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that´s an openended question. Do you hav welding skills? want to DIY or pay for it? Are you prone to but kit car parts or willing to go to Pick-A-Part and get dirty? How big is you bank? Do you menat hidden electrical latches or door poppers that spring the doors open? If the latter, there are several aftermarket suppliers that sell them and they aren´t that expensive. Check the rod mag ads or Yearwood, RB´s, etc. websites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advise, my bank is not big by any means so I aay m definetly do myself.My welding skills arent the best but good enough to cut and fill with new sheet metal. I want a mech kit to open the door from the bottom of the car.Maybe some thing i can push up with my foot(if thier is such a thing) well see thanks
 

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Then you definitely should go with electrical solenoids. GM Starter solenoids are the trick. You can buy $$ commercial kits but why? Just get some junk yard ones for a couple bucks apiece, wire them for all time battery voltage, install a hidden momentary push button switch to each door (preferably w\an isolation keyed switch too) and you are in business. Auto parts stores sell a neat momentary PB switch w/ built in rubber cover for weather proofing. Do a search on this site for welding sheet metal/patch panels, etc. There is a wealth of info on welding in the handle patch. Saving grace is the sheet metal is usually strongly compounde curved near the door handle which greatly reduces shrinkage problems.

This is a classic 40´s 50´s hot rod trick, been done 10,000´s of times.
 

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Would power door lock or trunk solenoids be powerfull enough to work on door latches?

That would save you some cash, tons of them in the boneyards.
 

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Never tried those but may work. Definitely smaller which is attractive. Can´t go wrong with the starter ones though - they can pull the world in half!! Best suggestion is get one of each from the junk yard and try them. Report back here if the door lock one works - good info to share.
 

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and take pics man.

there isn't enough good ford stuff in the journals anyway.

my advice, good hot welds, set your wire speed (if your migging) to where you get left with not a lot of weld to dress down.
the more you grind, the thinner the metal gets.
and work the welds hot.
the metal is still fairly soft and malleable hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im working up some drawlings now. I dont have a scanner to install the pics. I think the door and trunk might work well see. Buy I was thinking some thing like a spring and latch under the hood and put a spring push button on the bottom of the car. I definitely want it to bee shave .keep you guys posted
 

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I know this may sound like stupid question, but how to the selenoids work in this situation. I am sure it is an easy concept, I just dont quite know how selenoids operate overall. Starting or for shaved doors.
 

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If you have to do it, I would not do mine over, it´s best to buy a remote door opening kit from someone like VPA, Summit do them.
I have their model 80158DP for 2 door cars on my Camaro,
it comes with 15 pound solenoids to work the door latch.
I am having trouble with my driver side solenoid at the moment and have ordered 35 pound solenoids.
The doors have to be hung just right with no sag, worn hinges must be seen to.There is also wiring and fabrication required to
mount the solenoids and install the cable that pulls the latch,
and bet your life it´s in a place your hands don´t fit.
On the upside the car looks much cleaner, probanly better to find other door handles you can weld in smooth out and paint body color to hide them.
 

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Some more info., the cables on the solenoids attach to the door latch where the rod from the door handle attached.Some way has to be found to hold the outer cover of the solenoid cable and attach it to the latch lever,
not shown in the previous reply image.
The brain for the system is mounted under the dash and wires run to the doors and through relays operate the "pull" solenoids.
The doors are opened by a remote two button controller,
one button for each door.
 

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Malc - those are pretty anemic looking solenoids! Starter solenoids from GM starters are max power and should open even the F-body car doors. If you hook the solenoids to the door lever with a piece of 1/8" rod it won't need the bracket that a cable would and it won't fail as easily either.
 

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If I could only pop out of the house and pickup car parts as you guys can I would have done a bunch of stuff differently.
As I said I have some more powerful solenoids on their way,
if they do the job well I will change my mind on shaved doors.
You have to admit they change the car.
 

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If you want to go cheap and mechanical, Spal sells a mechanical kit for about $30.00. You could also run a cable from the latch through the door and outside to the inner fenderwell, maybe down to where you are talking about as well . No battery problem to worry about. I think that is similar to how the Spal kits work. I know Martin S mentioned something about doing this on VWs in the past. It is the way I am going. Reliable, cheap and easy in my opinion. Let us know how things work out for you.
 

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They are bolted to the top of the starter. Any GM car thru the 80s will have them. Don't know how they are from 90s up. Probably changed like they have all the other parts on the cars. Actually, I looked at a picture of solwnoids since the 70s and they won't work. They don't have front on them - that is part of the starter housing on the later models. Guess only the ones fromthe 50s would work. Bummer. I gues syou could make a front out of sheet metal if you are handy then it would work. That is what I would do if it were me. DIY, cheap, and way stronger than commercial solenoids.

Late model one

Early one

These are expensive ebaY ones but junk yard ones will be really cheap.
 
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