[MumMushroom]

2000 Chevy K2500(obs) with 350 vortec. Installed new long block from AutoZone. When turning over the starter just clicks hard and constantly, but still turns over the engine slowly. When jumping starter relay from signal wire coming from ignition to the starter it turns over perfectly. Changing out the relay does nothing. See picture for more

 

[chasracer]

Based on that info, it sounds like there is a problem with the start wire coming from the ignition switch. You might want to trace it back and see if it's nicked or damaged. Or - just out of the wiring from the column, splice a new wire to the start wire and run it to the solenoid.

 

[MumMushroom]

Based on that info, it sounds like there is a problem with the start wire coming from the ignition switch. You might want to trace it back and see if it's nicked or damaged. Or - just out of the wiring from the column, splice a new wire to the start wire and run it to the solenoid.

The ignition pin in the fuse box has 12 volts

 

[2old2fast]

When you are attempting to start the engine what is the voltage reading at the starter terminals ?

 

[MumMushroom]

When you are attempting to start the engine what is the voltage reading at the starter terminals ?

I never checked that, because I can make it turn over correctly l from the fuse box under the hood. I know everything from the neutral safety switch and fowards has 12 volts

 

[2old2fast]

If you've already checked everything , you should know what's wrong , no?

 

[MumMushroom]

If you've already checked everything , you should know what's wrong , no?

I’ve checked everything but still don’t have an answer

 

[wrenchbend]

we had a post like this a couple of weeks ago. sounds like a bad ground. sounds like the little ground from the battery negative is feeding Ground, however, the main fat lead is not grounding the engine. New long block? just remove the ground and ensure it is good ground it could be sitting on paint . I know it sounds crazy but gives it a shot!

 

[MumMushroom]

we had a post like this a couple of weeks ago. sounds like a bad ground. sounds like the little ground from the battery negative is feeding Ground, however, the main fat lead is not grounding the engine. New long block? just remove the ground and ensure it is good ground it could be sitting on paint . I know it sounds crazy but gives it a shot!

Where should the big ground lead go on the engine?

 

[wrenchbend]

Well it's not that simple what you see in front of you is a ground wire and we assume it is in good shape.
Then it goes to the block. However, does it have an aftermarket terminal on it? are the bolts that clamp the
cable clean and tight or does it wiggle in there? the end that has an eyelet on the end that the bolt goes thru
does it have corrosion coming out of the end? Does it seem to be on the end of the cable and the real question
is it a good conductor in which a ground should pass. that is the real question here. So assuming that the cable
is good, I would go to a threaded bolt hole as close to the starter but on the block. bear in mind a fresh painted rebuild has paint all over the block and possibly in the threads. It should be clean and free of paint Bolt hole that can
receive a ground that can be tightened and secure that leaves no doubt. Now I will ask a dumb question Don't you remember where it was? Not to worry ! I forget all the time as well . let us know how you make out !

 

[MumMushroom]

Well it's not that simple what you see in front of you is a ground wire and we assume it is in good shape.
Then it goes to the block. However, does it have an aftermarket terminal on it? are the bolts that clamp the
cable clean and tight or does it wiggle in there? the end that has an eyelet on the end that the bolt goes thru
does it have corrosion coming out of the end? Does it seem to be on the end of the cable and the real question
is it a good conductor in which a ground should pass. that is the real question here. So assuming that the cable
is good, I would go to a threaded bolt hole as close to the starter but on the block. bear in mind a fresh painted rebuild has paint all over the block and possibly in the threads. It should be clean and free of paint Bolt hole that can
receive a ground that can be tightened and secure that leaves no doubt. Now I will ask a dumb question Don't you remember where it was? Not to worry ! I forget all the time as well . let us know how you make out !

I bought the truck with the engine already gone apart, with half this bolts missing. I’m gonna check that ground spot tonight

 

[2old2fast]

If , as you stated , the starter. is functional when you jump the terminals , the grounding is adequate .

 

[MumMushroom]

If , as you stated , the starter. is functional when you jump the terminals , the grounding is adequate .

I thought so, man I’m thinking it has to be that relay, is getting the right voltage all the way around, the only thing stopping it from reaching the starter is that relay. Maybe it’s a coincidence that the other two relays didn’t work or were different

 

[wrenchbend]

OK then this cannot hurt, Take a Known good set of jumper cables and grab the NEGATIVE terminal with both red and black cables then find good ground locations and apply the other side of the cables. in essence, you are using the jumper cables as negative cables and see if your engine cranks. the little ground wire that comes off your battery cable is enough to make the solenoid click but won't ground a starter motor. Let us know what you find! you can grab the battery ground with vice grips if you feel the need for a good place to grab your cables with. also parts of the engine
that you feel are a good ground can be grabbed with vice grips to provide a good location for ground. best of luck and
keep us posted !