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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just wanted to make sure before i buy any that when i read the Por-15 catalog and it says for use over rust. if i buy the kit to do all the prep stuff and all i can apply it directly over rust. no sandblasting, no grinding it down to bare metal, none of that. also can i use any type of body filler over it.

i just dont want to buy something again that says can be used on rust and than it dont work. because i bought a product at the auto part store that said to spray onto rusty areas and it will convert it into a black primer. well it was some what a black primer for a few days that when i when back to look at it a few days later it just rusted out my panel.

thanks Fordy8man
 

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POR15 and your auto parts spray are good for LIGHT rust where you see mostly metal and a light red tint. Nothing will work on heavy rust, regardless of what the advertising hype says. The only solution is grind, sandblast, or redi-dip.
 

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If you have thick scaly rust you'll have to wire brush it off and it's a good idea to wire brush it anyway just to get off the loose stuff. POR will do a good job if you follow the directions and prepare the metal correctly. I have done a couple frames with it and have had absolutely no problems.

I would not suggest you use POR as a finish coat on any surface that will be subject to UV light (sunlight). It will chalk if subjected to UV although it's rust protection is not effected.

Centerline
 

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Not intending to contradict Willys36, you should do the prep right, but you know what they say, "seeing is believing" !!!

I used it on my first project 3 years ago. On the frame to freshen it up. There were some spots which should have been properly prepped but it was late and... you know the old story.

Well I hit two areas that were heavily rusted, pitted, etc. with a straight coat of POR 15. Actually two coats.

Since then no rust has returned from under the POR 15.

That stuff seals TIGHT !!!! Can't say the rust will never return but 3 years and counting, so far so good.

Disclaimer1, I have no interest in the company that produces POR 15, I'm just a user.

Disclaimer 2, I have had problems where the prep didn't clean the surface of contaminants completely, as directed, and this stuff will peel off in sheets.

So the moral is do it right the first time. I may just be the lucky one.
 

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Just a word of caution when using Por15. Wear latex gloves! and old clothes. Whatever you get the paint on it's there for the duration. If you get it on your skin and it dries, it will have to wear off. Nothing, including solvent, paint thinner, gasoline, will take it off. The voice of experience.
mike
 

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POR15 will not stick to clean metal, unless it's etched. It also won't stick to paint, or primer. It also won't stick to itself without sanding the first coat, unless it's less than 24 hours old. It will stick very well to rust, as long as it's not loose rust.

If you plan on painting over it, best bet is to squirt some primer on it as soon as it sets up, 4 to 8 hours. Then prep the primer as you normally would. You can use any type paint over it.

A product I like better is Rust Bullet. Works pretty much the same way, but can be recoated without sanding for up to 6 months. It will also bridge pinholes. You can also use filler over Rust bullet with no further prep work. And rust bullet will work on new metal, with no prep, outside of degreasing.

http://rust-bullet.tux.nu/

I used to sell them both, but no longer have any connection to either.
 

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i had very rusty trunk floor in my charger, I took vacuum scraped everything loose off of it, not much prep, just clean scaly rust. put 2 coats on it, very nice, that stuff wont ever rust through again. just dont do it over rusted through panels. nothing but cutting them out and replacing with good metal will save it.
 

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You are probably right. The spray stuff was likely just phosphoric acid which converts rust temporarily and must be coated with paint to secure the rust conversion whereas POR15 is a water cured urethane that cures to a permanent monolith. It does like sticking to anything (including skin!) and does tie up rust pretty well. My main concern is that Fordy sounds like he wants a solution with no work involved and that is a bad work habit to develop. Getting totally rid of rust is the ONLY sure way to be rid of it. These 'miracle chemicals' are pretty nice insurance against rust that you miss but I prefer to remove every bit I can before using them. But them I took 35 years to get my Willys on the road so take that into consideration too!
 

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chopper1 said:
Just a word of caution when using Por15. Wear latex gloves! and old clothes. Whatever you get the paint on it's there for the duration. If you get it on your skin and it dries, it will have to wear off. Nothing, including solvent, paint thinner, gasoline, will take it off. The voice of experience.
mike


I use it a lot in the marine industry.. VEGTABLE OIL!!!! soak your body part for about 30 min.. wipes off. your pores absorb the oil and swells it up.. works for me anyways...

and if you catch it wet.. xylol or the por 15 solvent works
 

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Fordy,

For rust to continue to "grow" it has to have H2O and O2 and a small electric charge (even from static electricity). (Just like a fire, fuel/o2/spark).

Eliminate any one, rust can't grow.

POR15 and bedliner and ZR paint and epoxy works as a very very good h2o barrier. KEY thing is it has to grab hard and tight to the metal so do as much prep and cleaning as you can.

I agree with Willys36, if you can do any sanding and blasting do it so the POR etc. can grab better/last longer.

Rust converters don't work because the converted rust crystals are not bonded and sealed to the good steel. What you saw is "new" rust starting. Converters (acid) only react with existing rust and then go neutral in a day or so reacting with moisture in the air=new rust.

The converter I use, when I have to, is the Duplicolor because it is a heavy acrylic mix and helps seal the crystals and surface. Again, I only use it as a last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to let you guys know a little more, Im not just going to throw it on some real badly rusted panels. I have sanded, grinded, and sandblasted them as best as i could. i cant get exactly all of the rust so i need another solution. im not trying to find a solution that involves no work but where im at now its the last resort. when i first posted i was asking because the catalog that i was reading made it out that you could just through this stuff on a badly rusted area and your problems would be over. i wanted to make sure it wasent some kind a gimic thing that i was going to spend my money on.
but in all thanks for all the advise guys.
Fordy8man
 

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It works great, next best thing to powder coating BUT I hate to see it used as the first resort. Sounds like you have done good prep work so give it a try.

On second thought, here is a brand new thread by our resident metal magician Randy Ferguson on this very topic. His method does away with the need for a gimmick by totally removing the rust which is a good thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
enjenjo, were can i get a catalog for the Rust bullet. i rather order something out of a catalog than off the internet. does this stuff not require the stuff that comes in the spray bottles with por-15. can you just put it on the area and and be all set with it.
thanks for you advise Fordy8man
 

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Fordy8man said:
enjenjo, were can i get a catalog for the Rust bullet. i rather order something out of a catalog than off the internet. does this stuff not require the stuff that comes in the spray bottles with por-15. can you just put it on the area and and be all set with it.
thanks for you advise Fordy8man
That stuff in the bottle is just metal etch. You should be able to get a catalog on the web site I listed above. You don't need metal etch for Rust Bullet.
 

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Por 15

POR 15 is neither lacquer nor urethane based, it's based on CA (Cyanoacrylate) aka super glue, which is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture in its curing process. It forms a chemical bond with moisture, neutralizing and immobilizing rust, something that neither lacquer or urethane can do.
 

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POR 15 is neither lacquer nor urethane based, it's based on CA (Cyanoacrylate) aka super glue, which is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture in its curing process. It forms a chemical bond with moisture, neutralizing and immobilizing rust, something that neither lacquer or urethane can do.
If I have a area thats been sandblasted, osphoed, washed and clean but still have a couple dots of rust that i cant get out. Will por 15 work here? 98% cleaned etched metal.
 

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