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1965 Impala SS Convertible
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Discussion Starter #1
I am still having a problem with my 65 Impala.I replaced the Alternator and the voltage regulator and I am still having a problem with my battery not charging.I had the battery checked at Autozone and they said it was a good battery.The battery will charge while I am driving but as soon as I let the car sit overnight,i go to start it and there isnt enough juice to start the car.What is going on?I cant figure it out.If anyone knows what the problem could be,please respond.Thanks,

Eazy
 

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Not to sound too simplistic but...it sounds like your battery is charging okay but there is a draw on it that saps it while it is sitting. Pull the negative cable off of the battery and touch back to the post with the switch off. If it sparks you have something drawing current. it could be any number of things, but there is a short somewhere unless you have an accessory plugged in like a radar detector or something like that plugged into a cig lighter. Hope this helps.
 

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1965 Impala SS Convertible
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well I just went out and did that.I unplugged the NEg cable and touched it to the post and there is a small spark coming from it when I did that.I checked everything and I cant find anything that could be drawing power from the battery while it is off.What could be doing this?I checked the cd player that I got in there and its not coming from that.Thanks,

Eazy
 

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CD players do draw current even when not "on", to preserve your station presets and the clock if it has one. But that shouldn't draw enough current to drain your battery unless the battery is weak. I have a similar problem with my s-10. If I leave my radar detector plugged in and do not drive the truck for a couple of days, my battery is dead. It could be your batter y is charging okay but it is getting old and therefore weak so it can't hold that charge very long.
 

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Simple way to find out what circuit is giving you the problem. Pull each fuse out one at a time until the neg cable doesn't spark. You can also hook up a test light between the post on the battery and the cable. When you find the circuit that is drawing power then see what accessories are running off that fused system and trace it back from there. It makes it a whole lot easier to find the problem.
 

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Voltage regulator

Doc here :pimp:

Check your voltage regulator, If solid state (inside Alternator) it may have a diode leak, imposing a load on the battery while sitting.

If mechanical, it may be shorted or crowbared shut on the relay point, Draining the battery while sitting, or not working at all..

Check your lamp (if so equipped) for operation, some systems will not charge if the bulb is blown.

On either, Charge the battery up, then unhook the regulator and let it sit overnight.. If it starts right up, you have found the problem.

Doc :pimp:
 

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Just one of the guys
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Also check trunk light and glove box light. Make sure the switch is actually hitting where it should. You have to be really fast to sneak up on it. LOL!! Take a very small piece of modeling clay and put on top of the switch to see if it hits correctly or put a small drop of oil on the button top to see if it is actually making contact when the glovebox door and trunk is closed. Also take the battery and have it checked when it is low and not on a full charge. If you drive it there and they check it in the car it can show good when it is actually bad. But then again with the spark it shows you have a draw on current somewhere. If you have a clock that is operable in the car that will show a draw. Pull the fuse to it. Also pull the fuse to the radio if it is a newer digital radio as it will make a small draw depending on the hookup.

Kevin
 

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1965 Impala SS Convertible
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I got the battery checked while it was low on power and they said the battery was good.I replaced the alternator and the Voltage regulator and it is still doing it.I took my Neg cable off and touched it to the post and there is a spark while the car is not running.I unplugged my CD player and got it out of the car and the battery cable still sparks.I checked all the dome lights and I cant find what is drawing the power from the battery.I dont have a trunk light.It just started doing this recently.I been driving the car since May as my daily driver and I never had a problem with this before.If anyone has anymore ideas,please reply.Thanks,

Eazy
 

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Testing

Doc here:pimp:

You can test for draw by unhooking the Battery and place a DMM in line on the cable (between the Battery and the Cable) Set for highest range on AMPS.

Slowly Decrease the range scale until it almost pegs out or reads "ERR" Depending on your meter. That should be on the lowest scale, and read about 0.02 amps. if the draw is correct.

This will Be the combination of a clock, The memory presets on the Radio, and the static regulator draw. anything above is your drain.

Be sure you have the car door Closed while you do this, or the dome light fuse pulled.

In a 65 Imp, unless you installed a fuel infected <---misspell, but I like it so it stays..) Engine, you don't have a computer memory line to worry about.

If your draw is like 1 to 5 amps, start looking for things that run with no switched (Key) power...

Trunk lamp, Hood lamp, Glove box lamp, Jeeze, on my 80 Vette I had one mounted under the rear bumper, that lit the walk way as you walked behind it..that the timer was stuck on! didn't even know I had it until it started draining the battery...

ALSO power antenna's that are malfunctioning in the retract position will drain the battery.

With The meter in place, pull the fuses one by one until the drain goes away, then troubleshoot that circuit...and repair...or remove the draw.

If it's 0.02 amps or less, at the outset, Then it's time to troubleshoot the power and ground system to the Engine...just because the test equipment say's it's charging, dosen't mean the charge is reaching the battery...

Pull and CLEAN the battery terminals and posts. Make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals.

On the Continuity Scale, measure the resistance between the engine and the battery ground...REMEMBER: The mill sits on RUBBER mounts!

It should be 0.00 on the lowest scale...any more and you need to relocate your ground cable to your block near the starter.

After that, make another Cable with ring terminals on BOTH ends from 1/0 cable with 3/8 bolt holes (or you can buy one at the auto parts store) To pigtail off the block ground, and attach the other end at the frame.

Burnish off all the paint and use inside star washers and lock-washers at the attach points.

Check to be sure you have a ground wire on the Alternator or mount. If not, add one to the block ground!

Next check and clean the Positive cable on the Starter, and the fusible link hookup both on the solenoid. Be sure your good and tight there.

Clean and check the main battery cable at the Alternator. make sure it's not loose or frayed at the terminal.

If after that, you still have a drain, either you have missed a procedure, or have some shorting wires under the dash that may catch fire...You might consider going to an auto electric shop ... Even though their labor rates are outrageous!

Doc :pimp:
 

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Move It On Over!
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While you are chasing wires, you might want to check the condition of the wires running along the top of the left fender skirt too - when I rewired mine there was some minor chaffing going on because the original bundle clips were broken/missing. Anyway, that bundle of wire has the alternator and regulator wires running in it. It goes from the firewall fusebox connection then up between the inside fender and on top of the fender skirt, then comes out in front area behind the left headlights. That bundle also has the front lighting wires.
 

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im on a highway to hell
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the frayed harness is a good point i just bought a used harness from ebay and it was frayed righ near the bulkhead connector i'm not sure if it was damaged when it was taken out or not but its worth taking a look at.

i'm in agreement with everyone above, check your grounds and make sure their good and check your circuits one at a time.

another thing to look at is the wiring connections on any high draw items like the blower switch and the high blower relay those connectors on my harness were melted and that kind of damage is great for causing shorts and all sorts of problems. hope all this stuff helps you out.


rich.
 

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one other thing..

Doc here:pimp:

One other thing that most folks don't think about, and is usually self induced...

Does your horn work?

Did it stick at some point, and you pulled the horn wire?

If so the RELAY may be stuck on...DRAINING the battery overnight..but you wouldn't hear the horn...

Just a thought as I re~read the thread..

Doc :pimp:
 
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