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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m going to build a 383 for my 69 Chevy c10.
I’m wanting 500 ft pounds of tourqe.
I have a th400 tranny with a 2000 stall. The stall can be changed if need be. 12 bolt posi 3.42 rear gear and 30” rear tire. That will not change. My truck weighs 3800 pounds.
This is a street divin truck that I drive around 10,000 miles a year. I want a very strong and dependable engine.
Im going to use a 880 roller block.
I’m thinking my cam needs to be in the .230 @ .05 duration range. But I need advise on my heads, I would like to stay with iron heads. No reason for that, that’s just what I’m used too. What size intake runners?? 185 cc? I know I need to keep air velocity up for the tourqe I’m wanting. I still have the vortec heads that came off that engine but I figured they would cost more then they are worth to go thru.
What is your options?
Also, dual plane performer or dual plane rpm Intake?
 

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A cam timing at 230 degrees at.050 lift is getting too big for a 2000 RPM stall converter.

One of the difficulties of adding displacement is cam can't be expanded in proportion without getting into the bad habits of long duration cams as this is a function of crank degrees and their effects through piston position of overlap and intake closing point. So to a large extent camshaft bad habits are independent of engine size.

Bogie
 

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Getting cast iron heads that are good are not as easy as options wise as getting aluminum heads. There are more options and more aluminum heads out there then anything else but I still like iron heads myself but also aluminum. I have pros and cons with what I like and don't like but that is just me. For such a big truck and wanting something to cruise with more so then racing with I would stay with a [email protected] duration wise cam so you get more torque and better midrange especially with that truck. I currently run a 268/272 220/[email protected] 510/510 lift hydraulic roller cam and even it for a daily driver with a 3000 stall and 3.42 rear gears in a chevy s10 still though mild compared to others on here is still pushing the edge of decent street manors for an everyday driver which for several reasons I am changing my engine out and selling it and getting something even lesser and better for my driving needs for something more reasonable since I do more town driving now vs highway driving when I worked at my old job and had another vehicle to drive. This is my only truck now and since I had to sell my other wilder one two years ago cause of health reasons and also needed money I am going with something milder so I can cruise and get a better efficient engine for town use while still making some decent power but nothing like I am now.

I am done wit the rump rump cam days. Really think about what your driving habits will be like and what would be the best all around cam to match with your heads to give you the best manors and power along with cruising and not going overboard and wishing you picked something different that was not to wild and be unhappy with it. Do your research on cams as I have been through so many cause of trial and error and also dumb decision making I have done a lot of mistakes on certain cam sizes for what I used my trucks for over the years. Don't get one for sound and stay away from thumpr cams.
 

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Getting cast iron heads that are good are not as easy as options wise as getting aluminum heads. There are more options and more aluminum heads out there then anything else but I still like iron heads myself but also aluminum. I have pros and cons with what I like and don't like but that is just me. For such a big truck and wanting something to cruise with more so then racing with I would stay with a [email protected] duration wise cam so you get more torque and better midrange especially with that truck. I currently run a 268/272 220/[email protected] 510/510 lift hydraulic roller cam and even it for a daily driver with a 3000 stall and 3.42 rear gears in a chevy s10 still though mild compared to others on here is still pushing the edge of decent street manors for an everyday driver which for several reasons I am changing my engine out and selling it and getting something even lesser and better for my driving needs for something more reasonable since I do more town driving now vs highway driving when I worked at my old job and had another vehicle to drive. This is my only truck now and since I had to sell my other wilder one two years ago cause of health reasons and also needed money I am going with something milder so I can cruise and get a better efficient engine for town use while still making some decent power but nothing like I am now.

I am done wit the rump rump cam days. Really think about what your driving habits will be like and what would be the best all around cam to match with your heads to give you the best manors and power along with cruising and not going overboard and wishing you picked something different that was not to wild and be unhappy with it. Do your research on cams as I have been through so many cause of trial and error and also dumb decision making I have done a lot of mistakes on certain cam sizes for what I used my trucks for over the years. Don't get one for sound and stay away from thumpr cams.


