Hot Rod Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Show me the money !
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Shot my 4 door today with some cheap trinity single stage acrylic enamel. Yes it is metallic. The damn car is so big I could barely reach over the roof to the middle. so I shot one side and immediately started from the other side ( middle out of course ) I still ended up with what looks like over spray on the half that I started with. and the same over the trunk and hood but not as bad. Anyone have experience buffing this stuff ? I am getting mixed answers from other forums and was hoping someone here could help me out. I have a machine and am quite comfortable with it but have heard not to try to buff the metallic. If it helps it is a very light blue frost color.

Thanks

Matt
 

·
True Hotrodder
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Unfortunately, you would be better off following the directions of the paint (light sanding, blend coating, etc) and re-shooting the panels. A small step stool may help the roof issue? I would also mask off other areas that you do not want over-spray on before re-painting. Buffing a single stage metallic is just going to make everything look worse as you will expose the metallic to the surface in a very uneven pattern. It's just the nature of the paint. The main issue though is definitely figuring out how to get the paint on evenly. I understand the roof but I am afraid I don't quite understand the hood and trunk panels - if it really is a problem it would be best to remove them and put them on sawhorses for the re-paint and that would then leave the roof as the main problem. Other than a step stool I don't have any other ideas for that one.
 

·
Show me the money !
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I was hoping to gently rub it out by hand.. do you think that is an option ? Its the roof .. not going to really see it all that much but right now it looks like two different colors because of the mist.. The hood and trunk aren't too bad.. probably wash off after a few washes.. I sprayed the same paint a few years back with a similar issue and it seemed to look better with time.. Maybe I just got use to it :unsure: Its a hundred bucks for the whole paint kit .. I wasn't expecting show room quality..
 

·
True Hotrodder
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
I was hoping to gently rub it out by hand.. do you think that is an option ? Its the roof .. not going to really see it all that much but right now it looks like two different colors because of the mist.. The hood and trunk aren't too bad.. probably wash off after a few washes.. I sprayed the same paint a few years back with a similar issue and it seemed to look better with time.. Maybe I just got use to it :unsure: Its a hundred bucks for the whole paint kit .. I wasn't expecting show room quality..
I'll put it this way, I know it won't work but at $100 if you ruin it completely its not a huge loss. And for a $100 more, you can try to fix it later. $200 in a full paint job is still pretty cheap. But if you have enough paint leftover right now, I would try to fix it correctly. At worse, you use up some amount of time and the leftover paint and still don't get it right.

I have a full fiberglass front end on my car. My youngest granddaughter backed my golfcart into the car and messed up the right fender and front headlight area pretty good. I repaired all of the fiberglass and re-shot the repair. I rushed through it and it looks like crap and no amount of rubbing, sanding or anything else if going to make it look "right". So sometime this off-season I will be sanding off the entire paint job, fixing all the little messed up places and re-shooting it. But I'll take my time and do it right this time and it'll come out with something that I can stand to look at.
 

·
More for Less Racer
Joined
·
19,505 Posts
Also sounds like you had way too fast of a reducer in the paint mix...they make different reducers for use based off the room temperature at the time you paint it. Reducer for cool temps will flash off and dry too fast in hot temperatures and you end up with that dry overspray that didn't melt in.

I agree, any buffing is just going to make things worse....metallics must have a clear coat if you plan to cut and buff them. Even though you may be able to rub it and give it a even look and shine right off, it won't stay that way. The rubbing process exoses the metallic grains to air on the surface and they soon oxidize and it will look even worse.

If you decide to blow another $100 on a second paint kit, try to see if you can get a reducer that matches the weather you plan to shoot in...and maybe consider shooting the car in sections....use plastic sheeting drop cloths to mask off the entire front clip, along with possibly removing the trunk lid too. Spray the main body and roof....then come back a couple days later and reverse the masking and shoot the front clip and trunk lid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
865 Posts
Good Ole Imron. As the others have said, you probably don't want to Buffy.
When painters in a shop have to spray waaayyyy out in the middle, they make a catwalk with a long 2x12 or 2x10. Usually with 5 gallon thinner cans because they are available, but you could use the plastic ones from home repo. Of course its not real stable, so get your distance right before you get paint in the gun. But get up there and walk it with the gun in your hand like you are spraying, to make sure you won't fall off then go to town!
 

·
Grand Prix user
Joined
·
5,416 Posts
Last car I painted was light blue metallic. I shot the roof first, let it dry, masked that then shot the rest.

You have a good excuse to sand down the top and paint it white as was popular when the car was younger.

Your hood and trunk may yeah look alright with some weather and wash mitt cycles.

I agree with reasons given for not sanding and buffing. But after you knock it flat with 600 to repaint, rub up a spot and see if to you the result is an issue.
 

·
Show me the money !
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have enough paint left to re shoot the roof. That's what I'm going to do.
While we are still on the subject, I shot it last year and it was determined that the paint was drying too fast started to lift here and there so I got another gallon of the same stuff. This time I was more aware of the temp and humidity. It sprayed WAY better but still mucked it up. You know what they say, third times a charm ! What I don't understand is the color is so different from last years can. Same name, same product , completely different color. I guess you get what you pay for sometimes. I wanted a light blue but got more of a seafoam color. Maybe its just a different batch or labeled wrong..IDK but I can live with it for now.

Thanks everyone lots of help as usual.
 

·
True Hotrodder
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
There are pro painters on here that can probably give you better advice - I'm just an amateur and paint my own stuff because that's all I can afford to do. I do know that the guy at my paint store told me that a lot of "low dollar" paints are made by just a couple of places and it's just the label on the can that changes. Odds are that even though you bought a can identical to last years, it might be a different paint maker?
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top