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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been have a hell of a time getting a alternator bracket that fits my engine correctly. It’s a SBC with vortec heads, small water pump, and I’m using a gm style 12si alternator.
It originally came with side pipes and a outboard bracket which was fine. Since I put zoomies on it doesn’t fit and touches the pipes. I just tried a low drivers side mount but the steering components are in the way. I “may” be able to use an Alan Grove mount that’s practically vertical and bolts to the head but it looks like the radiator support rail might be in the way. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Unfortunately I think that’ll run into the supercharger. I am thinking of this one.


Update: unfortunately I can’t use that one either since the belt will run into the snout bracket. 😩
 

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Make your own. Half these kits dont work.

Your own bracket will work.

I would mount it over the head near the supercharger neck.
I would pull the front 2 intake bolts and replace them with studs.
Then make a hard mount that uses the 2 intake studs and one head bolt near the intake.
This hard mount will use the long bolt having a hole on the front of the alternatior and a bolt welded to the back.

Then make a U shaped ( or use a clevis) piece for the other side of the alternatiors short bolt that would have a turnbuckle that ran to the far upper head bolt near the exhaust.

I would tap the holes and use M10x1.5 bolts and 1/8" steel material. Fine threads on the turnbuckle recommend with double nuts and a bit of welding wire tied to the bracket ran a few times after that last thread then ran back to the bracket. No chance of it ever backing out despite the engine vibration.

By using a clevis or a U shaped thing you lessen the chance of that tension hole oblonging. If it does then this is a piece that is threaded into and can be replaced. Just order a extra piece and save a text folder with the part number (and others) on a computer when you loose that extra part in 5 years.

This setup makes it very easy to adjust the tension or remove the alternatior with just 3 bolts.

The alternatio battery bolt.
The turnbuckle bolt on the head.
Then the long alternatior bolt.
When you want to put it back on you could just reverse the order and you would have little to no adjustment needed to have proper belt tension.

Once everything is tacked up with a few gussets you can test it to make sure nothing is going to flex then finish weld and paint it. Or if you want it pretty you can use the steel thing as a base to hand off to someone with a cutting table and tig welder to make it out of something like aliminum or stainless. Just make sure the thickness is the same or accounted for so you are not planing or adding washers to the thing.
 

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i was looking into that. Do I need a different water pump pulley?
You wouldn't have to as long as the smaller alternator fit the location and clear everything while still lining up with the current pulley groove, but I'm glad you brought it up because it opens up a further option...

With the short water pump, any addition grooves needed are added forward of the original groove, so you could switch the waterpump and crank V-belt pulley's to two groove versions and move your belt to the outer groove....it would gain you an addition 5/8" or so room to move the single groove alternator forward.
Optional belt routing with two groove would be rear groove around crank and waterpump only, and front groove around crank and alternator only, two seperate belts.....this is race type routing, reason for it is that it is almost impossible to throw a belt because of high rpm when run only around 2 pulleys.
 

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Just thought of this,
You may be able to do the 2 groove pulleys and just move your current alternator forward that 5/8" and be just fine.

If those are ceramic coated headers it shold be enough space.

If it worried you too much, you could fab up a small aluminum thin sheet heat sheild that fastens to the large unused bracket lug on the back of the alternator case and partially shields the back of the alternator in the vicinity of the pipe. I've done that trick before, and it works well.
 

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First post says driver side low mount it won't clear the steering.

There is an 8 rib serpentine belt and blower drive for an underhood Eaton style supercharger in the mix too, preventing some fits.

I wonder about a passenger side mid mount too, like the first pic Johnsongrass1
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’m thinking a mini race alternator mounted low on the driver side would work. Trying to research a decent one, it seems like there are super mini models and ultra mini models? Slightly confusing
 

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Make your own. Half these kits dont work.

Your own bracket will work.
my thoughts exactly.
you can mount it anywhere, over the supercharger if you wanted to
after pricing those fancy brackets i made all of the brackets for 58truk.
compressor bracket looks a little industrial punkish
easy peasy

Motor vehicle Yellow Automotive exterior Electrical wiring Auto part


Motor vehicle Hood Car Vehicle Yellow
 

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I’ve been have a hell of a time getting a alternator bracket that fits my engine correctly. It’s a SBC with vortec heads, small water pump, and I’m using a gm style 12si alternator.
It originally came with side pipes and a outboard bracket which was fine. Since I put zoomies on it doesn’t fit and touches the pipes. I just tried a low drivers side mount but the steering components are in the way. I “may” be able to use an Alan Grove mount that’s practically vertical and bolts to the head but it looks like the radiator support rail might be in the way. Does anyone have any ideas? View attachment 618736 View attachment 618737 View attachment 618738
 
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