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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got set ebay sbc aluminum heads remove from my 383 because it got valve leak .my question is i bring cylinder heads to machine shop for they do valve job or i move on new set cylinder head ,i would stay on 64cc champers 200 cc intake runner max and what brand could i buy for 1000$
 

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A good valve job would be the least expensive way to fix it, if it doesn't need other things like new valves or new springs, or new valve guides.....hard to say without knowing the brand how good of quality they are..

Is there a row of pinstamped numbers just below the valvecover mounting surface, on the outside of the head, above the exhaust ports??

Pictures of the heads from all sides can help too, some guys here know how to recognize several of the un-named budget cylinder heads just by various casting features.

For a new set to fit your budget, I would look at ProMaxx 200cc Maxx series.
 

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Depends on what you mean be a valve leak?

Burnt valve or seat?

Worn guide not landing the valve concentrically on the seat?

Spriings not strong enough to keep the valve tight on the seat?

Constant overrevving to where the springs or guides become damaged?

A common thread with low end import heads is guide wear and inadequate springs. To a big extent guide wear is insufficient cleaning prior to assembly and a lack of stem lubrication. Assembled head’s tend to use springs inadequate to the loads put on them.

Basically you need a competent shop to tear them down and inspect for root cause issues.

Anymore a 1000 bucks doesn’t buy much, the imports have become pretty expensive thanks to high tariffs the previous president had levied and the current one hasn’t reduced. Probably the best bang for your buck on import head’s is the FloTec, these are essentially an aluminum copy of the L31 Vortec. For domestics Edelbrock and Patriot have some in your cost category. I think the Patriot has a better combustion chamber. The Edelbrock chambers are simpler and tend to be bigger so you have to watch where your compression is going.

For assembled head’s no matter who’s, I disassemble them and clean them really well especially in the guides, then plug the guides and fill them with oil to set for a few days before draining them then apply assembly lube with a brush in the guide and to the stem to insure the guide is lubed end to end as with modern tight stem seals the guides get damn little oil especially the exhaust side that sees pressure that tends to blow the lube back up the stem, not to mention temperatures that burn off the oil. High lift cams are a big contributor as more of the stem is exposed to the high heat. In many respects using an umbrella rather than a positive seal on the exhaust side works better as they allow more oil splash to get to the valve stem, talking exhaust side. The intake valve runs a lot cooler and sees vacuum which induces some oil to enter into the guide past the seal so these generally have less problems than the exhaust side.

You want to be sure the valves you use have hard or industrial chromed stems as this wears well with minimal lubrication. Most valve do have this, but be sure yours do.

Bogie
 

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You could go the skip white.nkb head route probably the same castings as the promax or assault heads
The Skip White NKB head is the same as the Assault Racing head from KMJ Performance(and the same as AFR's new as-cast Enforcer head).....but it is not the same head casting ProMaxx uses.

ProMaxx is/was Patriot, they restructured the company and the name changed 3-4 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
A good valve job would be the least expensive way to fix it, if it doesn't need other things like new valves or new springs, or new valve guides.....hard to say without knowing the brand how good of quality they are..

Is there a row of pinstamped numbers just below the valvecover mounting surface, on the outside of the head, above the exhaust ports??

Pictures of the heads from all sides can help too, some guys here know how to recognize several of the un-named budget cylinder heads just by various casting features.

For a new set to fit your budget, I would look at ProMaxx 200cc Maxx series.
i forgot took pictures at chamber . they say 64cc 2.02 intake valve 1.60 exhaust valve .exhaust valve 53-1001601 intake 53-1002021
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Depends on what you mean be a valve leak?

Burnt valve or seat?

Worn guide not landing the valve concentrically on the seat?

Spriings not strong enough to keep the valve tight on the seat?

Constant overrevving to where the springs or guides become damaged?

A common thread with low end import heads is guide wear and inadequate springs. To a big extent guide wear is insufficient cleaning prior to assembly and a lack of stem lubrication. Assembled head’s tend to use springs inadequate to the loads put on them.

Basically you need a competent shop to tear them down and inspect for root cause issues.

Anymore a 1000 bucks doesn’t buy much, the imports have become pretty expensive thanks to high tariffs the previous president had levied and the current one hasn’t reduced. Probably the best bang for your buck on import head’s is the FloTec, these are essentially an aluminum copy of the L31 Vortec. For domestics Edelbrock and Patriot have some in your cost category. I think the Patriot has a better combustion chamber. The Edelbrock chambers are simpler and tend to be bigger so you have to watch where your compression is going.

For assembled head’s no matter who’s, I disassemble them and clean them really well especially in the guides, then plug the guides and fill them with oil to set for a few days before draining them then apply assembly lube with a brush in the guide and to the stem to insure the guide is lubed end to end as with modern tight stem seals the guides get damn little oil especially the exhaust side that sees pressure that tends to blow the lube back up the stem, not to mention temperatures that burn off the oil. High lift cams are a big contributor as more of the stem is exposed to the high heat. In many respects using an umbrella rather than a positive seal on the exhaust side works better as they allow more oil splash to get to the valve stem, talking exhaust side. The intake valve runs a lot cooler and sees vacuum which induces some oil to enter into the guide past the seal so these generally have less problems than the exhaust side.

You want to be sure the valves you use have hard or industrial chromed stems as this wears well with minimal lubrication. Most valve do have this, but be sure yours do.

Bogie
[/QUOTE
Good information thanks. I may remove it again and take it to machine shop
 
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