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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I feel like a shrinking disk is gonna be my best/cheapest option but had a few questions:
Anyone try the $38 dollar Ebay shrinking disks? Would they work as well as the ones from Sunchaser or Eastwood?

Do srinking hammers and dollys work? How well?

Other than and OA torch, what else can you use to heat the metal? Would a propane torch like you'd use to solder copper joints get hot enough?

Thanks.
 

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If you are talking about the ones from ProShaperTools, they are second to none. Wray has a great rep in the metal shaping world. I own two of these and use them constantly. Just make sure you use eye protection and keep the disk flat against the metal. I use a damp towel to start the shrinking.
 

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Lhorn said:
I feel like a shrinking disk is gonna be my best/cheapest option but had a few questions:
Anyone try the $38 dollar Ebay shrinking disks? Would they work as well as the ones from Sunchaser or Eastwood?

Do srinking hammers and dollys work? How well?

Other than and OA torch, what else can you use to heat the metal? Would a propane torch like you'd use to solder copper joints get hot enough?

Thanks.

I LOVE my Shrinking Disc-I bought mine form John Kelly (a Member here), and it has been great. I understand the ones from Sunchaser are good, but I don't think they have the safety edge and are rippled. I would definitely agree on Proshaper Tools, Wray Schelin is a pioneer (as well as John), and makes good stuff.

Shrinking Hammers (haven't seen a Shrinking Dolly) actually do damage to a Panel because they shrink by making mini-distortions-I guess that's o.k. if you are going to Bondo over it, but I would use a Shrinking Disc instead of a Shrinking Hammer anyday-you can keep a Panel smooth. If you are making a Patch Panel, and need to shrink, you could also consider using a Tucking Fork. If you are simply straightening Panels I would (again) use a Shrinking Disc.

Torches will certainly shrink, but I have a problem controlling them to get the shrink exactly where I want it- a Disc will act like a Block Sander-it will flatten controllably, and you can even make a reverse curve if shrank enough. One last thing-if you do buy a Shrinking Disc, and have turned off the Grinder letting the Disc slow down, be certain to leave it on the Panel until the Disc stops-don't ask me how I know- :sweat:

By the way, you haven't told us what you are trying to do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. There are a couple Ebay sellers that I've been looking at, one is Wray, the other is "Wolfes." I'll be certain to buy from Wray since he seems to carry a great reputation.
I've been working on rust repair on a 67 Malibu. There are a couple of areas that I've beaten on excessively in an effort to get them straight and I think the metal is a bit stretched out.
The shrinking dolly (forgot where I saw it) just has a crosshatches cut into the surface. Never knew if those things works at all or were just hocus pocus.

Will the 9 in shrinking discs (seems to be the standard size although they sell 4.5 in as well) fit on a 7 inch grinder? Does the heat affect the rubber backing disc?
 

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I think mine is a 9" Disc, and it is on a 7" Grinder, so I will have to say you are o.k. As for the Backing Disc, no worries-you don't want to get it so hot that the Metal turns blue (if you do, it's too hot)-
 

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I threw together a shrinking disc I made from an old pot lid. I estimated where to drill the hole in the center. I screwed on the center nut thru the hole. It's not perfectly centered so it wobbles a little. Ya know, that might not be a bad thing, because it hammers down the high spot as it shrinks.............I should patent it. :thumbup:
 

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Just get a stainless pot lid and drill the screw hole out to fit your grinder and away you go..I have tried about everything out there and the shrinking disk is the way to go...One can get a fender worked out to nearly perfect with a disk and some patience..

Sam
 
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