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SEE HOLES IN YOUR FLOOR BOARD FIBER GLASS IT ITS LIGHTER AND WHEN PAINTED IT LOOKS STOCK 2 SEPERATE LAYERS AND ITS WATER PROOF AND LIGHT WEIGHT AND VERRY STRONG IT WILL CONFORM TO WHATS LEFT OF YOUR FLOOR AND LOOK LIKE ITS SUPOST TO BE THERE A QUICK FIX AND RELIABLE BESIDES ITS UNDER YOUR CARPET ANS FIBER FLASS WONT RUST OUT AND SEALS ANY LILL PIN HOLE :pimp:
 

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Why are you yelling?

Thanks for the tip, tho :cool: .

Wish I was cool with fiberglass under my 270 pound foot, tho...
 

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Fiberglass won't rust out but it will trap any moisture between it and the steel and the floor will rot away, then the glass "patch" just cracks and falls out on the ground.
Not really a good idea.
 

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if done right it wont crack and fall out, just clean up the rusted area with rust remover and\or treatment and seal everything agaist mositure

multiple layer are a must though, fiberglass gets its rigidity from the structure
and as always if you dont know about it, read a book :thumbup:
 

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Front drivers floorboard on '77 up 123 Chassis Mercedes Benz are fiberglassed over, they are the only section of floorboard that does not get soft over time.
 

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10secvega said:
Has anyone tried POR-15 and fiberglass mat?Suppose to work really god for pin holed floor pans.
I did it on a cheap guys 57 Chevy with a floor pan that looked like a a million points of light. He wanted it fixed in 4 hours so I did.

We sandblasted it, por 15 coated it and put 2 layers of light cloth over it. It has stood up for almost 10 years now with no problem.

Don't use mat, the binder won't dissolve in the por 15 and you won't get it to lay down right.

If you brush a coat of por 15 and let it get tacky, you can lay the cloth into it and it will stick where you put it. Then you can paint over it with a flow coat of por 15.

I won't use regular polyester resin for sticking glass to steel, it doesn't stay stuck. There are resins that will stick glass to properly prepared steel, check your auto body supply store.

No it isn't the exactly right way to fix a floor, but it does work if you want a cheap and dirty way out..

later, mikey
 

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That's how we finished the floor in our 54 ford. First the body shop man welded in all new metal then top coated it with por-15 on both sides and on the inside layed down the thin mat in the wet por-15 then continued to dab the mat until saturated with por-15. Let it dry it's dang near bullet proof, the car would probably float if driven off in a lake. POR-15 rocks.Brian :thumbup:
 
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