SS and two coats HS clear on. This time I used 1000 wet, 1500 wet and 2000 wet with a Dura block rubber block. Then buffed with MeGuiars #105 with a 3" wool pad and then MeGuiars #82 polish with a 3" foam pad.... The finish came out better than above.....but still some slight sanding scratches as you look at the thing up close.

All I can think of is that maybe the clear is still "soft" and scratches too easily and I need to let it cure for a longer time as Kirk said above or that my MeGuiars #105 with the wool pad buffing process is just not working as it should.
 

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Here are some tools that I purchased to help me with the color sanding.

Ingersoll Rand D.A.

00850 Hookit II Finishing Film Discs 1500 Grit (P1500)

02066 Hookit II Trizact Blending Discs 1000 Grit (P1000)

They also make that Dics in 4000 Grit.

I purchased all of theses supplies from Auto Body Depot. That is where the video came from.

I hope you nail this thing.

Kirk :)
 

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they also do trizact in 3000

what i usually do is 2000 grit all the crap out then 2500 over whole panel and hit with 3000 trizact on da ..........this will leave a semi gloss finish ...as soon as you hit it with the buffer it will come right up, usually 2-3 passes and they should be gone

never used megs 105 but would like to try it :D

i am using menzerna 203s with a orange pad with great results

time before you buff os down to what reducer you use ..... if i use slow on air dry i wait 2-3 days

with fast usually next day

with gloss i usually alow a couple of extra days before buffing
 

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Start with 1200 or 1500 and you should be fine, if you'll pardon the pun. :rolleyes:

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
One my clear coat I didnt use any reducer. And have been buffing after 24 hours dry time.

Well.....I went a tried a virgin spot again and this time started wet with 1500 grit and then wet with 2000 grit. I sanded in one direction so I could recognize the scratches after buffing. I washed my wool pads and hit the spot with the MeGuiars 105.....well the meguiars 105 didnt take out all the sand scratches. I hit the area 3 seperate times (switching from a wool pad to a foam pad to see if there was a difference between using the pads) with the 105 and still left the 1500 scratches or 2000 ....whatever they are.

So my 105 has been sitting for a year so I shook it up in the bottle for about 1 minute....tried again didnt really improve.

I think my 105 isnt doing its job.....can this compound go bad (lose its abrasiveness?) after a year?

I used it a year ago after I painted my steering column black and thought the 105 worked well.
 

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esahlin

I do not believe that the 105 is the problem. When I wet sand I use a drop of dawn soap in a squirt bottle to keep the surface slick. Besure to use a soft block and soak the paper before sanding. Do not push down hard. Let the paper do the work. High quality paper is a must. I take it to 2500 grit. When I run in to a problem like this, I will go to 4000 grit and if possible use a DA sander. If you ever use the Hookit system with just 1500 grit you will never go back. Taking it to 4000 grit with a DA will take out everthing. If you still can not get it, call me. There is more than likely something we are forgetting. It is hard to nail it all down in a post.

Hope this helps
Kirk :thumbup:
 
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