[mjgord51]

Yes I know most don't Hot Rod a 68 C10, some do though. And yes I know Hot Roding is all about swapping out Stock parts for better up-graded parts at times but here's my problem. I have a VERY MUCH STOCK 68 C10 that one or more of the prior owners has swapped out different years of parts I guess to keep it on the road. PROBLEM is what was swapped out wasn't right for the truck or the other parts being used with, meaning the Original Ball Joints (68 C10) were still in when the 92 front Disc Brake spindles were installed and here's where the Problem lies, a period correct (71-87 C10's) Center Link/Drag Link used for Disc Brakes was also installed. Now I know the 68 ball joint should have been changed to a 92 ball joints "but they wasn't". I didn't figure it all out untill I purchased the inner & outer tie rods, upper & lower ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm all were bought and saw they wouldn't fit on the 71-87 Center Link. Being I am restoring the truck to pretty much Stock Form (68 C10) I found the correct Brake system (drum brakes) and a 63-70 Center Link to be correct for the trucks year.

I know long winded,LOL. What I would like to get is the Measurements for the total lengths right and left sides when the inner & outer Tie rod and the adjustable sleeve is all put together and adjusted properly. What is on my truck now is wrong so I am Starting out from scratch. Anybody out there have a stock 68 C10 with stock suspension to get the measurements from?

I know it probably is a "needle in a haystack" question but I have Confidence in you guys or gals.

Thanks in advance for any info you could/can provide for me. Marvin aka mjgord51

 

[johnsongrass1]

Set you toe close to where you want it and measure the C-C of the holes in the drag link and steering arms

 

[mjgord51]

Set you toe close to where you want it and measure the C-C of the holes in the drag link and steering arms

I know my thread was a little long and could have been a little confusing but somewhere in it I ask for the "Total Length" of the "assembled" tie rods ( truck with alignment done) along with the adjuster sleeves L&R sides for a 1968 C10. I guess I am looking for that person with a 68 C10 with "Stock" front suspension parts. No Offense taken either way :>)

 

[ogre]

truckrods rule! there is a forum just for your year/model truck
lots of modifiers, but also stock trucks of all years

The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

 

[mjgord51]

truckrods rule! there is a forum just for your year/model truck
lots of modifiers, but also stock trucks of all years

The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Thanks but no thanks.I got kicked off by catching a member in a Lie and posted his wrong doings then was kicked off for life, same person (sawman) also didn't ship the parts he sold to other members like (9) nine of them, all his excuses went on for months and in the long run he did get his membership revoked and still to this day (2) two years later mine is still not been reinstated. Great info but $ h ! T T y Administration the two at the top doesn't realize when someone is/was trying to help them get rid of the cheaters and liar's

 

[ExcellenceAuto]

Set you toe close to where you want it and measure the C-C of the holes in the drag link and steering arms

This. Above.

You won't even need a floor jack. Just a smooth, level, shop floor. And a sharp eye.

I could give you the number you are after, but mines a 78.
Nothing wrong with a good running truck. They sure are heavy though...

 

[mjgord51]

This. Above.

You won't even need a floor jack. Just a smooth, level, shop floor. And a sharp eye.

I could give you the number you are after, but mines a 78.
Nothing wrong with a good running truck. They sure are heavy though...

I'll try (johnsongrass 1) method. My 68 C10 shipped out at 3,602 lbs for a 6 cyl. Now a SBC V8 that the shipping weight was 3,745 lbs not bad for the times. I did read that SSR came in real close to 5,000 lbs, now that was a Heavy Turd.

 

[RWENUTS]

How many scales has your truck been on?
Both my 67 gmc lwb 6 3ott and 65 swb 6 3ott have scaled at 4300 lbs. same weight on 3 different scales.
That’s with no driver and 1/2 a tank full.

Is the centre link you now have, for a six banger or v8. I think they’re different.

