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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I need a little help ordering new bearings for my sbc engine. I have not decided what brand exactly. I want something economical yet reliable. I have been looking at Federal Mogul or Clevite. This is my first sbc build.
I have a '78 Chevy 305 2bbl from a '78 Malibu. I just had the crank polished and block sonic tested and had the old cam bearings removed.
I was looking at Clevite cam bearings they have 2 different part numbers (Al-3) aluminum pt# sh13495 and babbit (b-1) pt# sh290s19, does a anyone know the deifference?
I could also use some suggestions on rod/main bearings and piston rings. the crank has been polished and is standard, rods are all stock, and stock bore pistons. The motor is all stock with the exception of a mild cam, intake/carb.
I will probably order from summit or the local kragen/checker. thank you in advance.
 

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Clevite 77 is probably the most popular bearings out there. They are priced very reasonable. One thing you will need to know is if your crank needs an H or P series bearing. If is has a chamfer on the journals you will want the H series if it has no chamfer then the P series is what you will want. Federal Mogul makes nice bearings as well.
 

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S10_V8 said:
Hi. I need a little help ordering new bearings for my sbc engine. I have not decided what brand exactly. I want something economical yet reliable. I have been looking at Federal Mogul or Clevite. This is my first sbc build.
I have a '78 Chevy 305 2bbl from a '78 Malibu. I just had the crank polished and block sonic tested and had the old cam bearings removed.
I was looking at Clevite cam bearings they have 2 different part numbers (Al-3) aluminum pt# sh13495 and babbit (b-1) pt# sh290s19, does a anyone know the deifference?
I could also use some suggestions on rod/main bearings and piston rings. the crank has been polished and is standard, rods are all stock, and stock bore pistons. The motor is all stock with the exception of a mild cam, intake/carb.
I will probably order from summit or the local kragen/checker. thank you in advance.
The 1349 cam bearings are the performance set and the 290's are the stock repalacement set.

I would stay away form the 1349's as we work with alot of other performance shops and there have been some issues on spinning cam bearings on start up at our shop we use the ACL cam bearings 3349 in evrything as they are a aluminum cam bearing and are much stronger then the babbit bearings like the Durabond CHP-8 as we have seen the differance after a season of running.

If your using stock springs on the heads go with the CH-8 Durabond we don't do many stock engines at our shop but a good rod and main set would be the F/M A-series berings and if your using a cast shaft it's not recomended to use Clevite H-series bearings.

Hope this info helps
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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The stock replacment bearing will be comform to dirt and misaligment a lot easier than the aluminum ones. For you power level and street use. I would use the 290.
 

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johnsongrass1 said:
The stock replacment bearing will be comform to dirt and misaligment a lot easier than the aluminum ones. For you power level and street use. I would use the 290.
Why would you build an engine with dirt or misaligned parts if he is using a stock cam and stock valve springs the 290's are fine anything any more then that he had bettr step up to a performance cam bearings. At our shop we use the best cam bearings going and never had any problems so far but we don't assemble with dirt or misaligned parts LOL.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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I don't either, but a lot of people do.

How many engines are put together in dirty garages, with dirty rags, fans blowing dust around, cheap oil filters, honing dust, cheap air filters, ect...

I once built a engine in a lean to in the middle of a field. Took me a winter.
 

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On a stock engine, I wouldn't sweat what type of cam bearings I use. I've always used durabond bearings for street beaters and they work well.

I've had plenty of small block Chevys that had misalignment or cam bores that weren't right on the money concerning size. This makes the cam a little sticky.

We know the right thing to do is to get another block or bore the cam tunnel and use the next size cam bearing.

However, the average guy putting it together in his garage might let it slide. If you do, you would definitely want a set of bearings with some babbit on them. They are more forgiving if things are not just right. Cam bearing failures are pretty rare in most flat tappet applications.

For a street engine, I would suggest the "P" series Clevite bearings. Crankshafts actually flex, and all kinds of things go on inside an engine that you wouldn't think would take place. Not every home builder has access to specialty measuring equipment, and well, that's just the way things are done in garage-land. So, use the babbit bearings and leave the aluminum stuff to the big boys.


Nairb
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, thanks for all the suggestions guys. I went to the machine shop this morning and had him install the cam bearings and is checking the rods/main bearings for me. I also had him order the bearings, they are Clevite 77 and the cam bearings are Durabond. I didn't get specific info. I did get to read this post before I went in, I went on the machinists recommendations (which sounds alot like what you guys mentioned) I told him to go ahead and order it. sonic test/vat the block $40, polish the crank $22.50 , R&R cam bearings $20, check rods/mains $25, bearings $60. He hot tanked and did some drilling and tapping included in the prices. motor should be ready to assemble by Friday. It's my first attempt at assembling a entire motor.
Hopefully this S-10 will be up and going soon.
 

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355 engine build

CNC BLOCKS N/E said:
Why would you build an engine with dirt or misaligned parts if he is using a stock cam and stock valve springs the 290's are fine anything any more then that he had bettr step up to a performance cam bearings. At our shop we use the best cam bearings going and never had any problems so far but we don't assemble with dirt or misaligned parts LOL.
The bearing they sent me are sealed power 1235M are these bearing good enough . When I bought the block it came with bearing already in .I'm kind of skeptical about these bearing,because I do not know what kind they are , probably cheap because the freeze plugs are those galvenize color plugs ,which I will change when I put this thing together.BLUE82
 

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BLUE82 said:
The bearing they sent me are sealed power 1235M are these bearing good enough . When I bought the block it came with bearing already in .I'm kind of skeptical about these bearing,because I do not know what kind they are , probably cheap because the freeze plugs are those galvenize color plugs ,which I will change when I put this thing together.BLUE82
Not sure who supplies Sealed Power with ther cam bearings are there any markings on them??
 

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BLUE82 said:
The box has 1235M CH-8 written on it . The bearing that's in the block already is at 2'o clock and 6'o clock and they also have larger holes in them.
Its a Durabond stock replacement cam bearing if your using stock springs and stock cam lift those ore fine if your using a performance cam and springs you may won't step up to the better cam bearings.

We use the pefromance cam bearings in all the blocks we sell and the engines we build.
 

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cam bearing

The bearing I have in the block right now I think are high performance , because all the holes on the bearing are twice as large and they are lined up with all the oil holes in the block.
 

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BLUE82 said:
What is the part# for the performance cam bearing.
The CHP-8 is the performace BABBIT bearing and if you want a better one then that go with the ACL3349 which is an aluminum bearing and it a much stronger bearing, And there is only one way to put them in and the oil hole will end up at 4 0'clock which is the perfered location for the oil holes.
 

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BLUE82 said:
will I have to take the bearings I have in the block out and replace with the ch-8 and install where they are at 4o'clock.
The CH-8 is a stock replacement beariing and is the same thing you have now I believe and if your using stock springs and cam the oil hole plaement is fine as its been done that way for years,
 
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