Starter Keeps Spinning
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Checy-guy,
If what you are saying is that the starter stays in mesh with the flywheel even after the engine has started up then the problem is in the solenoid. This does tow things it causes the battery to be connected to the starter but it also puts the starter pinion gear into contact with the flywheel. If for some reason the voltage from the battery keeps the solenoid engaged then the starter keeps spinning.
So yes it could be the key is keeping voltage going to the solenoid which you can test by taking the wire off of the starter and hooking a volt meter to the end. Then turn the key like you were trying to start the engine. Then let the key go and if you still have 12volts then the key is the problem.
But what I have found is that when you or who ever put the starter in, caused the "start" wire to come in contact with the run wire at the starter. So when you turn the key the starter cranks but then when you let go of the key the "run" wire keeps battery voltage going to the solenoid which keeps the starter spinning.
There is one other cause and that is the spring on the bendix spring is not retracting the pinion gear away from the flywheel.
What do you have to do to get the starter to stop spinning?
Scholman
If what you are saying is that the starter stays in mesh with the flywheel even after the engine has started up then the problem is in the solenoid. This does tow things it causes the battery to be connected to the starter but it also puts the starter pinion gear into contact with the flywheel. If for some reason the voltage from the battery keeps the solenoid engaged then the starter keeps spinning.
So yes it could be the key is keeping voltage going to the solenoid which you can test by taking the wire off of the starter and hooking a volt meter to the end. Then turn the key like you were trying to start the engine. Then let the key go and if you still have 12volts then the key is the problem.
But what I have found is that when you or who ever put the starter in, caused the "start" wire to come in contact with the run wire at the starter. So when you turn the key the starter cranks but then when you let go of the key the "run" wire keeps battery voltage going to the solenoid which keeps the starter spinning.
There is one other cause and that is the spring on the bendix spring is not retracting the pinion gear away from the flywheel.
What do you have to do to get the starter to stop spinning?
Scholman
yes i need to get it to stop spinning. I have the starter out and reaconected the wires to the starter. Im thinking its the ignition because if i turn the ignition on then ground the starter itl start spinning so its not draging on the fly wheel.
Solenoid
Doc here
imp:
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
You probably have the "I" and the "S" terminals reversed at the solenoid.
When you turn the key to "On" the coil voltage will back~feed through the secondary ignition wire , which if on the "S" terminal, would cause the starter to run anytime the key was on.
Happy and safe Holidays!
Docimp:
Doc here
imp: HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
You probably have the "I" and the "S" terminals reversed at the solenoid.
When you turn the key to "On" the coil voltage will back~feed through the secondary ignition wire , which if on the "S" terminal, would cause the starter to run anytime the key was on.
Happy and safe Holidays!
Doc
imp: STARTER
Doc here:imp:
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
I am unfamiliar with the Lancer start system, Is the Starter wiring a Plug into the solenoid?
MOST GM type starters have a 3 wire system connected by terminals independently at the solenoid,
Main battery cable and fuse link (big bolt) ,
The "I" terminal, usually the right terminal bolt and ring connector,
and the "S" terminal or left ring terminal and ring connector.
Ford Does it similar, but the solenoid is mounted on the fender well as opposed to right on top of the starter.
If so, did you CHANGE or REPAIR any electrical around the Coil?
The problem is you have power at the "S" terminal all the time when the key is on, If you remove that wire , It will stop cranking.
Have you tried this:
With the coil wire removed (so it won't start) put the car in any gear, and turn it on...If it cranks all the time It's not the ignition switch, Cuz that wire goes through the Neutral safety Switch FIRST. and it will not allow the starter to crank.
NEXT TRY:
At the coil power side, or Ignition resistor, remove and SEPARATE the wires, (there should be 2) and turn the key on, does it stop cranking? If so the "I" and "S" terminal ARE reversed.
And if that is so, Again I would look for the "S" and "I" terminals to be reversed, If not at the starter, at some point else in the harness.
Is it possible that whoever replaced the starter (if it has a plug) Got the mechanically correct starter motor, but the Electrically wrong solenoid (for another year / model) in, that year/model (wires reversed at the plug)? (IE on say 69 terminals were L="I" right="S", on say 70 L="s" right="I")
Look at the wiring diagram I attached , It's GM , but the system's are pretty much universal, and you'll see what I mean about the lockouts (NSW's) and Clutch over ride, and how the "S" and "I" terminals are supposed to be.
Hope it helps!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Docimp:
Doc here:
imp: HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
I am unfamiliar with the Lancer start system, Is the Starter wiring a Plug into the solenoid?
MOST GM type starters have a 3 wire system connected by terminals independently at the solenoid,
Main battery cable and fuse link (big bolt) ,
The "I" terminal, usually the right terminal bolt and ring connector,
and the "S" terminal or left ring terminal and ring connector.
Ford Does it similar, but the solenoid is mounted on the fender well as opposed to right on top of the starter.
If so, did you CHANGE or REPAIR any electrical around the Coil?
The problem is you have power at the "S" terminal all the time when the key is on, If you remove that wire , It will stop cranking.