 

[kso]

With tie-rod assembled length being the last link in bringing together varied factors into a final precise dimension, and being of-course very adjustable, to have a figure to independently set it to is kinda...I dunno how you'd say, not "valid"? However it never hurts to have figures to reference to. I had to drive to the hardware store yesterday and found myself watching for old Chevy trucks (there are a few of them in this town) to slide under with a tape measure, but all I saw was a '70-or-so 3/4-ton and I would have had to follow him 'til he parked.

 

[mjgord51]

How many scales has your truck been on?
Both my 67 gmc lwb 6 3ott and 65 swb 6 3ott have scaled at 4300 lbs. same weight on 3 different scales.
That’s with no driver and 1/2 a tank full.

Is the centre link you now have, for a six banger or v8. I think they’re different.

I personally haven't put it on a scale.

Heres my proff, The info I have found comes from the GM Heritage Center, 68 C10-CS/6cyl= 3602lbs. 68 C10-CE/V8= 3745, both for Fleetside LWB at 127". Shipping weight is just that Shipping weight pretty much dry weight.

As for the Center link when buying Steering Parts No Body has ask me if its a 6 or 8 cyl .

GM was good for making some parts as a One Size Fits All deal.

 

[mjgord51]

With tie-rod assembled length being the last link in bringing together varied factors into a final precise dimension, and being of-course very adjustable, to have a figure to independently set it to is kinda...I dunno how you'd say, not "valid"? However it never hurts to have figures to reference to. I had to drive to the hardware store yesterday and found myself watching for old Chevy trucks (there are a few of them in this town) to slide under with a tape measure, but all I saw was a '70-or-so 3/4-ton and I would have had to follow him 'til he parked.

Thanks for being a Eagle Eye Spotter. I have a couple friends that has these trucks (67-72) down your way San Diego wise, one of them "Mike" aka BarnOwl his is modified so no help from him, thee other is "Tremayne" aka Cheyenne Short Step of Tremayne's Trucks Vista,CA his is I think pretty much stock but a little lowered. Mine will be pretty much stock every thing but will have a 2/4 inch drop lower springs. I also have a few Cousins down in San Diego. i live in Yucca Valley,CA just 30 mins from Palm Springs,CA. just a short hop & a jump from each other
thanks again.

 

[RWENUTS]

Appears I’m wrong on the draglink different.
Same for either.
Just pitman arm different length’s and tapered holes angle different.

 

[mjgord51]

Appears I’m wrong on the draglink different.
Same for either.
Just pitman arm different length’s and tapered holes angle different.

Manual Steering Pitman Arm, Power Steering C10 Pitman Arm, 4X4/K10 Power Steering Pitman Arm all different to each other.

 

[cerial]

You need a mockup rod.


Some 5/8" threaded rod
Four 5/8" nuts

You spin the nuts till they are under your spindle/etc. Then double nut them so the nuts do not move.
Now find a bolt that passes through the spindle tightly and set the bolt on the 5/8" nut then weld/tack it to the angle it needs to be.

This will get you very close and this will let you cycle the suspension.

Once you have this measurment you can order the correct parts.

The threaded rod, nuts, etc can be bought at a hardware store. You can build the setup thing for $40. This same thing can be used for mocking up other suspension and steering things also.

You simply spin the nuts to where the thing will mount and lock the two together then tack it before snugging everything down and bam mockup hard mount.

One of those things after the first time you try it learning as you go it will take a bit. The second time you will be able to set it up in the time it took you to read this.

 

[ogre]

Appears I’m wrong on the draglink different.

and the weight of his truck, it didn't appear out of line, as my 58 truk shipped out at 3200 lbs
funny thing... my 09 gmc sierra has sheet metal so thin that the whole bedside moves when i slam the gas door
so thin to get the weight down to 5200 lbs 😲🤦‍♂️

 

[RWENUTS]

Have you put that yellow beast on a scale?
Likely not.
3200 lbs is laughable.
I had an 84 sb with 305 that scaled at 4600 lbs.

