Loosen the rocker till it clicks and then tighten it till it just stops clicking then go I turn tighter. Get you a set of oil deflectors at the parts house and you won't have hot oil all over you. You want the lifters to be adjusted to the middle of their range and this method gets you about right on. Get the motor warmed up before you start.
You can adjust it while running but there's a easy way to get it right with out causing oil fires and burnt hands. :nono:
Do this one cyl. at a time.
To adjust the intake valve:
(Turn the engine clockwise till the exhaust valve just starts to open.)
Turn the 5/8 nut down till there is no play between the back of the rocker and the push rod then go 1/2 turn past.
To adjust the exhaust valve:
(Turn engine clockwise till the Intake valve go's down and back up 3/4 of the way)
Turn the 5/8 Nut down till there is no play between the back of the rocker and the pushrod . then go 1/2 turn past.
Going 1/2 turn past pre-loads the lifter.
I've used this method for years for Hyd. cams.. roller or flat tappet.
If you've got a solid lifter/roller cam you can use the same method but instead of going 1/2 turn.. you'd follow your cam card spec's for roller tip to valve stem lash.
The problem I have with static adjustment is you can't take lifter rates into account. I adjusted mine four times not running and I still had a tick because of a few lifters that bled down a little faster. Adjusting them while running is a good way to avoid that.
Let's face it; lifters and the oil we give them aint what they used to be.
I'll have to agree with the static method as well.
I did have a bit of a tick on a couple troubled lifters (don't ask) and after I fired it up for a while, I had to go back and redo those couple that were ticking - found that they somehow did not have the 1/2 to 3/4 turn preload on them. Readjusted just those in question and I was set to go.
BTW, if you really like adjust them with it running (which IMO takes a really keen ear or a stethoscope), you can take an old steel valve cover, and cut it, bend it, to fashion a sort of shield out of it. The part you folded out is now the window to the valve train. Simple and effective - CHEAP. thats what i like. . .
If you tighten them all down until they stop ticking, then turn off the motor, and THEN do the preload adjustment (1/4 turn, a full turn, whatever), you'll be less frustrated and there'll be less oil to clean up.
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