Your absolutely right. Almost 2 tons and a wide loose cam/tight converter are a combination to be a slug in everyday street driving.

Would be better off with a bone stock 396 or 427 big block.
 

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A Chevrolet RPO L-82 or LT-1 (350 CI / 350 HP) cam, GM 3896962, would be a good choice for your Chevrolet 383. It has 222 degrees duration on the intake and exhaust and .450” I / .460” E valve lift. No bone crushing, seat pounding, pushrod bending valve springs are needed. Valve springs with only 80 lb seat pressure and 280 lb open pressure is needed to follow the cam lobes to 5700 RPM. And best of all, no gas hog rear gear ratios necessary. It is a also good torque cam for a 383 with moderate duration and high valve lift which will make a good street performance 383 engine.
 

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I ran the Comp XFI280 (230-236 on 113) in my Camaro first time around with a L98 with ported 113 heads, and a mini-ram. I hated the sound of a HYD roller so much I put a solid roller in this new engine. lol
 

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what sound does a hydraulic roller make?
IMO depends on which. Had a few customers use Morels and they just click and talk to you. My engine I had OEM Delphis and they just made noise like they weren't pumped up, bet I had the covers off 20 times adjusting them from 1/2-1 1/2 turns. It's just hard to beat the sound of a crisp solid roller cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 350 I built last year has a hydraulic flat tapper can .221 @ .05 and .470 lift. It works great on that truck.
 

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There’s a little power there with iron
Iron is not the problem. It is actually a better material for heads than aluminum because of heat retention. The problem is that there are few iron heads that have runner size and shape that will compete with what is available in aftermarket aluminum. You fellows need to learn to seek out FLOW CHARTS on cylinder heads before laying out your hard-earned green.

And it's OK Sawlog, most of us know what a flat tapper cam is. Thanks for the correction though....:thumbup:
 

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Dart iron eagle platinum heads flow pretty good for an iron head from the flow charts I have seen and do good with some port work but with anyone wanting to make 500 plus horsepower and torque your going to need high compression and as much flow as you can get and the aftermarket is like about 75 percent aluminum vs iron and that right there will answer many reasons as to why more use aluminum vs iron. Almost 99 percent of all automobiles use aluminum heads nowadays anyways for various reasons.

I would never try to build a high 450 plus horse power and 500 ftlbs of torque engine with iron heads on pump gas. I would never use iron heads above 9.5 to 1 and with limited timing cause todays fuels pretty much is junk with carburetors at least in my area regardless what station I go to. All of them have only E10 and some work better then others. I still like iron heads on slightly lesser compression builds that I am not wanting to make big power on but enough for cruising which I am in the process of doing now.

I went with a set of dart iron eagle platinum heads which are not to bad on flow but it takes more then that as well. If your wanting the most of every bit of power and over 10 to 1 CR then aluminum you need to go unless you want racing fuel to be used. The dart iron eagle platinum heads are about the only ones that is good enough for making some really good power comparable to some aluminum heads but with higher compression and todays junk fuel for fuel injection engines its going to take race fuel for that.

At least from what I know but I am not a general on here like Mr techinspector who is a five star general to me as he knows his stuff like no other I have ever came across on here and much respect to him for he has taught me a lot.He is a cool guy :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My current engine has 9.89:1 compression with iron heads and runs on 89 octane. I have zero deck with .039 compressed head gasket. My cam has a 108 lsa ,that might be why in getting away with that.
 

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A tight quench does help a lot.9.5 is just a safety margin from what a lot of folks go by but I would not push it beyond 10.1 but that is me. Cam size and cooling system and other factors can play a big deal as well on iron heads and higher compression.
 

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Your engine

Eric,
at the end of the day, it's YOUR engine. You want iron heads, you USE iron heads. If you read David Vizard's book, that's ALL he uses in his builds. The double humps are fine heads (don't listen to the nay-sayers). Yes, aluminum aftermarket are superior. But, they are only superior because of their SHAPE, not material. One more thing, learning to port a set of old, cast iron heads is not a skill you'll soon forget. In summary, and to repeat, if you want IRON heads, USE iron heads; it's YOUR engine.
 
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