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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I would like to thank Brian for taking time out to get me those pics on my trucks windshield measurement. After carefully measuring and re- measuring here's what I found. On the Driver side a pillar it is slightly pushed in little more than a half inc in and down. Then on the same side the driver side door opening needs to be pulled back from the hinges about 1/4 inch also. But basically as is suspected its rolled in on the driver side front. Heres a pic to kind of describe it the red arrows do a bad job but they basically roll in the direction the cabs pushed in :

Now my question. my only experience here in San Antonio with a body shop was a really bad one. Basically I got ripped off for 450 bucks on a frame repair job. So now I'm asking you guys, to get this type of pull done, what is a fair price? And Does anyone here in San Antonio know of a good body shop? The one I went to had every certification possible I-Car etc and been in business for 50 years. I know I can't produce enought pull with a come along so I'm going to leave this one to the experts.
 

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Frame time is difficult to estimate.

450.00 is probably somewhere between 8-10 hours of frame time.

1-2 hours will be setup and measurements - the rest of the time would be pulling and fitting the panels.

If you are using aftermarket parts in the repairs - add more time...these panels never line up correctly and take additional time to make fit.

Another problem for the shop is when you strip the old parts off prior to a pull...for a lot of newer cars you are better off to make the initial pulls on the damaged sheet metal.

Is this rig really worth the effort?
 
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Another problem for the shop is when you strip the old parts off prior to a pull...for a lot of newer cars you are better off to make the initial pulls on the damaged sheet metal.
EXACTLY! There is a good chance that some of the work you have done will make the job real hard to do without really damaging the replaced parts. One of the FIRST things done is to verify the measurements or openings and such. Then the parts that need replacing are removed and replaced, verifying the locations as you go along.

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
She'w worht it.

Thanks for the reply Rambo,
1) yes she's worth it an 01 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 54k on the clock.
2) No old parts on this puppy, I've already purchased replacement OEM part
 
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Texas..... If you can't get a recommendation here, you might check with your insurance agent. Most insurance companies, or atleast the adjusters, know where the best body shops are. The adjusters are in the shops all the time, and see how the work is done. I was an adjuster for a few years. I knew what shops I would have work done in, and the ones to avoid at all costs. Many times the best shops are not the ones most people would expect.

Also, just having a frame machine don't mean that they know how to use it. The way that thing needs to be pulled, you want someone that really knows what they are doing. They can make it more of a mess than the accident did.

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Measurment Questions.

OK, I built my own tram and actually got ahold of a measuring tape that was MM. So I'm measuring using my home built tram and the measurments are coming out much better. But one basic question? When measuring from point to point are you measuring from the cener of each bolt location? from each end or front? I have to tell you making the tram was the reall trick to see what has happened on this trick. So I just wanted to ask you experts is it center to center or back to back or front to front Or??? what ever gets your measurment exact? Hey why are those trams so darn expensive?
:pimp:
 

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All measurements will be center to center.

Have you ever stopped by Flores Bros. on hiway 87 east of 410??
Very reasonable and patient----IF the feel like working on it.
If you do go by there---have a look at the Toyota pick-up
This was really twisted up by an 18 wheeler.
AND--they were the ones that took care of my rear window opening on the Elky when that OTHER bozo royally screwed it up.

Bryan
 
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When measuring from bolt to bolt, or hole to hole, the measurements are normally from center to center. You can usually also go from front of hole to front of hole, or the rears of holes. As long as you measure to the same point on the holes, it should be the same distance. Often, if measuring from bolt heads, and the tram has pointed "pointers", you can use a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket on both bolt heads. The pointers will center in the sockets for measurement.

Also, as a general rule, the measurements are expected to be + or - 3 milimeters from the factory. I have however, seen many times that they are off further than that on new vehicles.

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man these guys were great.

You know what I got the pulls done for 250 and those guys did a great job. Everything lines up really sweet now. I'm putting everything back on and doing a little patch work and then its off to paint on the hippo liner on the whole truck
 
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