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Discussion Starter #1
Hoping to get a little feedback on this one.

I've got a huge interior to upholster and I want to make it as quiet as I can. I've come across an alternative to Dynamat, it's called Ice Shield for roofing houses and it's super cheap. I can probably do my whole Suburban for under $100. It's a 1/8" peel and stick asphalt-like material. Thinner than Dynamat and without the heat reflective component. I was thinking of covering every square inch of the interior with this stuff and using that cheap foil-type of emergency blanket for the heat reflection.

Any comments are appreciated. :)
 

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you want to use foil first to reverse penatration of heat, then like heavy carpet pad,1/2 inch thickness. There is no-substitute
for mass, thickness. before foil seal all holes if not already done. I'm a insulation contractor
sprayed in place polyurethane foam,I have to sound deaden walls frequently. There is data to support mass.proven methods, will work on autos also. I am fimilar with Ice dam material, won't hurt but I'd take it a step further with pad.
Good Luck
 

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The Ice Shield must be an "up North" thang....here in L.A. (Lower Arkansas) we barely have cold water, much less ice...sounds like a good thing to seal the entire car with, but the builder supply places here don't have it. Another alternative(hey, it worked for me) is spray on pick up bed liner. It seals, it coats, it smooths, and it's fairly reasonable, less than $50 a gallon at WallyWorld. Just be careful to cover everything you don't want it on, or wipe it off pretty quickly with laquer thinner before it dries if you get it on something it's not meant to be on. I used the insulation stuff sold at Lowe's that is the aluminum foil on both sides type stuff made of air pockets. it molds and contours to every nook and glues down very well. I always use two layers, mis-matching the seams so it doesn't stop and start in the same place. I think the foil backed jute insulation would be better, but it is so very hard to make go over humps and curves, like the tranny hump. Have done the floor in my car three times and used the bubble stuff the last two, it has done a good job. Know lots of other folks round here that used it also with great success. Will inquire about the Ice Shield stuff for future projects, it sounds like a good way to go...
 

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Also available is a aluminum tape that can be used with the foil type insulation to join sections.The insulation and tape is available from many roofing supply that sells metal roofing. I think its called "low e". Works good.
 

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Polyeurethane foam is very good for heat/sound, you can spray this stuff on and not only is it pretty cheap and great for sound and heat it will also help keep small dings from forming because of its strenth, you can get this stuff as strong as 20psi. Its also great if you have a unibody car and want to strengthen, just peel up the carpet move your wires and shoot it in the rails. Just make sure you cover everything you don't want it on, because this stuff will stick to anything and its not a peach to try to clean. If you plan to go this way let me know I'll find the company name and number I used for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback guys. I've gone to great lengths to make the new floorboards as flat as possible, figured it would help when I got to carpeting. From all the ideas given, I think I have a solution for the easy areas and the tough-to-reach areas as well.
 

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better be careful with the spray foam insulation, it expands drastically...it's kinda like BryleCream, a little dab'l do ya. Had a friend who raced fiberglass model boats,so he decided to use the spray foam for floatation....when he filled the hull of his boat and the stuff got through expanding, it ripped the whole top off his model boat....it'll do the same for doors, etc on a car if you get too friskey with it....
 

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Thanks Paco, forgot that little bit of information, Polyurethane foam usually exspands 10x's its size, thats why its so good for the unibody cars because it will fill up those body rails and give your car a stiffer more responsive feel, its great for drag cars or an everyday driver if you want to go that far, but DO NOT use foam you by from the hardware store for this type of instalation, because the foam you by at the hardware store isn't for enclosed areas, if you use this type of foam it will become gummi and sticky and it will never harden and turn into a nasty mess, if your thinking about the enclosed instalation use foam from a company called Foam Seal, they have the best foam for this type of instalation, if you need contact information on this company let me know.

[ April 10, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmm.. Sounds like the same foam I used to use for building fiberglass cores. You're right, if you seal it off, it will never harden.
 

