[ecrusch1987]

I was driving my car tonight. Turned a sharp corner going about 15 and it suddenly cut out. I thought i ran out of gas so i put some in. Nope not the problem. I have no spark, I had 2 blown fuses so i replaces them but nope still no spark where would the coil be located anyone please help...

The car is a 1989 chevy corsica with the 6 cylender, auto trans.

Thanks for the help anyone can offer... the car gods hate me :boxing:

Eric

 

[MuscleBlock81]

I don't know if the sharp corn has anything to do with your car dying.
To check for spark (works best in the dark) take a spark plug out and still have the wire hooked up to it, turn the motor over and see if a spark arcs across the points. If it does, you have spark, if it doesn't...

Then you might have blown your "fuse links" these are like fuses only they are a certain guage wire that "burns up" before the rest of your fuses and wires in your car do when you have too much current (amps).

These are USUALLY localed on the wires comming out of the starter or where ever the main power from your battery is located (usually off the starter). Use a light tester to probe the wire after the fuse link to see if it/they burned up. (they stop electrical flow when they burn up). Yours would probably be 16AWG (guage) i'm guessing.

If this is not your problem then power TO the ignition or the ignition stsyem itself is to blame. Come to think of it, probe the positive wires going TO your ignition to see if you have power FIRST BEFORE YOU CHECK YOUR FUSE LINKS!! if you don't have power to your ignition, THEN try the fuse links. IF YOU DO HAVE POWER TO YOUR IGNITION.....

You problem might lay within your computer, coil, or modual. OR dependent upon what happend, it might not be your ignition system at all.

This should give you enough to chew on for a while, let us know

 

[docvette]

Power

Doc hereimp:

First off, What Fuses Blew? Were They ECM, INJ, or ECU?

If so check them again, they might have blown the millisecond you turned the key back on.

A Fusible link USUALLY will take out ALL your electrical functions, lights, CD player, etc...Some Systems have Fusible Linked Subsystems for the Charging system and the like, However the Computer is usually on the main fusible link and fuse buss.

Is that an HEI Distributor or opti spark?

For The HEI, turn the Key on and Check the "Batt" Terminal at the cap for 12 volts. If it's not there go for an ECU or ECM fuse...If that's good Try a jumper from the battery to the Cap, If it starts, you have an "Open" Between the Ignition Switch and the Cap, check and repair/ or replace.

If the 12 volts is good, pull the cap, hook a DMM up to the "Batt" Terminal, and the rotor button pickup on the cap. Set your DMM for auto range, and it should read between 6k ohms and 30k ohms...If 0.00 or lower than 6k, or higher than 30k or infinite, replace the coil.

If the coil is good, Pull the distributer module, take it to your local autozone and have it tested..If it tests Good, Check your magnetic pickup and pole piece and/or just replace it.

Those are usually what takes out the spark...If they all test good, Then inspect your main wiring harness going into the firewall, It may be loose or corroded causing the failure when you made the corner...

BTW,If you have a timing light, just hook it up and put the inductive probe on any plug wire as close as possible to the spark plug, as you crank, it will strobe if you have spark..Much better than getting bit...

Hope it helps!
Good luck and tell us what you find!

Doc imp:

 

[hmmm]

Did just the engine die or did the whole car get cut out of power?
I had something similar with a Camaro happen. Turns out I grounded the positive lead to the starter to the exhaust. Killed everything. Blew a few fuses too. Didn't go anywhere till I figured it out and pulled it off of the exhaust. lol

 

[RCastle]

I had a 90 Beretta with the six in it.One day it just died while driving.The coil packs on those are in the dumbest place,mounted to the block,under the exhaust manifolds with the heat from the radiator pulled right over top of them.The car would run fine until they just got too hot,then all would die.After allowing them to cool down it would start right back up.Not saying that is his problem,but it could be a place to look.This engine in the Corsica may have the came set up without the distributor,just coil packs,not for sure if they do or not though.

 

[ecrusch1987]

Not sure if i mentioned this before. When I made the corner only the engine cut out so i thought i ran out of gas. It will still turn the motor though and it acts like it has no spark.

I tried the timing light idea, nothing. Spare sparkplug, nothing. So there is no spark. Where do i go from here.


Now time to answer the questions
MuscleBlock81

I checked all the "fuse links", they are fine.

docvette

These two fuses blew 5 ((20 amp) Cigar lighter (sedan) trunk release) and 9 ((20 amp) Guages/warning indicator, audible warning system, computer command control, rear window defogger, rear wiper/washer, air conditioner). I was hoping the it was just fuse 9 blew but nope. They are all still in tact and in working order.

The timing light idea didn't work so there is for sure no spark (but everyother electrical piece in the car does work.)

hmmm

Just cut out the engine during the corner and everything else continued to work.

RCastle

I could only wish that it would have been that easy but with it being there over 10 hours cooling down i made another attempt but there are still no signs.

Well i figured out one thing the other night at least-when you go through 5 cars in 4 months and then your other two die the car gods must really hate me.:boxing:

Eric

 

[docvette]

Re: Again...

Doc hereimp:


Is that an HEI Distributor or opti spark?

For The HEI, turn the Key on and Check the "Batt" Terminal at the cap for 12 volts. If it's not there go for an ECU or ECM fuse...If that's good Try a jumper from the battery to the Cap, If it starts, you have an "Open" Between the Ignition Switch and the Cap, check and repair/ or replace.

If the 12 volts is good, pull the cap, hook a DMM up to the "Batt" Terminal, and the rotor button pickup on the cap. Set your DMM for auto range, and it should read between 6k ohms and 30k ohms...If 0.00 or lower than 6k, or higher than 30k or infinite, replace the coil.

If the coil is good, Pull the distributer module, take it to your local autozone and have it tested..If it tests Good, Check your magnetic pickup and pole piece and/or just replace it.

********************************************
If you don't take the time to research it, you won't fix it...symptoms like this are not "just fix this" and it will run. Go back and methodically do the steps, and you should find the problem...

Hope it helps!
Good luck and tell us what you find!

Doc imp: