[Jeepbulit2021]

I have a sbc 350 dose not have any guts when you put it in drive. Park and neutral sounds awesome starts up with out a problem hot or cold. Timeing seems to be ok. Idk if it's the transmission or the intake or what it cold be. Anyone have any suggestions.

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

How many miles, my opening shot based on idles well dies in gear, has no power is to consider the timing set is worn out and cam is falling out of synch with the crank, which is not the same as correcting the ignition timing that is independent to cam to crank synchronization. As far as the distributor is concerned the cam is nothing more than a jack shaft.

Bogie

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

How many miles, my opening shot based on idles well dies in gear, has no power is to consider the timing set is worn out and cam is falling out of synch with the crank, which is not the same as correcting the ignition timing that is independent to cam to crank synchronization. As far as the distributor is concerned the cam is nothing more than a jack shaft.

Bogie

not sure on miles guy I got it from said it was a 383 stroker come to find out it wasn't.just bored over .030 with a 350 crank i put a bigger cam in it.

 

[RWENUTS]

What cam did you put in it?
What’s your initial timing?

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

Well big cams lead to more complicated problems, always the possibility that the cam got miss timed the Chevy process of both timing makes on the gears pointing up gives enough space for miss alignment. This is best done with the crank gear at noon and the cam gear at 6 , this has the marks directly pointing at each other. This also has the engine set for number 6 firing so one more full turn in the clockwise direction gets it back to both gear marks at noon position and number 1 firing.

Big cams move the power and torque bands up but more further up costs a bottom end reduction, here the use of more compression is useful in recovering some of the lower end. That means we all need to know what the head’s are followed by the pistons and head gasket.


Bogie

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

What cam did you put in it?
What’s your initial timing?

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

What cam did you put in it?
What’s your initial timing?

Not sure on timing I hit it with light yesterday and its hitting at about-12

 

[RWENUTS]

Hard to read that but it would appear you have way more cam than compression.
That makes it a real dawg!
One cure is way more initial timing.
Was your 12 degrees checked with vac advance plugged off?

 

[lmsport]

226 on 106 is alot of overlap.
Needs a stall and gears and lots of initial timing.

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

Hard to read that but it would appear you have way more cam than compression.
That makes it a real dawg!
One cure is way more initial timing.
Was your 12 degrees checked with vac advance plugged

226 on 106 is alot of overlap.
Needs a stall and gears and lots of initial timing.

I have a 2400 to 2600 stall.

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

Hard to read that but it would appear you have way more cam than compression.
That makes it a real dawg!
One cure is way more initial timing.
Was your 12 degrees checked with vac advance plugged off?

Yeah it was plug

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

I have a 2400 to 2600 stall.

2200 -2600 I mean

 

[RWENUTS]

Who put the cam in?
What heads?

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

Who put the cam in?
What heads?

I put the cam in and not sure on heads got them off of a guy he rebuilt them cant remember what he said.

 

[RWENUTS]

Bump your initial timing up to 18.
Listen closely for pinging.

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

That is a race cam, looks like a lift and or duration limited class. The 106 LSA makes it unworkable off the track because it cranks the overlap way too high. This is good if you keep the revs in a range of 5000 to 6000 but is a dog under 5k. More stall will not help.

To make matters worse such a cam will need very good heads and a static compression ratio of 10 or 11 to 1 to make any decent bottom end.

I still wouldn’t eliminate the possibility it’s not timed up with the crank either. The easy start and poor everything after that is the hook I’m hanging my hat on about how it runs. A big cam would steadily get better once about 3000 rpm and would start to paste you in the seat by 4000. I will repeat that timing the ignition to the crank is NOT the same as timing the cam to the crank. The only place that happens is with the cam drive mechanism inside the timing case. Ignition timing to crank is completely independent of that, as far as the distributor is concerned the cam is just a jack shaft transferring rotary motion from some source, in this case the timing set, the distributor would be just as happy if the cam had no lobes on it as the activity of timing the ignition to the crank would be the same. All the designers are doing here is getting the cam to do two (2) separate jobs with one part.


Bogie

 

[lmsport]

What vehicle, weight and gearing?

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

Pull a valve cover off and get the casting number, assuming these are GM or if aftermarket a domestic. Imports usually have little to no i’d only the casting.

Assuming this was sold as a 383 but isn’t I expect you also got screwed on pistons and head’s. Sounds like the seller needs a mental alignment session from Guido.

Bogie

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

What vehicle, weight and gearing?

Biulting

That is a race cam, looks like a lift and or duration limited class. The 106 LSA makes it unworkable off the track because it cranks the overlap way too high. This is good if you keep the revs in a range of 5000 to 6000 but is a dog under 5k. More stall will not help.

To make matters worse such a cam will need very good heads and a static compression ratio of 10 or 11 to 1 to make any decent bottom end.

I still wouldn’t eliminate the possibility it’s not timed up with the crank either. The easy start and poor everything after that is the hook I’m hanging my hat on about how it runs. A big cam would steadily get better once about 3000 rpm and would start to paste you in the seat by 4000. I will repeat that timing the ignition to the crank is NOT the same as timing the cam to the crank. The only place that happens is with the cam drive mechanism inside the timing case. Ignition timing to crank is completely independent of that, as far as the distributor is concerned the cam is just a jack shaft transferring rotary motion from some source, in this case the timing set, the distributor would be just as happy if the cam had no lobes on it as the activity of timing the ignition to the crank would be the same. All the designers are doing here is getting the cam to do two (2) separate jobs with one part.


Bogie

Pull a valve cover off and get the casting number, assuming these are GM or if aftermarket a domestic. Imports usually have little to no i’d only the casting.

Assuming this was sold as a 383 but isn’t I expect you also got screwed on pistons and head’s. Sounds like the seller needs a mental alignment session from Guido.

Bogie

Didn't have heads when I got it pistons look good they have .30 stamp on them. Got heads off a guy said they would work for a 383 and the cam I put in put new valves and springs and pressure checked them. But I will get casting numbers off it

 

[Jeepbulit2021]

Biulting

Didn't have heads when I got it pistons look good they have .30 stamp on them. Got heads off a guy said they would work for a 383 and the cam I put in put new valves and springs and pressure checked them. But I will get casting numbers off it

That was before I found out it had a stock 350 crank in it