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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everybody I want to know If I Can run a simple plate system to my current setup?? I WANT to spray 150-200 shot

I have a 350 1 piece 87 2 bolt block std deck height 5.7 rods 20over stock crank 20over.. trw .100 dome piston .30 over..
comp cam flat tappet
252 260 @0.50
10:6 comp
Brodix ik200 heads
victor jr intake
JEGS electric fuel pump
fuel cell
750 holley hp jetted 71,80
dynatech headers
msd distributor, 6al, blaster
TH400 BUILT manual valve body
4500 stall
430 gear
28 tire
I know My fuel pump needs to go but what kind??
the rods i have coming eagle i beam forged 5.7
crank is cast will this be okay for one season?
should i sply the block? is it worth the machine work? I want it to be street friendly but can be able to handle the hit
My concerns are the block I have...will it be ok for what im looking to do?
Im yanking the motor soon to change bearings from a wiped cam earlier in the season should i degree my cam? right now its at 0 positon key...Cam card suggest to advance it to 4 degree key..should i do it for nitrous?
Ijust want a good nitrous motor to bring me into the high 9s im :)
thanks
 

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cjay,how long does it take you to assemble the engine? do you record all clearances?do you custom fit all the parts,ie: file the ring gap? do you measure all the side gaps in the rods,do you fit each piston as exact as possible?
When you take the engine apart,do you compare the wear from the original build specs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cjay,how long does it take you to assemble the engine? do you record all clearances?do you custom fit all the parts,ie: file the ring gap? do you measure all the side gaps in the rods,do you fit each piston as exact as possible?
When you take the engine apart,do you compare the wear from the original build specs?
No i didn't get exact with the measurements..it was my first Re-build of a motor...but i remember the ring gap in the cylinder wall was 18 on the feeler gauge but i didn't check each piston to each cylinder I WANT do ALL for next season..
 

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build it a couple more times before you add 200 NO2.You are well on your way to building good engines,just get a little more experience.Until you take apart an engine thats hurt you have not yet really learned corrective measures.After that,move your power up and your experience will make that engine last longer
 

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The ring gap on nitrous is different than on N/A engines.The top ring gets hot and expands.If the ring butts together your not going to be a happy camper.I'm not a big fan of Eagle anything and nitrous is hard on engines.True enough they sell you as big a shot as 200 plate,but not the rest of the story.You should have a dedicated separate fuel supply for race gas and the electronics to retard the ignition timing at the top end.Forged pistons,GOOD forged rods(not the lowest cheapest common denominator),and not a open question cast crank,with good rings.I coined a name for a concept.It's call "the open book build". No budget,no time limits.You just over a open time span when money is available collect the good parts you need in a build with clear goals.When you done you add up what is cost to do.And you are mindful that do-overs cost more................
 

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On the bottle,nothing below 2,500.

As long as you posted here and not in the engine section,What have you done with the F-body's suspension and approaching high 9's,what have you done about a roll bar/cage??.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On the bottle,nothing below 2,500.

As long as you posted here and not in the engine section,What have you done with the F-body's suspension and approaching high 9's,what have you done about a roll bar/cage??.
Ya im not sure if i posted in the right section...the motor is in a fox body mustang mini tub. it has a 8 point
I havent weight the car yet...I cant use nitrous in a car that weights less than 2500?
Do i have make it a separte fuel system for the nitrous even if its a 150 shot on a plate system?
would you recommend a nitrous conroller for a 150 shot? because my car is a lighter?
thanks I Appreciate the help everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Race fuel mix with pump?

Hey guys..
If I run a separate mini fuel system cell for my nitrous with race fuel...can I have pump gas in my primary cell??

Will this mess up the distribution of nitrous/fuel?

Thanks for the Feedback... advice pointed me the direction needed to go Fast:D
 

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fox suspensions

You can drop the front cross member. slot the holes about and inch and move the front wheels forward, with smaller front tires you shouldn't have to modify the fender lip. motor back as tight to the firewall as possible. Mini tub ? the stock Fox rear suspension attaches to the floor, you need stronger mounting points . on a fox that has been driven hard you can pull the rear seat and see distortion and maybe even a few broken welds. do you have the sub frame kit installed . with what you are planning too do you should have the ladder type on each side. more tie plates. front structure should have a tubing square added to the front radiator support,fender to fender on top and bottom rail to bottom rail.A full width brace across the back of the engine compartment fender to fender, then add the shock tower to cowl bracing and shock tower to shock tower cross brace. Bird cage the inner parts of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My concerns are the block I have...will it be ok for what im looking to do? quote...

The block will take all kinds of nitrous power. So will the crank rods pistons etc.

What no engine component will take is detonation for long. If you want trouble free racing on nitrous
run it on 110+ octane race gas. Detonation is you enemy. Quality high octane fuel is your friend.
The cam is small for a max nitrous effort.
So I dont need 1.5 gal cell....just run straight from my primary cell another fuel pump and use race gas...pretty simple I guess.
okay...so when i use nitrous put race gas in and when i want to drive it on the street then what? can this nitrous race gas motor run on pump gas??
this is what i really want to know
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You can drop the front cross member. slot the holes about and inch and move the front wheels forward, with smaller front tires you shouldn't have to modify the fender lip. motor back as tight to the firewall as possible. Mini tub ? the stock Fox rear suspension attaches to the floor, you need stronger mounting points . on a fox that has been driven hard you can pull the rear seat and see distortion and maybe even a few broken welds. do you have the sub frame kit installed . with what you are planning too do you should have the ladder type on each side. more tie plates. front structure should have a tubing square added to the front radiator support,fender to fender on top and bottom rail to bottom rail.A full width brace across the back of the engine compartment fender to fender, then add the shock tower to cowl bracing and shock tower to shock tower cross brace. Bird cage the inner parts of the car.
It's not stock fox everything has been done .. i'll post pics up soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
At a 10.60:1 engine compression ratio you are as near to running on the edge, on good pump gas 92+ octane
as you want to be.
When using nitrous and 10.60:1 cr and it don't matter where or how much or how often,, you want fuel that will not detonate.

What you can actually get away with, epends on a lot of factors. If you have to ask,,, you are best to not skimp on the quality of the fuel in the tank, when- and how ever using nitrous.

Cause when you get it just a little bit wrong. $$$$Its not going to be pretty$$$$.

I built my dedicated nitrous real street pump gas nitrous motor with a intended conservative 9.8:1 cr just for this purpose.
Reliable and powerfull goof proof running on nitrous, on premimum pump gas. go real fast without hurting parts. (I've been doing this a long time and have the trophies to prove it.)

You are on/near the practical naturally aspirated edge already for pump gas. Get used to putting good stuff in the tank when ever you run nitrous on that motor.
The money you spend on high octane gas is well worth it- if engine life matters to you.

With nitrous, quality gasoline is your best friend.
And wether you have a stock block or what ever else will not change that.

The key to successful nitrous and supercharger engines is staying well within the laws of physics.
Engines stay together when ever you do. And fly apart real quick when ever you don't.
The quality of the fuel used is most critical. Race gas is cheaper than pistons.
Alight.. so since my CR is higher a small shot of nitrous is more efficient...I was thinking about a power shot system fixed shot I've heard mixed stuff about it...I wasnt planning on spraying more than 150 to be honest with you..But yes! I will use race gas when using nitrous....I know run the carb little fatter and retard the timing...But when using race gas on a street pump gas motor.... does it effect anything else?? do i have to re-tune the motor for this?
Thanks again
 
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