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Delta Alpha Tango Juliet
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

Long story short, this is hopefully the last flat tappet cam I will ever have to break-in, as I'm going roller from here on out. The last flat tappet cam i've ever had to break in, was about 6 or 7 years ago, and my dad guided me through it all. Anyway, I'll be doing this all on my own, and I have a few questions that aren't exactly answered in other forum posts. Camshaft is a Lunati Barebones flat tappet camshaft. Engine is a SBC 355

1. Is it possible to add TOO MUCH of the ZDDP oil additive to the break in oil? Say 3 quarts of Castrol GTX, and 2 quarts of ZDDP additive. I'd rather have too much than not enough.

2. Would adding a rare earth magnet to the oil filter and near the drain plug help keep down the amount of cycled contaminates? Then remove magnets and drain break in oil. Sounds good in theory, but is it a good idea?

3. In addition to soaking them in engine oil, should i also cover the camshaft lifters in assembly lube as well? I tried my best to cover the camshaft in a thick coat of the lube Lunati provided.
 

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Your oil situation sounds good, I've broken in cams with nothing but ZDDP break in oil so you should be fine.

Magnets couldn't hurt as far as I know

Assembly line goes on EVERYTHING. Both sides of the lifters, both sides of the pushrods, all over the cam, and I even put a dab on the valve stem tip.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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1. Is it possible to add TOO MUCH of the ZDDP oil additive to the break in oil? Say 3 quarts of Castrol GTX, and 2 quarts of ZDDP additive. I'd rather have too much than not enough.
Too much is as bad as too little. 4 ounces to 5 quarts of oil is plenty.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-zddp

2. Would adding a rare earth magnet to the oil filter and near the drain plug help keep down the amount of cycled contaminates? Then remove magnets and drain break in oil. Sounds good in theory, but is it a good idea?
Yes, anytime you can trap and remove microscopic pieces of ferrous metal from the motor, it's a good idea. They make oil pan drain plugs with a magnet attached to the end of it, so that when you remove it to drain the oil, you just clean off the magnet and screw the drain plug back into the pan. I have also seen magnets that attach to the oil filter. In my opinion, that is also a good idea.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-17000
https://www.summitracing.com/search...Order=Ascending&keyword=magnet for oil filter

3. In addition to soaking them in engine oil, should i also cover the camshaft lifters in assembly lube as well? I tried my best to cover the camshaft in a thick coat of the lube Lunati provided.
I think soaking lifters is silly. Right before you fire the motor off to break in the cam, use a tool like this to prime the motor. Have one of your buddies to turn the crankshaft while you are priming the motor, so that you get oil to all parts of the motor and this operation will fill the lifters with oil before you fire the motor off. While you're operating the drill motor to prime the motor, have your buddy to make at least two complete crankshaft revolutions. You don't have to go at this like killing snakes, just go slow and steady.
The machined aluminum boss that's built into the bottom of the primer tool will seal off and complete the passenger side oil galley so that you get oil pressure to both sides of the motor. With a straight stick, less the boss, you don't complete the oil galley and will not get oil to the passenger side.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66896

The skirts of the lifters get engine oil only. The crowns of the lifter get Extreme Pressure grease like you use on the cam lobes, Molybdenum Disulfide.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-rl-1

Read this tutorial that I linked for you. It will answer the rest of your questions.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks

.
 

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camarodriver67
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Put your mind at ease just use something like Comp Cams breakin oil, Royal Purple breakin oil, or Lucas High ZDDP breakin oil. Then after you finish the 20 minute breakin drain and change to Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in 10W30 or 20W50. You don't have add or mix anything. You can get a magnetic drain plug. Soaking hydraulic lifters in oil is a mistake. Read what Crane cams says about hydraulic lifters being soaked the night before. Crane Cams |
 

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Actually the soaking is OK, but it's not needed. It's Pre Pumping that's verboten. Don't pump up the lifters ahead of time because it can affect the preload height and cause poor valve sealing due to too much lift.

Comp cams advises/allows that you give the lifters a rinse with mineral spirits or another solvent just in case any junk is in there that could cause issues.