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The foam sold and manufactured by Foam Seal is made for enclosed areas, I used it on my Trans Am and it improved the ride dramatically. I also used the foam in my newest prodject, and its exstremely quiet and because of its strenth, it was a great addition, and it let me acheive the look I was going for, I didn't have to use as many braces helping keep the exsterior of the woodie smooth and flowing without any interuptions, and it also improves your sound system.
 

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I agree that spray foam can be like duct tape, the best thing since sliced bread. But my concern is that it also sometimes traps moisture and helps rot cars from the inside out. Guess it depends on where you live or what your intentions for the car are.
 

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True, working with PUF (polyurethane foam) does require ideal conditions, but if you seal your prodject correctly before the ffoam you should have no problems, I use all PPG products, sealers, primers, and paints. I use PPG because its a good product its easy to use and its fairly economical, and I also have a whole store room full, mixing equipment included straight from PPG. I'd use it even if I didn't though. :cool:
 

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Paco, you might want to ask about Ice and Water Guard. A lot of times it's under that name. I've used it before while re-shingling a garage roof.
I wonder if the under-body spray wouldn't work for this.....
 

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I just know I'm headed for trouble, but here goes . Sound is one of the tough ones . Different areas need different protection please be more direct as to where you are having the most trouble and what you have or have not done so far. One of the hardest problems to over come so take one step at a time. I do not recomend spray expanding foam . #1 it has very little sound damping . #2 after time it will work it's way loose, and the squeek should drive you crazy. Rodder_5
 

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Before doing anything dry your project, don't want to seal moisture in .The SRRAY foam I work with you don't buy in a store, it takes a porportioning machine, heaters, transfer pumps,and a 1200.00 spray gun. My material is set in about 1-minute, the time it takes to cool from 120 degrees when sprayed up to 360 degrees when it raises then down in temp. my material is completly set and never changes in these qualities after incapsulated.My product is a 2-componet system, store product is single component.This is my business spray foam. I wouldn't advise any other foam other then sprayed in place,2-component foam. foil. ice dam material to hold down, heavy pad, carpet,completly dry first!
 

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Pontiacman, Foam Seal is a two componant PUF system, its sold for marine and aotomotive uses it came out about 6-7 years ago when the europeein' racing (hondas and such) became popular in the USA. Its great stuff you should check it out and let me know. I've used the foam you use, I live in a moderate sized monolithic dome that me and a few friends built, we had to shoot that stuff up before the shotcrete.
 

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Hello Holloweenking, I've done monolithic domes before my foam has been around for 20 years, Resin
Tech manufactures it I've been spraying 12 years
over 25000.00 to get equipment here. Its a good sound deadener but better insulation material my product is r-7 per inch thickness, I've done vans
campers, artists also use for bronzes(life size)
It does completely set, 3-inches on sheet rock, 2 ft centers I can walk any where without falling through,don't have to walk on trusses. I'm almost 200 lbs.I have also done boats, cold here in Montana, really keeps heat in,
sound deading is just a extra quality it creates.
 

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Street Rodder had a story a couple months back about a spray on insulation specifically made or cars. It's called Cool Car Ceramic and is only currently available from RB's. The link below well provide the specifics.

<a href="http://www.rbsobsolete.com/NewProducts/CCC.html" target="_blank">http://www.rbsobsolete.com/NewProducts/CCC.html</a>

[ April 22, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
 

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Have you checked out jcwhitney.com or their mags, they sell Heat Shield Insulation that you can buy in bulk rolls they sell 4-ftx24-ft for $65 and a 4-ftx48-ft for $120. JC Whitney has almost everything you would want for that job or resto. Good luck, hope you find what you want at your own affordable rate :)
 

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I plan to use Peel and Seal. Its sorta like what your talking about, its a roofing material that has a shinny alum. then tarie rubber type of material with a peal off back. Turns the echoing "BOOONG" to a quiet "thud". Its pretty thin and cheap. Great for lining doors, fire walls, roofs. I have heard you can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. I have been getting it from a roofing supply company. Later! My two cents!

www.mfmbp.com/peelseal

:p
 
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