 

[mjgord51]

You need a mockup rod.


Some 5/8" threaded rod
Four 5/8" nuts

You spin the nuts till they are under your spindle/etc. Then double nut them so the nuts do not move.
Now find a bolt that passes through the spindle tightly and set the bolt on the 5/8" nut then weld/tack it to the angle it needs to be.

This will get you very close and this will let you cycle the suspension.

Once you have this measurment you can order the correct parts.

The threaded rod, nuts, etc can be bought at a hardware store. You can build the setup thing for $40. This same thing can be used for mocking up other suspension and steering things also.

You simply spin the nuts to where the thing will mount and lock the two together then tack it before snugging everything down and bam mockup hard mount.

One of those things after the first time you try it learning as you go it will take a bit. The second time you will be able to set it up in the time it took you to read this.

All the correct parts I already have so why do I want/need to waste the time and energy to put together some kind of a "thingamajig" or what ever you suggested, Not trying to re-invent the wheel here just looking for that person having a 68 or so C10 with power steering to get the measurements from there truck.

 

[cerial]

My fault. I thought you were missing parts.

You can have 2 same year, make, model trucks and one will have a diffrent spring rate for several reasons.
Thats just one factor which will affect this measurment.

The only way to do this on YOUR APPLICATION is to get it close using proven "garage" methouds then take it to a shop to fine tune the alignment further.

 

[GSheppard]

Yes I know most don't Hot Rod a 68 C10, some do though. And yes I know Hot Roding is all about swapping out Stock parts for better up-graded parts at times but here's my problem. I have a VERY MUCH STOCK 68 C10 that one or more of the prior owners has swapped out different years of parts I guess to keep it on the road. PROBLEM is what was swapped out wasn't right for the truck or the other parts being used with, meaning the Original Ball Joints (68 C10) were still in when the 92 front Disc Brake spindles were installed and here's where the Problem lies, a period correct (71-87 C10's) Center Link/Drag Link used for Disc Brakes was also installed. Now I know the 68 ball joint should have been changed to a 92 ball joints "but they wasn't". I didn't figure it all out untill I purchased the inner & outer tie rods, upper & lower ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm all were bought and saw they wouldn't fit on the 71-87 Center Link. Being I am restoring the truck to pretty much Stock Form (68 C10) I found the correct Brake system (drum brakes) and a 63-70 Center Link to be correct for the trucks year.

I know long winded,LOL. What I would like to get is the Measurements for the total lengths right and left sides when the inner & outer Tie rod and the adjustable sleeve is all put together and adjusted properly. What is on my truck now is wrong so I am Starting out from scratch. Anybody out there have a stock 68 C10 with stock suspension to get the measurements from?

I know it probably is a "needle in a haystack" question but I have Confidence in you guys or gals.

Thanks in advance for any info you could/can provide for me. Marvin aka mjgord51

I had a 72GMC, why not use the 71-72 Disc brake spindles? All the original components would work. Mine had 2' dropped spindles, they were for the 67-72 front, not later ball joints.

 

[mjgord51]

I had a 72GMC, why not use the 71-72 Disc brake spindles? All the original components would work. Mine had 2' dropped spindles, they were for the 67-72 front, not later ball joints.

I know all about the usage of 71-72 frt Disc Brake system . Anyway its almost impossible to find those parts all together if one wants to stay with OEM fitment parts from 67-72 years. Aftermarket is ok for some but its not the direction I'm going with my truck for the most.

You see I like when going to the Auto Parts stores I just like telling the parts Person I have a 68 C10 and I need this or that part for it, you see mixing different years of parts on something (car/truck) requires you to have a Note Book or a Folder of what you used on your truck/car (year,part,model) and so forth. Not what I am looking for. Yes I know its a 50 plus year old truck but its the Challenge of keeping it close to as original as possible.