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turbo packard 288

I have experience turbocharging my 292 straight 6 in my work truck and would like to duplicate my approach to a rebuilt Packard 288 I have found. There are no 9 bearing units around here. I will fab the exhaust manifold as a tuned length purge welded 304 ss tubular unit divided for the split scroll t-03 turbo (or t-04, I will get advice on that). The split scroll and small diameter tube header develop boost at very low rpm. I will fab up an aluminum intake for two ipsco 225 propane carbs in a blow through set up. The 288 and my 292 are both develop gobs of torque at low rpm. The same approach should work, with more vintage looking fab work this time. Boost will be limited to 8-10 psi. My questions are crank whip related. The 288 will be in a smallish 50's English car with an automatic and used as a cruiser. I don't race or do burnouts. I doubt that the 288 would ever see 4000rpm. I know turbos are easy on the bottom end but am I safe? Is there a better harmonic balancer available or can I adapt one? Do I use custom light weight pistons and aluminum rods (this works on high rpm 292's)? Also, I need to install hardened seats is there plenty of meat in the block for that (I assume so)? Are there larger S.S. valves available for the 288? How much would you guess a 288 weighs without the manifolds? I would appreciate anything else you can recommend not mentioned here. I hope I am not killing your with my questions. Thank you Mr Turbopackman.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the plumber said:
I have experience turbocharging my 292 straight 6 in my work truck and would like to duplicate my approach to a rebuilt Packard 288 I have found. There are no 9 bearing units around here. I will fab the exhaust manifold as a tuned length purge welded 304 ss tubular unit divided for the split scroll t-03 turbo (or t-04, I will get advice on that). The split scroll and small diameter tube header develop boost at very low rpm. I will fab up an aluminum intake for two ipsco 225 propane carbs in a blow through set up. The 288 and my 292 are both develop gobs of torque at low rpm. The same approach should work, with more vintage looking fab work this time. Boost will be limited to 8-10 psi. My questions are crank whip related. The 288 will be in a smallish 50's English car with an automatic and used as a cruiser. I don't race or do burnouts. I doubt that the 288 would ever see 4000rpm. I know turbos are easy on the bottom end but am I safe? Is there a better harmonic balancer available or can I adapt one? Do I use custom light weight pistons and aluminum rods (this works on high rpm 292's)? Also, I need to install hardened seats is there plenty of meat in the block for that (I assume so)? Are there larger S.S. valves available for the 288? How much would you guess a 288 weighs without the manifolds? I would appreciate anything else you can recommend not mentioned here. I hope I am not killing your with my questions. Thank you Mr Turbopackman.
If you're not going to have the engine over 4000 rpm, I wouldn't worry about anything. And if you're going to run it on Propane, I HIGHLY recommend hardened seats, as I have a 320 V8 Packard that was used as an irrigation engine on propane and one of the exhaust valves was 1/2" down into the port!
Stainless valves can be custom made, but you're looking at a lot of $$ and I wouldn't know where to begin to find them, but I'm sure someone out there will make them if you send them a couple as examples.
Harmonic balancer, well, that's easy. Buy an internally balanced Ford 302 balancer or even a Ford 300 6cly balancer, the shaft's the same size, but it HAS to be internally balanced.
Aluminum rods, good luck. The rods on a 288 are 7 & 15/16" long. The rods on my 356 are 9 & 1/4"!
Pistons on a turbo motor should be forged, and I wouldn't worry about weight. When you get your rotating assembly all figured out and the parts bought, spend the extra to have it balanced, because even the heaviest forged pistons will be lighter than the stock ones.

Bottom line is, you should have no problems if you build it correctly and take time in having everything balanced properly. In my engine, I'm going overkill on the machine work and the balancing because I want it to last. The crank is over 40" long, and that's a LOT of material to be slapping around, which is why I went with the 9 main versions. But I would say at less than 4000 rpm, you'll have no trouble with it at all. Oh, and the old heavy ***** weighs 900+ lbs with manifolds, so I'd say at least 800 lbs without manifolds. Better reinforce that frame a little!
 

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288 turbo

Thanks for the reply, I will follow your recommendations. I will post some photos of my Grumman and turbo manifold. You should get a kick out of it. You may think me a bit of a nut for this but the car for this 288 is a 56 Nash metropolitan. The body will receive a 8" stretch between the door and front wheel opening, complete chassis with tube a arms and 9''rear. I may also chop the roof 2" and kick up the rear fenders. For an example look on ebay for "metrorail" hot wheels. I want to do a more subtle version of that. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't think you're nuts at all, as I have that exact same Hotwheels and was thinking of doing exactly what you're doing when I first seen that car about 10 years ago!

Everyone thought I was nuts when I talked about it then though, so be prepared for it! Personally, I LOVE IT!

And yes, please post some pics of your manifold, I'm curious to see how close it is to what I'm doing. But you're only doing a single turbo, right? I'm using two, with Bosch fuel injection and 4 SU carb's as throttle bodies. Should be rather visually stimulating!
 

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Ansen aluminium heads for 288-359 Packard 8

I've been trying to locate the manufacturer that is reproducing what I believe is a repop of the fined aluminum head of the early 50's.
Any assistance that can be offered would be greatly appreciated.
:thumbup:
 
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