Have you tried this:
With the coil wire removed (so it won't start) put the car in any gear, and turn it on...If it cranks all the time It's not the ignition switch, Cuz that wire goes through the Neutral safety Switch FIRST. and it will not allow the starter to crank.
NEXT TRY:
At the coil power side, or Ignition resistor, remove and SEPARATE the wires, (there should be 2) and turn the key on, does it stop cranking? If so the "I" and "S" terminal ARE reversed.
And if that is so, Again I would look for the "S" and "I" terminals to be reversed, If not at the starter, at some point else in the harness.
Is it possible that whoever replaced the starter (if it has a plug) Got the mechanically correct starter motor, but the Electrically wrong solenoid (for another year / model) in, that year/model (wires reversed at the plug)? (IE on say 69 terminals were L="I" right="S", on say 70 L="s" right="I")
Look at the wiring diagram I attached , It's GM , but the system's are pretty much universal, and you'll see what I mean about the lockouts (NSW's) and Clutch over ride, and how the "S" and "I" terminals are supposed to be.
Hope it helps!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Doc
imp: Attachments
Did you happen to do anything relating to the neutral safety switch (like installing a floor shifter)? I once crossed the wrong two wires at the NSS and the result was similar to yours...the starter would engage in the run position as well as the start position.
Starter
Doc hereimp:
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
OK, You got power at the Starter solenoid whether the car was in gear or not right?
If that is So, your short has to be PAST both the ignition and Neutral safety Switch(s) you can rule them out (unless some defeated the neutral safety switches at some point)
Since I've Never worked on a Lancer, Please describe to me, how many wires are on the Solenoid harness, and how many terminals are on the Solenoid itself. AND how do they hook up, by a plug or by bolt on terminals. This will help me greatly in figuring out your problem.
Since you said in your last post, It was NOT possible to reverse the wires, I have to assume it has a plug, male and female, right on the solenoid? Right or wrong?
When you disconnected the Coil POWER wire (Not the thick high tension one in the center of the coil)How many wires were there?, 2 , Correct?
If only one was there, and if you have a coil resistor, you need to follow the wire from the coil to the resistor.
Then the other side of the resistor, SHOULD have 2 wires...
One goes to the PRIMARY side of the Ignition...
(Run on the key switch)
The other goes to the SECONDARY side of the ignition ...
(From the "I" or "R" terminal on the Starter solenoid..)
IF the Wire from the SECONDARY side of the Ignition got put on The "S" Instead of The "I" or "R" terminal on the SOLENOID, It will CRANK the starter ANYTIME the key is turned on because power from the COIL is BACK-FEEDING down that line energizing the starter whenever the coil has power.
When you disconnected Those TWO wires..at the COIL or resistor, and separated them, Did it STILL crank all the time? It should have Stopped. And If it did, you have the "I" or "R" and the "S" backwards somehow...AT or before the Starter Solenoid. (SEE ATTACHED PHOTO)
Answer those questions, I can help you better..
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Docimp:
Photo: 1962 Lancer/Valiant
Solenoid...locations of S and I
Terminals.
Doc here
imp: HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
OK, You got power at the Starter solenoid whether the car was in gear or not right?
If that is So, your short has to be PAST both the ignition and Neutral safety Switch(s) you can rule them out (unless some defeated the neutral safety switches at some point)
Since I've Never worked on a Lancer, Please describe to me, how many wires are on the Solenoid harness, and how many terminals are on the Solenoid itself. AND how do they hook up, by a plug or by bolt on terminals. This will help me greatly in figuring out your problem.
Since you said in your last post, It was NOT possible to reverse the wires, I have to assume it has a plug, male and female, right on the solenoid? Right or wrong?
When you disconnected the Coil POWER wire (Not the thick high tension one in the center of the coil)How many wires were there?, 2 , Correct?
If only one was there, and if you have a coil resistor, you need to follow the wire from the coil to the resistor.
Then the other side of the resistor, SHOULD have 2 wires...
One goes to the PRIMARY side of the Ignition...
(Run on the key switch)
The other goes to the SECONDARY side of the ignition ...
(From the "I" or "R" terminal on the Starter solenoid..)
IF the Wire from the SECONDARY side of the Ignition got put on The "S" Instead of The "I" or "R" terminal on the SOLENOID, It will CRANK the starter ANYTIME the key is turned on because power from the COIL is BACK-FEEDING down that line energizing the starter whenever the coil has power.
When you disconnected Those TWO wires..at the COIL or resistor, and separated them, Did it STILL crank all the time? It should have Stopped. And If it did, you have the "I" or "R" and the "S" backwards somehow...AT or before the Starter Solenoid. (SEE ATTACHED PHOTO)
Answer those questions, I can help you better..
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Doc
imp: Photo: 1962 Lancer/Valiant
Solenoid...locations of S and I
Terminals.
Attachments
its a 80s lancer the solenoid is on the starter. it doesn't have a plug in type connector on it. i took off the power wires on the coil there where 2. im know now that the wire that is running to the starter is from the "I" in the ignition not the "S" so whoever put the starter in screwed up. thats the problem isn't it?
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