When you prime the engine oil system before first start it fills the lifters, that's why the soak isn't needed.

Do all that stuff, get the ignition set right, light it off and go directly to 2000 rpm plus or minus a few hundred for 20 - 25 minutes. Vary your engine speeds that much. No warm up idle, straight to 2000 and you'll have enough oil on the cam to break it in.

I used that Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil; works right and has the optimal amount of zddp as it comes out of the bottle.
 

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Delta Alpha Tango Juliet
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone for your responses! That eases my mind a lot. I guess i'm on the right track. My main thing was doing everything possible to refrain from destroying this camshaft. I've now ordered more lube and two 4oz bottles of additive. I will update!
 

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Thanks everyone for your responses! That eases my mind a lot. I guess i'm on the right track. My main thing was doing everything possible to refrain from destroying this camshaft. I've now ordered more lube and two 4oz bottles of additive. I will update!
Keep the valve spring pressure less than 115 lb seat / 325 lb open pressure, use Crane moly cam lube, use Valvoline VR1 break in oil. Follow the correct break in procedures. Your camshaft will survive a 20 minute break in period.

Solid flat tappet cams are more difficult to break in because they usually require higher spring pressure. That requires a valve spring change after break in.
 

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Delta Alpha Tango Juliet
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
See, I've never understood that. When you say valve spring pressure, what are you referring to? I have 062 vortec heads with a lift capability of .550". I don't understand seat and open pressure. Could someone please explain? Thanks again.
 

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Spring pressure, 115 seat is 115 lbs. of spring pressure when the valve is closed or resting on the valve seat. 325 lbs. is when the spring & valve is fully compressed, fully open by the rocker arm. If your using the spring that came with the 062 head your OK. You don't want to use really stiff springs with a lot of open spring pressure for break in. Also put a hard blowing fan in front of the radiator, keeps the engine from overheating. I'd also returd the timing once you get it running, just a little bit. Once you get the rpms up to 2000 turn the distributor until you hear the rpms drop slightly, tighten the dist. bolt an bump the rpms back up to 2000.
Another good thing to do is to over fill the oil pan by 1 qt. Gives a little more oil splash onto the cam.
And the last thing to know is that from now on your going to have to use a high zinc oil every time you do a oil change, like Valvoline VR-1 10/30. You won't be able to use any oil that Wal-Mart sells. Auto parts stores don't put 10/30 VR-1 out on the shelf only 20/50 & 50 wt. Why I don't know!! I would go ask if they had any in the back, if they don't have any then ask them to order you 2 or 3 cases, 6 qts. in a case. That's what I was doing.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Seat pressure in the pressure the spring puts on the valve when it's closed and open pressure is the pressure the spring puts on the valve when the cam has it fully opened.
these are tailored to the application to ensure the lifter is following the lobes on the cam. Too much or to little does damage.

Typical hypo street hyd grinds are in the 120seat to 300open.
A solid roller in a race application could in the 400closed and 1000open.
 

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Delta Alpha Tango Juliet
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With that said, what if the entire valve train in the cylinder heads are new and never been run? Would that pose a problem? I am now officially worried again lol
 

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With that said, what if the entire valve train in the cylinder heads are new and never been run? Would that pose a problem? I am now officially worried again lol
Do you know the part number for the valve springs you are going to use?

If you have the part number, you can get the seat and open pressures from the manufacturer. They should always be checked and verified when they are installed.
 

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Are the 062 heads new, never been run before? Or are they rebuilds from from local shop? I just reread your last post, you said brand new, your good to go then.
 

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Delta Alpha Tango Juliet
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No sir, the heads are rebuilt. I've done some digging and found the spring specifications. They are as follows.

Specifications:

Outside Diameter- 1.270"
Inside Diameter- .880"
110 Lbs @ 1.785" (See *Note at bottom of page)
310 Lbs @ .550" lift
Coil Bind 1.145"
Beehive Spring? - No
High Performance Replacement Spring? -Yes
Part # Vsk4h50 for engines w/ vortec heads and flat tappet cams
or mild hyd roller cams.

So, Seat Pressure of 110lbs and Open Pressure of 310lbs. Does this sound like my camshaft will survive?
 
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