Spark plugs black

I have the AFR195 heads and had same experience with the AFR recommended Autolite 3924s covered with soot. I ended up with NGK FR4s, but you might want to start with FR5s. Run a 180 thermostat if you're on the street.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Something's not right if it wont start on 20 degrees initial. Trying to remember if you are the one that bought the all electronic advance distributor (both vacuum and centrifugal). Your builder is making idiotic statements.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Do you have an old hei unit you can put in? Frankly I'm worried about your fancy distributor that wont run when timing is at reasonable settings.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

If you have actually done the timing pointer verification with a piston stop, that could eliminate a lot of if's.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Also, I am told that some models of dial back timing lights have trouble with some performance ignitions (I assume these are the electronic dial back type with timing dial back displayed electronically). Non dial-back lights and timing tape is preferred, but I can attest the old chrome Craftsman dial back lights with a knob to turn are fine. I also have a Flaming River one-wire timing light (non dial back) but its not very bright.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Sounds like the timing pointer is correct.

I think you have more than one problem. Ignition timing with your new distributor is one of them. Flooding is the other.

You can easily check the timing problem by switching to the old HEI. Just like you could check the flooding problem with a different carb.

You shouldn't have to jack with a new AED carb custom made for your vehicle. If you do, then you need to send it back to them for repairs

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

PRNDL said:

I don’t have another carburator, but I’m going to buy a cheap eBay HEI knock off for testing.

Click to expand...

That will work.

For the carb can you see fuel dripping from the boosters at idle? That shouldnt be happening. Can you kill the engine by turning the idle mix screws in?

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

PRNDL said:

Ok guys. I put it all back together. I have the total IDLE timing at 36 degrees. 36 degrees all in at 3000 rpm and 10 degrees vacuum advance excluding timing. Idle is fixed at 36 degrees.

Click to expand...

What do you mean by "total idle timing"?
What do you mean by 10 degrees vacuum advance excluding timing?

Do you mean you have the timing effectively locked at 36 degrees, but add up to 10 degrees on top of this with the electronic vacuum advance?

If you put a timing light on it at idle, do you read 46 degrees using the timing marks? If not, what does it read at what vacuum?
If you put a timing light on it at 3000 rpm in park, do you read 46 degrees using the timing marks?

All of this carb advice desn't apply if the timing isn't right.

PRNDL said:

Ok guys. I put it all back together. I have the total IDLE timing at 36 degrees. 36 degrees all in at 3000 rpm and 10 degrees vacuum advance excluding timing. Idle is fixed at 36 degrees.

Click to expand...

I know about your distributor.

Timing table is goofy at 700 and 960 rpm. Except for 700 rpm at 101 and 94kPa, there is actually more timing than at a higher RPM at same load (vacuum).

Idle is not fixed at 36 degrees (fix timing box is not checked).

You are 36 degrees all in at 2500 for the RPM based advance.

I would be really pi***d if I bought such a distributor that ignored the map sensor below 1000 rpm. It just doesn't make sense that it would.

IMHO you have way too much timing at idle in the table, but it should run OK once you have it above 1000 (if you have reference timing set correctly and the unit works as it is supposed to).