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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a way to design and build a blower motor for longevity? I'm toying with the idea of this but dont know much about it. I do understand forged crank and pistons are recommended and a compression around 9.0 . My goals of the idea is for it to be reliable this will not be raced on the track. It's more for eye appeal but I do want the added hp and torque. My goal is more for the low rpm torque for crusing and open rd driving and just simply fun. Would love to see 500+ ftlbs of torque and around the same hp. If I can make more with sacrificing the life of the engine that's a plus. I have a vortec roller block that I can build. Can either do 355 or 383. What heads would you guys recommend? I have a set of vortec heads that I can use but dont think they would be my best choice. This is for a 66c10 that's being restored. I have also thought about a 427sbc short block from shafiroff engines and going with a NA engine. What's some thoughts and ideas with this? Thanks
 

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I presume your talking a Gen I engine.

The short answer is the beefiest block you can afford, forged internals, aftermarket steel main caps, aluminum head’s with 200 to 220 cc intake ports. Block will need to be zero decked or the pistons need to be the raised compression height version and run with a good composite gasket with a aluminum head. Aluminum buys a lot of detonation resistance. The L31 Vortec head is structurally weak to where the added heat and pressure usually cracks them. You need to run the best exhaust valve you can afford short of titanium. Not that I’m opposed to titanium but these require a different seat insert and guide alloy, plus a unique retainer, locks and possibly lash caps if the selected valve doesn’t have a hardened steel stem tip. also these are things thst run the cost up.

Cam needs more exhaust duration and lift so something like a blower, turbo, nitrous cam is needed. The exhaust valve opens against considerable cylinder pressure that alone recommends a roller cam to get past flat tappet lobe and lifter wear issues.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I presume your talking a Gen I engine.

The short answer is the beefiest block you can afford, forged internals, aftermarket steel main caps, aluminum head’s with 200 to 220 cc intake ports. Block will need to be zero decked or the pistons need to be the raised compression height version and run with a good composite gasket with a aluminum head. Aluminum buys a lot of detonation resistance. The L31 Vortec head is structurally weak to where the added heat and pressure usually cracks them. You need to run the best exhaust valve you can afford short of titanium. Not that I’m opposed to titanium but these require a different seat insert and guide alloy, plus a unique retainer, locks and possibly lash caps if the selected valve doesn’t have a hardened steel stem tip. also these are things thst run the cost up.

Cam needs more exhaust duration and lift so something like a blower, turbo, nitrous cam is needed. The exhaust valve opens against considerable cylinder pressure that alone recommends a roller cam to get past flat tappet lobe and lifter wear issues.

Bogie
The engine is a 2000 5.7 vortec block, I know the ls based engines are good but I wanted to keep it away from another ls swap. Kinda keeping my options open. Not entirely set against a ls but would prefer a older style engine.
 

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Ok here is the thing about going distributor less with a LS.
You end up with a greater availability of timing adjustments and fuel trims.

With a carburatior your fuel trim is fixed. You can add a boost refrence but that is just adding more fuel. Your jets are still fixed. This means that to be "safe" your running rich or your tearing the thing down from afternoon to night and of course at diffrent elevations.

It is just alot easier to make more "safe" horsepower with a LS as it can adjust for those changes.

You can take a old engine and add controlers, boxes, and such or you can start with a newer engine that has all that in place. With a bit of tuning you can take that factory or near factory setup and make it outperform all those controllers or boxes you used on that old engine. The thing is that those controller boxes are also quite expensive or the company may disappear in 5 years.
 

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We need to know what style of blower you want to use?
Old fashioned Roots/GMC style and duak 4 barrels(or injection)? 4-71, 6-71 or 8-71 size

Underhood single carb style? 142/144 or 174/177

Latest modern higher efficiency screw compressor style underhood like Eaton/Magnusen?

Factory 4-bolt block, or a 2-bolt block converted to steel splayed main caps will hold your 500 hp goal. Block should be sonic checked for any bad core shift in the casting thickness before any work is done.

Being vortec block, it's already set up for hydraulic roller cam so stick with that and just get a performance cam swap to match up with the blower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We need to know what style of blower you want to use?
Old fashioned Roots/GMC style and duak 4 barrels(or injection)? 4-71, 6-71 or 8-71 size

Underhood single carb style? 142/144 or 174/177

Latest modern higher efficiency screw compressor style underhood like Eaton/Magnusen?

Factory 4-bolt block, or a 2-bolt block converted to steel splayed main caps will hold your 500 hp goal. Block should be sonic checked for any bad core shift in the casting thickness before any work is done.

Being vortec block, it's already set up for hydraulic roller cam so stick with that and just get a performance cam swap to match up with the blower.
I'm not really sure which type or one I would go with. I have looked at edelbrock, the blower shop and the weiand blowers. If I'm able to pull this off I will go with Holley sniper efi system or something similar. Would prefer to keep a single efi over dual. If there are better options for blowers I'm open to options
Thanks
 

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Cheaper, easier, more efficient, lighter and increased longevity going with a turbo setup. You can still use a Sniper, even though I wouldn't.

You haven't really mentioned a power goal, unless I missed it, and you want a daily driver. For a turbo there will be no special cams needed - any old stock cam for a daily driver will do. Your Vortec long block with a roller cam will be just fine. Better than a Sniper would be a Term X that can handle a knock sensor input and a meth injection output for those times that you really lay into it hoping that your turbo is bigger than it is.

You can have every piece of the turbo bought and paid for the price of a blower by itself except the blower build requires a stout short block that will be the price of the blower again or more.

My two cents on that.
 

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I have a stroker with a B&M 144. Have over 220,000 miles on the blower. Bought it used and ran it for a few years. Put seals and bearings in it once a long time ago. Had it on my motor home for 13 years. Ran really good!

11 years and 110,000 miles on a 383, 10:1 CR 250-260 XE Comp flat tappet, iron heads.

2 years on a bone STOCK 350 in the motor home. Broke the snout off 2 forged cranks. Put a 427 in the bus. The bus weighs 22,000 lbs.

Built a 385 and put it in my street rod for about 12 years and 70,000 miles. 750 Edelbrock, 260-270 XE, 1.6 rockers. Pro-Comp rods, 9:1 CR. Brodix 180 heads. The 385 dynoed 460 HP and 590 TQ. with Brodix heads. Makes about 4-5 lbs boost.

Built a 389" stroker and have it in the street rod now. Same set-up, but 264-270 XE roller. About 40,000 miles on it. HP/TQ ??? Gets 19-20 mpg... Love it!
 
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