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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem that is driving me nuts. 1962 Chevy Biscayne, 283. The engine was starting fine until a couple of months ago. Then, the engine wasn't turning over so I replaced the starter with a rebuilt Delco and I replaced the battery. I cleaned the battery terminals and cable leads. After that, the car was starting fine when cold. After it is warmed up, it will not turn over unless it is boosted or if there is a battery charger hooked up to the battery. It has headers and a Moroso heat sheild around the starter. The mechanic at the corner is suggesting that the starter is being cooked by the headers. I tried a remote starter switch while the problem is present and that's not working either. How can i fix this? Do I need a heat sheild wrap around the starter? Is the battery too wimpy?(795 amps CCA, 1000 amps 32 degrees F) Help!
 

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Sounds like the mechanical advance plate in the distributer is froze up, giving you too much spark advance while starting. Check your timing. then pull your cap and make sure the advance weights are working.
 

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A DC shunt motor fitted with a starter. The starter serves for limiting the armature current during rotor stall. It consists of resistor segments that can be individually short-circuited. Whenever the armature current drops below a given constant and any of the segments is still active, one of the segments will be short-circuited
is your 3 or 4?
 

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I have a problem that is driving me nuts. 1962 Chevy Biscayne, 283. The engine was starting fine until a couple of months ago. Then, the engine wasn't turning over so I replaced the starter with a rebuilt Delco and I replaced the battery. I cleaned the battery terminals and cable leads. After that, the car was starting fine when cold. After it is warmed up, it will not turn over unless it is boosted or if there is a battery charger hooked up to the battery. It has headers and a Moroso heat sheild around the starter. The mechanic at the corner is suggesting that the starter is being cooked by the headers. I tried a remote starter switch while the problem is present and that's not working either. How can i fix this? Do I need a heat sheild wrap around the starter? Is the battery too wimpy?(795 amps CCA, 1000 amps 32 degrees F) Help!
Its common for rebuilt starters to be faulty and batteries need to be load tested to see if they can deliver what the sticker says they are capable of.

F-Bird has the best solution for replacing it, these modern permanent magnet starter are super powerful, use less current doing it and are smaller making them easier to remove and install and puts more distance between the starter and the exhaust so it stays cooler.

Wrap traps the block heat in the starter as much as it keeps the exhaust heat out. A shield between the exhaust and starter reflects the exhaust heat away from the starter while allowing air to circulate to provide some cooling. Simply buying one of those plumbers woven heat shields from the hardware store for use in protecting house structure when sweating copper pipe together and draping off a couple clamps so it hangs between the pipes and starter is a big help in keeping exhaust heat off the starter.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its common for rebuilt starters to be faulty and batteries need to be load tested to see if they can deliver what the sticker says they are capable of.

F-Bird has the best solution for replacing it, these modern permanent magnet starter are super powerful, use less current doing it and are smaller making them easier to remove and install and puts more distance between the starter and the exhaust so it stays cooler.

Wrap traps the block heat in the starter as much as it keeps the exhaust heat out. A shield between the exhaust and starter reflects the exhaust heat away from the starter while allowing air to circulate to provide some cooling. Simply buying one of those plumbers woven heat shields from the hardware store for use in protecting house structure when sweating copper pipe together and draping off a couple clamps so it hangs between the pipes and starter is a big help in keeping exhaust heat off the starter.

Bogie
Thanks for all the suggestions. I forgot to ask if header wrap would help also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All the other fixes are more effective. do these first.
When you do, you won't need header wrap.

You will get rid of the cause of the excessive heat.
If you want to get creative after installing the the strarter heat wrap and moroso heat shield. create your own secondary heat shield between the starter and header tubes that creates a air gap between them.
The shields should not contact the headers or starter case.

Header wrap tends to eat headers.
your money is better spent on the small gear reduction starter and the starter wrap
than header wrap.
correct the ignition timing. Retarded timing makes the headers real hot.
Your starter is cooked now anyways.
I installed the starter wrap, header wrap and old heat shield. I let the car idle for about 20 minutes, it got up to 210 degrees, shut it off. Car started fine after that. Thanks for the replies. Marty
 
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