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Ok, I need some recommendations for a sbc 350 build up. This motor needs to provide ~700 hp under forced induction (20+ psi will be available).

Currently I have a 350 from a '78 pickup, high nickel block, 4-bolt mains, never been bored. Assuming it's ok after magnafluxing, I imagine it would make a reasonable foundation.

I'm aiming for about 8:1 compression. I'm basically looking for a crank, pistons, rods, heads combination to put me in that range. I realize I'll need a forged rotating assembly, but I'm confused when it comes to chamber volume vs. piston dish vs. rod length. Not to mention quench height considerations.

The more I look at the insane number of combinations available, the more confused I get. :)

Anyhow, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

-Rich
 

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MIGHT TRY SCAT FOR THE CRANK AND RODS, TALK TO THE TEC FOLKS THEY HAVE A LOT OF GOOD INFO, FOR THE PISTONS I WOULD USE KB'S, AND FOR THE HEADS AIR FLOW RESEARCH
THE FOLKS ARE GOOD AT HELPING MATCH PARTS, ANOTHER THOUGHT IS TO USE THE FOLKS AT YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP.THEY HAVE MOST LIKELY HAVE SEEN THIS COMBO BEFORE
GOOD LUCK
ROB
 

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With that much power and boost, I would go with a good forged piston, like JE. They have some good blower specific pistons for 5.7" rods and 3.48 or 3.75 stroke (350 or 383).If you are getting a new rotating assembly, you might as well go for the 383. As suggested before, I think Scat has some packages that include rods, crank, pistons, etc.
 

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I've been hearing that Keith Blacks aren't all they've been hyped up to be. Anyone want to clarify before he starts putting them in such a high stress buildup?
 

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I'm in the final stages of the same build, using Eagle 4340 parts, 3.75 crank, H beam rods and JE pistons with a 31cc dish, set .010 in the hole and I went with the Milodon splayed 4-bolt mains on an .010/.020 block, .030 over. With Dart 64cc heads i'm looking at about 8.4 c.r. I need it to be relatively treatable and bought a Lunati 50139 solid roller with their pop up lifters and CompCams 1.6 rockers. That'll give me about .525 lift on both sides. Blown motors like split duration, a little more on the exhaust side and not a lot of duration at that. This cam has 282/290 I believe. It makes sense that in a blown motor, duration on the intake side isn't necessary as the blower is stuffing it pretty well. Additionally, I'm told quench isn't nearly as critical with a blower.

20# of boost? Centrifugal or turbo? Aluminum heads help detonation but certainly hope you plan on "O" ringing and running racing gas!

Good luck and get out the ole' checkbook! Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #8
68NovaSS said:

<<snip>>

20# of boost? Centrifugal or turbo? Aluminum heads help detonation but certainly hope you plan on "O" ringing and running racing gas!

Good luck and get out the ole' checkbook! Larry
This is actually a turbocharged application. Although 20 psi should be available, I believe I'll only need 15-17 psi to be in the 700 hp range, assuming the engine can put out close to 350 hp NA.

About O-ringing, does anyone have experience using Flatout's rubber coated copper gaskets with in an o-ringed setup? Curious about how they hold up...

Thanks.

-Rich
 

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For 700 horses, Id have the block oringed at the machine shop. Get the best alluminum heads you can buy and a stud girdle might be a good idea to. For the money you will spend, Id go with a roller setup, big headers n exhaust and a nice ignition setup to. 700 is really pushing a stock block, but it can be done. Hg
p.s. skip the KB's and go JE or ross.
 
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